Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
#31
Sweet just read this and realized I didn’t order the damn o rings for the coolant pipes.
these should be them
https://lucky8llc.com/collections/di...ail-o-ring-set
and I have sai :-(
these should be them
https://lucky8llc.com/collections/di...ail-o-ring-set
and I have sai :-(
#32
I completed the job yesterday. I needed to pick up a new plenum gasket since the old one was brittle at the edges. Valve covers were pretty gunky inside, so I cleaned them and locked the tiny screws which hold the shields with red locktite. I found it easier to place the gasket onto the head and then drop on valve cover on top. You can lift both a bit and reach with your fingers underneath to push the gasket into the valve cover edges. A bit of wiggling and it sits perfectly. The old gaskets were hard, had some small cracks and were brittle like cheap plastics. So it was time. AB says it is "regular maintenance" every one and and a half to two years. Isn't there something that lasts a lot longer?
#33
I completed the job yesterday. I needed to pick up a new plenum gasket since the old one was brittle at the edges. Valve covers were pretty gunky inside, so I cleaned them and locked the tiny screws which hold the shields with red locktite. I found it easier to place the gasket onto the head and then drop on valve cover on top. You can lift both a bit and reach with your fingers underneath to push the gasket into the valve cover edges. A bit of wiggling and it sits perfectly. The old gaskets were hard, had some small cracks and were brittle like cheap plastics. So it was time. AB says it is "regular maintenance" every one and and a half to two years. Isn't there something that lasts a lot longer?
#34
Searching
Let me see if I can remember the steps off the top of my head.
1:Remove intake
2:Remove vacuum hoses. Don't forget how they go back, colored stickers are helpful.
3:Unhook and move coolant lines/throttle body sensor/purge valve/valve cover breather hoses/whatever else I'm probably forgetting. You'll also need to Unhook the secondary air injection from the sides of the intake manifold and just pull them back so they're off of their bolts.
4:Begin unbolting intake manifold. There are the obvious bolts on top, then there is one down low in the front and one down low in the back. You will also have to unbolting the plate that the coils are mounted to on the back.
5:Now you're ready to pull the upper intake manifold/throttle body out in one piece. You will need a new plenum gasket when you reinstall.
6:Finally, you can now unbolt and yank out your valve covers. It's as simple as that.
While you're in there, be sure to replace your spark plugs, wires, and coils so you don't have to do all this again to get to your coils and plug wires. You'll have to check with the RAVE or someone here will have to tell you how much to torque what because I don't remember off the top of my head.
I don't imagine the oil pan will be too difficult, though I can't say for sure because I've never removed it.
Have your head gaskets ever been done? I mean, you're half way there by this point. It's just a matter of removing the front accessories, lower intake, and heads at that point, then having the heads machined before you reinstall. If it's never been done then I'd do that at the same time.
1:Remove intake
2:Remove vacuum hoses. Don't forget how they go back, colored stickers are helpful.
3:Unhook and move coolant lines/throttle body sensor/purge valve/valve cover breather hoses/whatever else I'm probably forgetting. You'll also need to Unhook the secondary air injection from the sides of the intake manifold and just pull them back so they're off of their bolts.
4:Begin unbolting intake manifold. There are the obvious bolts on top, then there is one down low in the front and one down low in the back. You will also have to unbolting the plate that the coils are mounted to on the back.
5:Now you're ready to pull the upper intake manifold/throttle body out in one piece. You will need a new plenum gasket when you reinstall.
6:Finally, you can now unbolt and yank out your valve covers. It's as simple as that.
While you're in there, be sure to replace your spark plugs, wires, and coils so you don't have to do all this again to get to your coils and plug wires. You'll have to check with the RAVE or someone here will have to tell you how much to torque what because I don't remember off the top of my head.
I don't imagine the oil pan will be too difficult, though I can't say for sure because I've never removed it.
Have your head gaskets ever been done? I mean, you're half way there by this point. It's just a matter of removing the front accessories, lower intake, and heads at that point, then having the heads machined before you reinstall. If it's never been done then I'd do that at the same time.
#35
2010 SC is a completely different beast. VC not as critical on that engine, but thermostat, rear crossover pipe, front crossover pipe, TB heater hose under the SC, and timing chain tensioners should all be changed pre-emptively. I believe you are in SC, suggest you contact Eurover in Greenville.
#36
2010 SC is a completely different beast. VC not as critical on that engine, but thermostat, rear crossover pipe, front crossover pipe, TB heater hose under the SC, and timing chain tensioners should all be changed pre-emptively. I believe you are in SC, suggest you contact Eurover in Greenville.
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