Valve cover Gasket and Water Pump job
#11
#13
Hi, I am in the middle of this job because I had a bearing going out on my power steering pump. Since I had the AC and the big power steering bracket pulled it made sense to do the valve cover gaskets which now have 30,000 miles and 5 years of hot Texas summer heat on them.
To all those who just say to try tightening them, that only works for a bit. The barrel washers keep you from squeezing the gaskets once the cover bolts are tight. Most rubber gaskets shrink, get brittle and crack with time and HEAT. I can see the cracks in mine where the oil is leaking out. By the way, LR recommends replacing the 8 bolts when you do the gaskets because the new ones come with locktite on them. You can use the same ones but a bit of locktite helps keep them from vibrating loose.
Here is another tip: that passenger side cover work area is pretty cramped what with wires and hoses and that big alternator in front. Since I had my AC off and the PS bracket I just went ahead and removed the alternator and it's mounting bracket. 2 bolts for the alternator and the 2 wires is easy to do and the bracket has 4 or 5 bolts and slides up from behind the water hose and pipe, there is not a stud like on the other side. Moving that bracket makes it much easier to R&R the covers and gives you a chance to power wash the front of the engine if you have a lot of dirt and oil build up. Also, it doesn't take a second to remove the multiplugs on the right hand of the injectors on the fuel rail. It beat fighting the wires to get the cover in and out.
Yes, you could put a smear of RTV cement, probably would help best on the underside where the gasket meets the top rim of the head. The barrel washers need to go on so you don't over compress the gasket. Not sure where you saw 10ftlbs, the RAVE says a 2 stage tightening, first torque to 2.5 ft lbs, wait a few minutes and torque to 6 ft lbs.
Didn't see you mention the oil seperator on that side but it's worth replacing it and the hoses if they are deteriorated. And if you decide to remove the throttle body from the upper plenum you might as well clean the gunk on the inside and use a new gasket when you seal it up. Check your heater plate for leaks and R&R that as well if you see any.
To all those who just say to try tightening them, that only works for a bit. The barrel washers keep you from squeezing the gaskets once the cover bolts are tight. Most rubber gaskets shrink, get brittle and crack with time and HEAT. I can see the cracks in mine where the oil is leaking out. By the way, LR recommends replacing the 8 bolts when you do the gaskets because the new ones come with locktite on them. You can use the same ones but a bit of locktite helps keep them from vibrating loose.
Here is another tip: that passenger side cover work area is pretty cramped what with wires and hoses and that big alternator in front. Since I had my AC off and the PS bracket I just went ahead and removed the alternator and it's mounting bracket. 2 bolts for the alternator and the 2 wires is easy to do and the bracket has 4 or 5 bolts and slides up from behind the water hose and pipe, there is not a stud like on the other side. Moving that bracket makes it much easier to R&R the covers and gives you a chance to power wash the front of the engine if you have a lot of dirt and oil build up. Also, it doesn't take a second to remove the multiplugs on the right hand of the injectors on the fuel rail. It beat fighting the wires to get the cover in and out.
Yes, you could put a smear of RTV cement, probably would help best on the underside where the gasket meets the top rim of the head. The barrel washers need to go on so you don't over compress the gasket. Not sure where you saw 10ftlbs, the RAVE says a 2 stage tightening, first torque to 2.5 ft lbs, wait a few minutes and torque to 6 ft lbs.
Didn't see you mention the oil seperator on that side but it's worth replacing it and the hoses if they are deteriorated. And if you decide to remove the throttle body from the upper plenum you might as well clean the gunk on the inside and use a new gasket when you seal it up. Check your heater plate for leaks and R&R that as well if you see any.
#14
Oh, I forgot. I found a 36mm fan wrench on ebay for under $20. But if your fan has never been removed good luck at just tapping it with a mallet. Every time I tapped the water pump pulley just turned. I ended up sticking a very large flat blade screwdriver down on the front of the water pump pulley and wedged it between one of the 10mm bolts and the center of the shaft that sticks out. It held it in place while I hit the wrench and the fan came off.
#15
I used Indian Head shellac on my water pump gasket.
Might want to get a new heater pipe o-ring O RING HEATER PIPE DISCOVERY II, 38A R/R, RND354, ERR6434 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts in case yours looks weird after removing that pipe. The universal o-rings sold in auto parts stores look close, but don't seal. I thought my intake or head gasket had failed when I started mine after using a "closely sized" o-ring. Coolant was leaking out from that connection and running down the valley to the back of the engine.
Might want to get a new heater pipe o-ring O RING HEATER PIPE DISCOVERY II, 38A R/R, RND354, ERR6434 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts in case yours looks weird after removing that pipe. The universal o-rings sold in auto parts stores look close, but don't seal. I thought my intake or head gasket had failed when I started mine after using a "closely sized" o-ring. Coolant was leaking out from that connection and running down the valley to the back of the engine.
#16
You have two heater hoses/pipes coming from the heater core on the firewall on the passenger side. They run towards the front of the engine. One turns down and connects to the hose coming off he water pump with a clamp. The other pipe crosses over the passenger valve cover and goes into the intake manifold. You will need to remove that pipe from the intake manifold to get the valve cover off. You will see the o-ring at the end of the pipe once pulled from the intake.
#17
You have two heater hoses/pipes coming from the heater core on the firewall on the passenger side. They run towards the front of the engine. One turns down and connects to the hose coming off he water pump with a clamp. The other pipe crosses over the passenger valve cover and goes into the intake manifold. You will need to remove that pipe from the intake manifold to get the valve cover off. You will see the o-ring at the end of the pipe once pulled from the intake.
Just adding to what LordMorpheus said, there is a bolt on a flange where the pipe meets the intake. If memory serves that pipe comes out best by gently twisting it back and forth while pulling it out.
#18
I found that. I followed BA video and did not have to take that out. I was able to slide in and out but it was very tight. I wished I di little more research before. But regardless I go it done lets hope nothing leaks. Taking out of Water pump gasket was tough. I had to use a soft grinder kit from HF. worked well, let's hope I have not made any damages to the surface.
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
#19
Found Oil in the front
Folks,
I for got to mention and take pictures.
There were bunch of Oil behind the waterpump. also Oil on the fan and surrounding areas. I am hoping this from Valve cover gasket. I cleaned everything with chemical and pressure washer. I guess I have to monitor now where this oil was coming from. Hope it's not the front seal.
Anyone had dones a front seal job? Just getting some ideas. It will have to wait for awhile. I am tired of working on this all weekend. Almost done. Just need to put the Intake back and start to flush.
I for got to mention and take pictures.
There were bunch of Oil behind the waterpump. also Oil on the fan and surrounding areas. I am hoping this from Valve cover gasket. I cleaned everything with chemical and pressure washer. I guess I have to monitor now where this oil was coming from. Hope it's not the front seal.
Anyone had dones a front seal job? Just getting some ideas. It will have to wait for awhile. I am tired of working on this all weekend. Almost done. Just need to put the Intake back and start to flush.