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Water pump failed, knocked out the fan and serp belt. What else to replace???

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  #31  
Old 09-21-2011, 06:59 AM
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Well, the stat change may not fix the high temp problem. It will, if stat was sticking. But if stat is normal, that 160 or 180 will be fully open by the time you get to 215 or 220, and you would still get there, just may be a little longer time to reach it. If stat is staying open, water does not spend enough time in radiator to cool off. Your radiator is not one that does well with rod out, but it may respond to flushing out. If you are high temp at 45 mph, the radiator may not be transferring as much heat dus to scale build up, mud clogging the fins, etc. I changed my fan clutch and increased air flow (six inch clutch, reverse direction, late 90's - early 2000's Chevy / GMC, fits Rover water pump and Rover fan has to have mounting holes drilled out a little), but that can have an mpg penalty. Another thing to try is "water wetter" which will drop temps slightly. I am currently running a 180 stat, the 160 was staying in the 180 range most of the time, but that could be just me. Now that fall temps are creeping in a little less of an issue.

Of course, it could be an early sign of cracked block or head gasket - heat that just won't go away. Ouch.

See post 25 in this one for pix of Chevy HD clutch and fan https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...hlight=whupped
 
  #32  
Old 09-21-2011, 10:22 PM
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  #33  
Old 09-22-2011, 06:12 AM
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Yeah I know What U said. But The problem here with my rover was a defected t/state from atlantic british that took me a while to figure that out.... I replace the old one bcz it was just too old but never had an issue with high temp at all.. Then when I get the new one from atlantic british, the high temp start to get me in trafic light and if I was driving too slow.... Im glad that I always got my scaner hook up to the obd2 port LOL I love to monitor everything all the time LOL Im a freak with it comes to cars....... So let me ask u something here..... Now that i got the truck runnig at 160F 165F stable. Also need to mention that I had an electric fan with adjustable tempeture and plus the original fan clucth... The question comes here. The original fan seems to be there doing nothing since the fan cluth kick in around 206F.... U think i may be able to get rid of the fan cluth and stik with electric? I may do that, the only thing stoping me right now is that I only got one electri fan and is about 12" wich is too small I think for the radiator. I drive the truck with out the fan cluth before the t/state up-grade and it seems to be fine on high ways but temp rise in trafic. The power u get with out the fan cluth is awesome!!! U feel the truck light and with alot more trotte response not to mantion an increase in fuel economy!!!!! But Now with the 160F t/state and the electric fan I may be able to eliminate the fan cluth for good!! What u think? Any one here that u know is running electric fans on a disco 2 with the t/state up-grade?
 
  #34  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:03 AM
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It is an easy experiment to try. But don't experiment on a 300 mile trip. Also, there are different fan clutches you can get that will incrase air flow, at some expense of mpg. 6 inch, reverse direction, fit 1998 - 2000 and nearby Chevy & GMC - I got one and the fan and trimmed the larger fan to fit, increase air flow 50% over stock.

On the other hand, all electric takes some HP load off, and reduces water pump wear and tear.
 
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