What did you do with your DII today?
#3301
New battery, Costo Interstate 800cca only $82!
Also got some new Bilsteins for the rear (no bagger) replacing the OME Nitrocharger Sports, which were toast at around 40k. I like them better already, but probably should do the fronts soon as well. Still squirrely and sort of bouncy though the fronts are not as bad as the rears were. Not sure if I also need to change out the springs, they could be the bounce induction units.
Now with Bilsteins on the rear at least it bounces softer than with the OME's.
Oh and I bought a P38 all service up to date including recent HG... $3500!!
Also got some new Bilsteins for the rear (no bagger) replacing the OME Nitrocharger Sports, which were toast at around 40k. I like them better already, but probably should do the fronts soon as well. Still squirrely and sort of bouncy though the fronts are not as bad as the rears were. Not sure if I also need to change out the springs, they could be the bounce induction units.
Now with Bilsteins on the rear at least it bounces softer than with the OME's.
Oh and I bought a P38 all service up to date including recent HG... $3500!!
#3302
Tinkered with the 99 this week. I was tired of my SLS airing down overnight (RR bag was cracked), and I had my 03 D2 parts truck just sitting there all nice and level....
I had bought a set of 2inch aluminum blocks for a P38 RR for 60.00 and was planning on doing a poor mans lift anyways vs a TF 2.0inch MD lift. The Arnott Aluminum spacers fit the rear to a tee with zero modifications! The front of coarse involved me drilling out the center, cutting one side flat, and adding two washers between the coil plate and spacer (front coil plate is curved vs flat inside it).
Well I started off by taking the 03's SLABS Unit as wasn't setup for SLS (also it's a 50/50 chance if it'll be CDL compatible). I have a friend with a Snap-On Scanner so I can clear the fault codes no problem. Then I went to work on getting the coils off my parts truck, along with the isolators, and spring plates. I had an old set of coils and I honestly just stuck them into place without the spring plates or isolators as it'll never be driven by me.
I removed the SLS bags on the 99, and tapped the 10x1.5 bolt holes for the spring plates and installed 1inch longer 10x1.5 bolts. Instead of going with the full P38 2inch setup I went with just 1inch as I want my wife n daughter to have no issues climbing up into it (my wife is pregnant with our second little one).
I also took the time to remove the SLS Relay, Height Sensors, and I removed the SLS compressor, and solenoid valves. I left the box in place along with the original air lines as it hides the old wires/hoses and looks clean vs crap just cut/hanging. Then I raised the front end and installed my 1inch modified spacers. It now sits level and my next move will be grabbing some JK/JKU take-off's or I'll bite the bullet and grab some new BFG KO2's or Goodyear Duratrac's in 255/70R18.
Last step was driving to my friends and clearing the SLABS faults.
I had bought a set of 2inch aluminum blocks for a P38 RR for 60.00 and was planning on doing a poor mans lift anyways vs a TF 2.0inch MD lift. The Arnott Aluminum spacers fit the rear to a tee with zero modifications! The front of coarse involved me drilling out the center, cutting one side flat, and adding two washers between the coil plate and spacer (front coil plate is curved vs flat inside it).
Well I started off by taking the 03's SLABS Unit as wasn't setup for SLS (also it's a 50/50 chance if it'll be CDL compatible). I have a friend with a Snap-On Scanner so I can clear the fault codes no problem. Then I went to work on getting the coils off my parts truck, along with the isolators, and spring plates. I had an old set of coils and I honestly just stuck them into place without the spring plates or isolators as it'll never be driven by me.
I removed the SLS bags on the 99, and tapped the 10x1.5 bolt holes for the spring plates and installed 1inch longer 10x1.5 bolts. Instead of going with the full P38 2inch setup I went with just 1inch as I want my wife n daughter to have no issues climbing up into it (my wife is pregnant with our second little one).
I also took the time to remove the SLS Relay, Height Sensors, and I removed the SLS compressor, and solenoid valves. I left the box in place along with the original air lines as it hides the old wires/hoses and looks clean vs crap just cut/hanging. Then I raised the front end and installed my 1inch modified spacers. It now sits level and my next move will be grabbing some JK/JKU take-off's or I'll bite the bullet and grab some new BFG KO2's or Goodyear Duratrac's in 255/70R18.
Last step was driving to my friends and clearing the SLABS faults.
#3303
Just been driving the D2 every day, and now the ACE lights on all the time (electrical fault in control valve 1) it use to be electrical fault in valve 2, but that fault would only show up ones a week. The trucks quieter now with the ACE not working. Will just keep driving till I get around to getting new or used control valves and feel like dropping the valve body. Went to a buddy's place to try fitting a dirtbike carrier on the back and wanted to see if a dirtbike will clear the spare tire. Looks like I'd have to take the spare off or get an extender for the carrier.
#3304
#3305
A D2 radiator is a D2 radiator unless you go with an all aluminum model. They go for as low as 90.00 online with free shipping or as high as 300-500.00 OEM.
I slapped a 90.00 one into my 99 the other day (was less than a month old on my parts truck that I have). Compared OEM next to it and zero differences. Cores looked identical, and I'm running 188-200F (200F is at idle with the AC on full blast in SETX Heat/Humidity) so I'd say it's working just fine.
Today I decided to contort my body as much as possible and replace the INOP gas door actuator on my 99 D2. Thank god I have smaller hands. I was able to just remove that small access hatch in the rear by the jump seats, remove the inner vent, and get to it pretty easy. Removal was a snap, but lining up the actuator rod into the hole by yourself is kinda tricky.
I slapped a 90.00 one into my 99 the other day (was less than a month old on my parts truck that I have). Compared OEM next to it and zero differences. Cores looked identical, and I'm running 188-200F (200F is at idle with the AC on full blast in SETX Heat/Humidity) so I'd say it's working just fine.
Today I decided to contort my body as much as possible and replace the INOP gas door actuator on my 99 D2. Thank god I have smaller hands. I was able to just remove that small access hatch in the rear by the jump seats, remove the inner vent, and get to it pretty easy. Removal was a snap, but lining up the actuator rod into the hole by yourself is kinda tricky.
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galchutt81 (06-27-2016)
#3306
#3309
Took the family camping.
I need to either:
1. Reduce the D2's overall weight. (lots of bolt-on's)
2. Increase power and improve cooling system. (still have the inline stat parts, oil cooler sitting on the shelf ready to install)
My poor D2 climbs mountains like a Westie
It appears that the ability to link to Instagram images has been discontinued on this forum. too bad, it's a pain in the butt to try and maintain multiple image libraries.
I need to either:
1. Reduce the D2's overall weight. (lots of bolt-on's)
2. Increase power and improve cooling system. (still have the inline stat parts, oil cooler sitting on the shelf ready to install)
My poor D2 climbs mountains like a Westie
It appears that the ability to link to Instagram images has been discontinued on this forum. too bad, it's a pain in the butt to try and maintain multiple image libraries.
Last edited by Robert Booth; 06-27-2016 at 11:28 AM.
#3310