First warm weather we have had tried to flip on the A/C but nothing but warm/hot air. Read through the RAVE description of the A/C operation and tried a few tests.

1. When I flip on the HVAC controls and put the temp to low (below the EXT temp which was 69F) the engine RPM increases ~200 RPM, so I assume the compressor is kicking on.
2. I tried to feel the A/C coolant lines but they both feel warm/hot. I would expect one of them to be cold, correct?
3. The small electric fan behind the grill seems frozen will not spin at all. It seems this should always be going unless the car is going a certain speed or the temp is above 88F.
4. The HVAC head unit did not beep to indicate any error codes nor where any displayed.


I have already cleaned out the internal cabin temp sensor over the winter when the wife complained it was blowing cold air into the cabin, that seemed to fix the heating issue.

Anything else I should try? Next stop an A/C shop to check the coolant pressure?

As always thanks for reading and any help!

 

Low refrigerant charge. Compressor won't cycle. both lines hot.

 

is the econ button push in?

 

Ha, nope, checked that. If it where only that easy

 

3. if you condenser fan is frozen you will want to be replacing that soon than later.

 

I'm a big believer in charging your own ac. Buy a big can of r-134 that includes the connection hose (you might need two,but start with one to figure if you have a slow or fast leak) and add it to the sytem while the truck is started, ac is on, and rpm is held above idle. There're two ports on the ac lines, but the hose on the can will only fit on one. Turn the can side down while adding freon.

I'm sure you could google it for better directions with pictures.

I did this to my disco when I got it 6 mos ago and it's still blowing cold. It may not be as cold as if a shop did it, but it cost $25. If it doesn't work or leaks back out, you lost a $25 gamble, and you take it to the shop. That said, I've done it to 4 or 5 vehicles and never had to take one to the shop.

 

I'm a big believe in buying a set of gauges if you want to DIY. Putting the "freon" can is a pan of warm water speeds things along, inverting it puts liquid into the system, which may not be good for the compressor in certain conditions. If system has leaked most of the refrigerant out, it may respond to re-charge. But if air has moved into the system, then the drier will need to be replaced and the whole system vacuumed down before recharge. It is possible to overchage a system, which will cause more damage. Follow directions on equipment.

 

never "Turn the can side down while adding Freon" because that will add liquid refrigerant into the low pressure side and it can bust up the valves in your compressor.

If you have no formal training with handling refrigerant you should not handle it.

Pay some AC shop the $79.00 to check it, if it needs more than a couple of oz.
then you have a leak. Have them find the leak , pull a vacuum and recharge the system.

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. I will be steering clear the DIY charge system, I know those usually carry a sealant as well with them and rather not introduce another issue. I have a lead on a used fan as the new ones are crazy expensive. It looks like a simple fix other than the upper right hand screw which is blocked by the body, so I'll have to figure that out. Would the correct procedure be to remove the radiator to swap that fan. The RAVE just seemed to indicate you swap it out only removing those thin bars.

 

no; the radiator stays, you pull the grill and lights and go at it from the front.
and you can go after market also, I replaced mine with two 12inch 1100 cfm fans