Viscous Fan Working?
#12
02-03-2014, 08:04 PM
that last post sounds like air pressurization in the system. ie. more exhaust from rpm driving , more exhaust gas into the cooling system from leak 
the only other elements would be the stat and it is a bypass system, so no change in cabin heat there. and the pump, but it is working at idle.
if it were me, I'd be putting the exhaust gas in coolant test on it
but really wierd that you have no other air in the system symptoms, otherwise.
I hope I am overlooking something and someone more knowledgeable will chime in with a solution.
the only other elements would be the stat and it is a bypass system, so no change in cabin heat there. and the pump, but it is working at idle.if it were me, I'd be putting the exhaust gas in coolant test on it
but really wierd that you have no other air in the system symptoms, otherwise.
I hope I am overlooking something and someone more knowledgeable will chime in with a solution.
#13
02-03-2014, 08:18 PM
Super Moderator
Parts throwing can begin.
You could have a clogged radiator. Will show up as lower rows much cooler than upper rows, by 10F or more. Nissens from Rock Auto for about $200.
You could have a bad thermostat with crud broken loose from flushing in it. Install a 180F soft spring version. Land Rover, not Motobad.
You could have HG issues.
You could have fan clutch issues but they don't count at 50-60 mph. Forward motion of truck swamps fan motion.
You could have a radiator full of mud chiggerz between the fins and you can wash it out.
You could be overheating sooner than you think. Factory gauge is way to slow to respond. Get a scanner than can display live data, like Ultra Gauge. Then you can see how hot you get and how fast.
You could have a cracked block or head.
You could have a clogged radiator. Will show up as lower rows much cooler than upper rows, by 10F or more. Nissens from Rock Auto for about $200.
You could have a bad thermostat with crud broken loose from flushing in it. Install a 180F soft spring version. Land Rover, not Motobad.
You could have HG issues.
You could have fan clutch issues but they don't count at 50-60 mph. Forward motion of truck swamps fan motion.
You could have a radiator full of mud chiggerz between the fins and you can wash it out.
You could be overheating sooner than you think. Factory gauge is way to slow to respond. Get a scanner than can display live data, like Ultra Gauge. Then you can see how hot you get and how fast.
You could have a cracked block or head.
#15
02-03-2014, 10:12 PM
Ill shoot the lower and upper rad with an IR temp gun.
By the way, I have an OBDII bluetooth scan tool Using and android app call Torque to read internal temps and PIDS. It will also read DCTS and clear them.
I have never trusted the oem temp gauge.
#16
02-04-2014, 12:20 AM
Recovery Vehicle
Crazy question from a somewhat cooling system greenhorn. I lost coolant at the water pump at the weep hole indicating the bearings were shot, so I replaced the water pump a couple years ago, and that took care of things. Can the water pump just stop rotating somehow, and the coolant never circulate, and the coolant around the engine just gets hotter, and hotter? I know if may not apply here, but if a water pump just stops rotating the wheel that moves the coolant, if it somehow were to break off the shaft that connects to the pulley or something and just sits there. Is this possible, and what symptoms would there be? Trying to help my son troubleshoot his car that is overheating, so was wondering about this. I needed a good reason to buy an IR thermometer, so this may be the time to use it on his car, and check my rover original radiator to see what readings I get as well.
#17
02-10-2014, 08:05 PM
Overlanding
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