after I put my block back in ive had a lot of problems getting this truck back up and running since. truck runs fine but...
went to go to get a smaog check done today and the tech didnt want to test it cause he said 1. the truck isint ready yet and 2 there is a stored code of P0440. he said it wouldnt pass anyway. ive been driving this thing around for 2 days trying to get it "ready" i think most of my parts have been sitting for a year+ so i got some things bad and mixed up etc..
1. p0440 = the purge valve am i correct?
2. ive read that using the hyndai purge valve is better?
these last 2 are the weird ones.
3. ive noticed my oil cap gets real tight on the threads and today I checked the oil again and found a lot of condensation inside cap? "almost dripping" so i put some grease on threads hoping to prevent it from sticking again. drove around a little got the car hot and i cant get the cap off now. tommorow if it dont turn im gonna put a wrench on it.
whats going on?
4. this one scares me... i missing i think a cup of water a day, im not leaking anywhere that ive noticed, my oil lvl is stable but ive noticed condensation on the stick as well.
ive done 2 oil changes in the past 2 weeks, first one i dumped after break in because engine was just rebuilt top to bottom and i wanted to flush everything out. now im thinking i should do another to check for water?
im not sure if water is getting in oil but i dont like the condensation a bit, and the oil cap is a bit funny.
i dont have any antifreeze in there yet because im waiting on a 180 tstat and heater core hoses that i ordered and was planning to change out then put in antifreeze.
5. am i boiling my water over?
6. is the purge valve causing the condensation or my water loss?
ill go buy the purge valve tommorow from hyndai do i have to reset the computer again? didnt want to because i only got evap blinking now, besides that its ready for smog. but if i have to then i have to.

sorry for the many many question but ive dumped a lot of $ in this truck recently and im trying to get it up and running.

thanks again
Jack

 

1. See attached from RAVE, you may want your own copy.
2. Don't have opinion
3. Head gasket or cracked block or PCV system really blocked
4. See #3
5. If no antifreeze, and no pressure cap on coolant system, will boil at 212F. OBDII scanner will indicate digital temps, the stock gauge will show normal for a very wide range (it points at the middle until well into the overheated range). If pressure cap is there AND you are holding pressure, cap alone at say 15 PSI should raise boiling point to 212 plus another 45 (roughly 3 degrees F for every 1 PSI). BUt if you are getting even to 220 there's trouble.
6. Don't think so, if stuck open will make you run rich and maybe misfire.
7. You should review your PCV vent system, if plugged will make pressure vent in unusual ways. See attached from RAVE, the place to clean is the oil separator on the passenger side valve cover. Might also explain a high vacuum on the valve covers and holding the oil fill cap on, plus this is how the engine is vented, so oil fumes, and steam from coolant leaks during previous problems or assembly might need a way out. Valley pan gasket could also be leaking. Air is vacced into plenum from passenger side most of the time. If hose squeezed off on driver side, not good.

You may want to drain oil to inspect. IF OK pour back in. If milky, not so good.


Tools you may want to have:

Your own scanner that can read codes, live data, and reset codes.
Copy of RAVE.
Chemical test for exhaust gas bubbles in coolant (about $50), which makes maybe 15 tests. BTW - any gurgle noises under dash (always an undesired sound)?

 

Hey buzz thx for reply, for now i want to rule out the cracked block as i trust and have used the machinest who rebuilt it for me. But
I did notice grey silicone was used everywhere but as i said i have no " external leaks that i can see.
According to diagrams you posted im not sure if my pcv system is plumed right, but i will check this when i get home.
In the first drawing it talks about a black plastic hose, and i so have one hanging in the engine compartment that i didnt know what to do with, that little 1.5 inch rubber hose with clamps i think gave it away, i will check this at home too.
Ill take some pictures of pluming and post later.
What do you mesn by this?
the place to clean is the oil separator on the passenger side valve cover
My valve covers are spotless on the inside, was all bead blasted and cleaned by same machinest. Are you saying take the gromet or plastic fitting off valve cover and clean?

As for the water leak im confident its somewhere else "crosses fingers" hes good but i guess can never know, ill ask him today. Valley pan had grey silicone, oil pan had grey silicone and front cover had grey silicone, this is how i recieved the block back and left it alone cause didnt see any leaks.

I will update later after work, thx again.
Jack

 

Update.
I bought the purge valve, ill replace it before i do anything just to get that out the way.
I will be dumping the oil to see what comes out, i left it at home and cold so if there is water in there it will be the first thing to come out at is should be settled on the bottom.
Depending on what i find "crosses fingers" ill do a presure test on the coolant system.
15 lbs is ok?
Do i need to do anything to prep? Im thinking about eliminating the overflow jug and just pressurize the small line going to radiator? Forget about the one going to throttle body? Cap it off?
Thanks.

 

Ok dumped a little oil 1/2 a cup or so. No water to be seen, oil looks new and suprisingly oil cap came off easy today. Car was cold and sitting since yesterday.
So if im guessing right, this purge valve thing is doing a lot. Dumping fumes into my engine while hot or running? It seriously looked like condensation yesterday. But again im missing 1/2 a cup of water. I guess pressure test will reveal?

 

The hose from the passenger side valve cover to the intake comes from a small oil separator in the cover. May have to remove hose and spary in some carb cleaner. If companion hose on throttle body side was clogged, you would have extra vacuum inside the valve covers and the internal parts of the engine (valley and oil pan).

It's not the valve covers that are dirty. Pressure test good idea.