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Water pump failed, knocked out the fan and serp belt. What else to replace???

Old Aug 31, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
The Imperial (made by Hayden) 215158 is an extreme clutch, about $56 at Advance Auto and others. Pix shows it on right, stock on left, staggered blade Disco 1 fan.
Does this work in a Disco II? Or, is this just a DI replacement part?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #22  
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Maybe. D1 and D2 have same water pump. Hayden makes the fan clutch units, and they have a model 2992 that is for 05 - 02 Rovers with 4.0 engines. Orielly Autoparts and others handle it. Extreme duty clutch.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 09:44 PM
  #23  
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Is the picture you posted on this thread your truck? DI, right? I'm assuming it worked for you... I would love to find a cheaper fan clutch that is as durable or better and a direct bolt on replacement. Does anybody else know for sure about this? Please let me know if this will work for me and what is the exact part # for an '03 DII. Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 11:54 PM
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Yes that is my D1, aka "Frankenstein", brought back to life with parts from the dead ones. That is an Imperial 215158 clutch that is sold at many places, and one model it fits is the Chevy S10 with 4.3 liter engine.

However, Hayden/Imperial have announced on their web site a clutch for Rover 4.0 and 4.6 engines 02 - 95, it is mentioned in a post on this thread. An 03 has a 4.6 liter I think, which is a different engine.

Whle I liked the airflow from the 215158, I could not get mine to drop out of "high speed" operation. Swapped it for a second one, same problem. Tested with a photo tachometer, so I knew that pulley speed and fan speed were the same, not the 20-30% claimed by Imperial's spec sheets. Now to be fair, this clutch is not designed for the Rover, it just happens to fit. The way the clutches work is two discs are mated to each other with a series of concentric grooves, and a viscous liquid is placed in those grooves. So for a particular engine type, and fan capacity, the factory does not have a lot of things they can change. Either the number and spacing of the grooves, and/or the quantity and viscosity of the fluid, or the temperature of the valve that allows the fluid to circulate. While the 215158 may fit the Rover, it may not be matched to it. I think the new 2991 Hayden model may be a better performer, but I have not gotten my hands on one yet.

On the D1 all you have to do is enlarge the fan bolt holes slightly with a drill.

Surely someone with a later model D2 has done the modification and might care to comment.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 09:05 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by longjon76
flanker, I do all of my own work as my experience with wrenches in KC has been uniformly negative. That said, there are numerous import shops in KC and a few that (I've heard) aren't afraid of Discos. Of course, there are two dealers here in the city. If money isn't an issue, you could go to them as I've heard that their Disco mechanics are actually competent... just VERY proud of their work.

All that said, if you decide to do this on your own, I have the RAVE and would be more than happy to lend a hand as I am still trying to learn everything that I can about my Disco.
I've found one shop in Mission who's Rover tech is a former dealership guy. I'll let you know how she turns out, and pm you the name if all goes well.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 09:50 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Well that is several Ben Franklins to the good... Fan clutch could have become compromised by water pump wiggling for extended period, and could go next.
Ha, yes several....
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 02:03 AM
  #27  
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DII running at 150F all day long... Up-grading the cooling system!!! Discovery II Cooling system up-grade #1 - YouTube
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 04:29 AM
  #28  
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Well, I'm not sure I would call that an upgrade. The cooling system needs to keep engine at a good temperature for combustion byproducts to be reduced, and various fluids to be within their correct operating range.

As part of some testing I was doing on my D1, I removed the thermostat and ran the truck down the highway. At 50 mph on an 80 degree day my scanner temp was 134-138, 142-144 with AC on. So your temp is pretty close to no stat at all, the po'boy's alternative cooling repair.

What temp rating thermostat did you end up with? What other changes were made? MPG?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 05:51 AM
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Lol.. U right, this is just a pre-runn w/out a t/state. I was experimenting. Now im going with a 160F t/stat in line and see what the results are..... Right now w/out the T/state the MPG went down from 14mpg to like 13mpg, This is base an a 30 mile trip at 45mph... Obviously its bcz theres no t/state. But once I get the 160F t/state I will post some info..... If 160F still to could I get a 180F t/state. !!!
 
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 05:58 AM
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I can't just keep driving with my temp at 215F and 220F or more..... It drive me crazy. That's why im doing this modification, So I can bring the temp down to 175 or 180 but no in the 200s.. 200f it's just scary and at a trafic light it goes up to 215, 217, 220 .. So nooooo more.. Im bringing that temp down for self peace!
 
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