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Water Leak Upper A-pillar (D2)

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  #11  
Old 01-14-2010, 01:02 PM
yloDiscoII's Avatar
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And I couldn't find the TSB without having to pay for it...
 
  #12  
Old 01-14-2010, 06:03 PM
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Open the door and remove 2 black platic plugs. It should pry off from there. It is held on w/ 2 tension clips. Im sorry I cant find the TSB, it was on my old hard drive. I recall finding it on this site.
 
  #13  
Old 01-14-2010, 06:36 PM
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No worries, thanks for looking. I'll keep on searching, hopefully I'll have time to tackle it this weekend.
 
  #14  
Old 06-15-2018, 02:40 PM
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So ... nine years later and I'm having this issue - anyone have a successful resolution? Thanks! TDC
 
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  #15  
Old 06-17-2018, 10:54 AM
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Rovers demand pro-active leak maintenance. Sorry for the lack of pictures, can provide on demand. The TSB is attached at the bottom.

The procedure below will address 99% of leaks in cars w/o sunroofs. You will seal the most common areas where water gets in: cracks in a-pillar-to-body welds, cracks in windshield cowling that allow water to get into the cabin air intake, cracks in the metal gutters, and potential leaks through the weather strip from the windshield. While you're there, I recommend replacing other parts, like windshield wiper motor. Basically, the procedure is the same as described in the attached TSB with some modifications.

Parts needed:
- A pillar trim covers, https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/DCB500060PMAGK
- A new window cowling (if yours has cracks) https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/JAK000010PMAG

Prep work:
1. Remove A-pillar trims on both sides
2. Remove the windshield cowling
3. Remove drip finishers from both sides--these are small plastic parts that go on top of the A-pillar covers.

Repair:
1. Fill in the cracks where A-pillar meets the roof on both sides; see the TSB
2. Fill in the any cracks in the gutters where drip finishers go; see the TSB
3. Clean the space covered by the windshield cowling to ensure that water can flow freely to each side of the car
4. Put a bead of sealant around the cabin air intake, fasten the bolts if required so that water does not drip into the interior
5. If your car is old, replace the windshield wiper motor while doing all of this
6. Clean the top weather strip that seals the windshield window to the body
7. Put a bead of sealant on top of the strip you cleaned in the previous step

Finish:
1. Put the windshield cowling back
2. Put the a-pillars + gutter finishers back
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
water_ingress_to_headliner.pdf (170.7 KB, 3677 views)

Last edited by mr. choodles; 06-17-2018 at 11:00 AM.
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  #16  
Old 06-19-2018, 08:59 AM
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Thanks!! I'll give this a go!
 
  #17  
Old 07-26-2018, 09:54 PM
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How likely is refitting the original trim covers with breaking anything? At $117 each I'd rather not have to buy another set while sealing up the leaks in the roof joints. I watched the video (thanks for posting it) and Doug is manhandling them pretty well when taking them off and then putting new ones back on. Is it reasonable to assume that I can get my old ones off and back on without them breaking? Also, do the trim clips come back off the body and get reattached to the cover before trying to reinstall the cover? I noticed he removed the old clips and tossed them because he was fitting a new cover with new clips already attached to it. Thanks in advance.
 
  #18  
Old 07-27-2018, 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ahab
At $117 each I'd rather not have to buy another set while sealing up the leaks in the roof joints.
There is a ebay seller with fiberglass A-pillar sets for $108+shipping without the clips but they have double sided tape.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover-...EAAOxy4dNS3ik5
 
  #19  
Old 07-27-2018, 07:35 AM
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That's good info, thanks. I presume this means the answer to my question is no...
 
  #20  
Old 07-27-2018, 08:08 AM
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from my experience... I've tried to remove a-pillers from junked Discos but I could never get them off without one the clips breaking away.
 


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