______________________________
Didn't know that I am a "by the book" kind of guy, but maybe I am. I simply do it the way I learned to do it a good long time ago. I know a lot of guys use copper cote on their head gaskets, but have not known anyone to use hylomar or anything else on them. Personally, I could live with use of the copper cote, but not the hylomar, but why should I? I have rebuilt tons of engines, replaced even more heads, after good head rebuilds by auto machine shops, valves ground, valve guides replaced, etc., including a lot of various versions of the Rover V8, but never once did I resort to coating head gaskets with anything, and never once did I have a failed head gasket issue after I completed it. How can you argue with that? I may not always be right, but I will always be opinionated---LOL.

 

Now that I can relate to,

 

I used copper spray on the head gaskets. I've had a lot of success with it.

Just remember to use a high quality RTV like hylomar on the valley pan gasket around the water jackets. They are prone to leakage.

 

Well, runs good, at least. Has exhaust leak at the union of the man/down pipe which is pretty bad so need to fix that before I can tell anything more. One thing though, that ****ling noise is still there which still has me worried. Obviously need to fix the exhaust, but the noise is only audible on acceleration, dead quiet at idle, and much reduced or absent when settles at higher rpm... would like to think it's the exhaust playing games with my head, but it does sound mechanical to me, never heard anything quite like it. Would anyone like to hazzard a guess at this point? If the exhaust doesn't fix it I will have to see if I can locate my stethescope which I haven't seen in years and have no idea where it is lol. (the auto editor is extremely paranoid btw).

 

Sounds kinda like detonation/pinging?

 

If you cannot find your stethoscope... cup your hand around the end of a very long screwdriver. Press your ear up to your hand. Works almost as well. Just be very careful where you rest that screwdriver. This is how I figured out what pullys where bad on the front of the engine.

 

Sounds kinda like detonation/pinging?

probably not that your engine is equip with knock sensors

 

So.. the noise was exhaust but it's pressurizing like crazy (and huffing steam), so I've got the crack, which we knew I guess. Plan B, not sure what that is yet, I'll see if pick n' pull has a wrecked Disco.

 

The only problem with that is most junkyards pull the engines. You will have little clue what you are buying. And I personally wouldn't trust what they tell you about said engine.

 

Well I wasn't going to quit without at least trying the magic sludge. So when I was flushing the system I realized I hadn't burped it well enough last time which was part of my problem, so in the process of flushing I apparently got the air out and it settled down quite a bit, just a bubble once in a while and a slight bit of steam. Sooo, I decided to try the CarGo Seal-up over the Irontite because I heard no reports of radiator replacement after use, unlike the Irontite. So I plunked it in there and let it idle for 20min with heater core blocked off and with the air on to put a little extra load on it, it showed no sight of heating up or over pressurizing so I decided to live dangerously and went out and tested the 4wd out in the sand, basically gave it a work out for an hour and a half, got back home and all steam gone and no more bubbles. Just drained it to let it sit for the 12hrs indicated and flushed the radiator for good measure. And get this... not one warning light on lol. I'm pleased, will see how it goes. Btw, the thing about the self serve auto wreckers around here is they touch nothing. So, if a motor looks good and the car is smashed, your chances are good.