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Welding on your Rigs for the QT Diff Guard Intall

Old Jul 5, 2011 | 12:43 PM
  #1  
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Default Welding on your Rigs for the QT Diff Guard Intall

Hello All,
I just ordered a pair of F/R QT Diff guards from UK. I know the front bolts on and then has tabs that need to be tack welded to the Pumpkin. What are the best precautions to take when welding so I dont fry the electronics on my Rover. I was thinking the following.

  • Disconnect the battery
  • Maybe unplug the ECM(I know its behind the glove box but have not ventured to see it in person yet
  • Maybe disconnect the terminals on the under hood fuse panel.
I'm open to suggestions to those have welded successfully.
 

Last edited by bosshogt; Jul 5, 2011 at 01:02 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 01:14 PM
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Mine has been on the front diff on my truck for more than 6 months now and has survived quite a few hits while offroad. I've never bothered to weld it on and probably never will. After speaking to several other guys with the QT front diff guards, I found that a lot of people don't weld it on.

In fact, the vendor I got it from (who I will not incriminate here ) even said that the tabs are really there to keep it from rattling around, and that they don't provide much real support.

Some advice (unrelated to the tabs)...

When you go to install the diff guards clean out the holes in the bottoms of the diffs and run a tap up in them to make sure the threads are thoroughly cleaned up. Seems obvious, but I was a slow learner, so I figured I'd mention it.

More importantly, also double check the bolts QT supplies for the holes on the underside of the diff. The ones I received were the wrong size. (The correct size is m10x1.25x25mm Gr10.9.) As you might have seen (https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ight=bolt+size) I made a mess by snapping off a grade 8 bolt in my diff when I assumed QT sent the right parts...

Just to close the circle and go back to your original question though, I didn't do anything when we welded the 2nd bolt onto the first to get it out of the diff. IMO, you shouldn't have to do anything if you do go ahead and weld the tabs on.
 

Last edited by dcarr1971; Jul 5, 2011 at 01:18 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 06:44 PM
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Ideally disconnect the battery and alternator.
More importantly, make sure the metal has been sanded/ground to bright bare metal.
Attach the ground to the diff guard and strike your arc on the diff guard.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dcarr1971
Mine has been on the front diff on my truck for more than 6 months now and has survived quite a few hits while offroad. I've never bothered to weld it on and probably never will. After speaking to several other guys with the QT front diff guards, I found that a lot of people don't weld it on.

In fact, the vendor I got it from (who I will not incriminate here ) even said that the tabs are really there to keep it from rattling around, and that they don't provide much real support.

Some advice (unrelated to the tabs)...

When you go to install the diff guards clean out the holes in the bottoms of the diffs and run a tap up in them to make sure the threads are thoroughly cleaned up. Seems obvious, but I was a slow learner, so I figured I'd mention it.

More importantly, also double check the bolts QT supplies for the holes on the underside of the diff. The ones I received were the wrong size. (The correct size is m10x1.25x25mm Gr10.9.) As you might have seen (https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ight=bolt+size) I made a mess by snapping off a grade 8 bolt in my diff when I assumed QT sent the right parts...

Just to close the circle and go back to your original question though, I didn't do anything when we welded the 2nd bolt onto the first to get it out of the diff. IMO, you shouldn't have to do anything if you do go ahead and weld the tabs on.
You and your vendor are fools, if you really want to make it easy, knowing that it is just for looks, use some velcro.
The front diff cover will not take a hit and remain attached without being attached to the welded tabs.

And yes, disconnect the positive cable while welding.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:58 AM
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Thanks Decarr,
I have the RockWare pinon guards installed. So I may not need the front or rear of those. I'll see how everything bolts up. Gotta love Disco Mike, doesn't hold back. I'll see about welding when I get it mocked up there. I know it was a pain enough to install the pinon guards without a helper to hold them in place while trying to start the bolts. I now have longer bolts in the front and kept the rear bolts from factory. The rear diff vibration dampener is a crazy contraption. No wonder our trucks are so heavy.
 

Last edited by bosshogt; Jul 6, 2011 at 10:21 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:16 AM
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Why hold back, there are too many people that believe everything that is posted and then regret it and HEY, life is too short.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
You and your vendor are fools, if you really want to make it easy, knowing that it is just for looks, use some velcro.
The front diff cover will not take a hit and remain attached without being attached to the welded tabs.

And yes, disconnect the positive cable while welding.
Gee Mike, why don't you tell me how you really feel? For a second there I thought this thread was over on D-Web...

I'm sure it would be at least somewhat better with the tabs, but the little grade 5 bolts supplied by QT and the little tabs aren't so robust that they're providing a huge amount of support. Believe me...the QT front diff guard has taken quite a few solid hits since I installed it and it hasn't moved an inch.

Anyway, if I get a chance to weld the tabs on, I'll be sure to disconnect the positive cable.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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The placement of the ground is more important than disconnecting the battery, especially when welding on an axle housing in situ.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 09:35 PM
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Update:
I wanted to say I welded my front QT diff guard tabs on this weekend and disconnected the battery. No problems major problems. However, I got the M&S lights flashing on first restart but they went away went turned off the Rover and restarted. I disconnedted the Negative battery cable and went for it. Too bad my welds look like a blind 4th grader did them. But thats what a grinder is for it right
 
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