Shoot me a PM with your address and I'll drop eight straps in the mail next Saturday.

Brian.

 

I'm a bit confused...you mention hooking up that port, new brass barb in picture, to the coolant reservoir/expansion tank. But, that is not the intake heater port. The intake heater ports are both at the opposite end of the manifold, the two black nipples just below the throttle body. You can see them in your last picture, just below throttle plate mechanism.

Brian.

 

Brian...

I should have worded it better... my bad.

Plan A- disconnect original hose (originates at top of intake behind alternator) from Throttle body... connect 5/16" straight barb (photo) to 5' of fuel line hose... (2) clamps route toward the firewall around back of the Intake manifold... back to expansion tank and connect.

Plan B

Due to breaking a different plastic barb/ other location(see reason below) that connects the hose from valve cover (passenger side/ oil separator). I removed upper intake to clean out plastic fragments that fell inside intake when removing broken piece left in intake. The broken piece still lodged flush in the intake would not release from the threaded part of the intake. Instead of ordering and waiting for another OE plastic barb from A.B. I decided to buy the cheaper brass barb that was sold at Lowes in the plumbing section which will not break like the plastic original bard.

Since the upper intake was off I decided not to connect to the existing hose with the straight barb. I removed the original hose that originates from the top of the lower intake. There is a skinny barb at the top front of the lower intake behind the alternator that the original hose mounts and elbows it way toward the throttle body connecting to the left stub of the heater plate gasket assembly. This is where I installed the new hose routing it to the left straight to the expansion tank. Zip tied it along the way. A much shorter distance without a two- part hose with joint in the middle (Plan A).

If I would not have broken the plastic barb then Plan A would have taken minutes lol. I forgot to add the reason it broke. In the photo is a Purelator oil separator that is inline. I removed the plastic OE oil separator and cut off the top cap of the metal post that has the hole for the OE oil separator with a Dremel. It is the metal post that seats in the valve cover for the hose to connect to. Saw this mod awhile back. It is easier to change. Better flow by cutting the top off with the pee hole.

I hope this is better worded for anyone reading...

 

My radio kept cutting out so I checked the wiring. What a botched wiring job!
I'm working on this now...

 

Finally swapped out the factory beige T-stat in lieu of the gray 180 stat. Currently in the process of many many flushes to rid my poor stallion of DEX lol

Here are a couple takeaways
1. Get the gray 180 stat immediately lol I've logged my temps for months and these were the averages / ranges - Idle (195-200) Highway (195-197) City (208-216)
Temp range after T-stat - Idle (182-184) Highway (184-188) City (186-190)
Drastic improvements
2. Flushing coolant in these pigs is a nightmare. Messiest job I've ever done lol It also takes a lot of patience. I've flushed 5 times (1.5gal of distilled water each flush) and the output is still red Going to run water in for a few days to try to get a solid flush and then return to the cycle. Need to buy lots and lots of distilled water.

Nonetheless, super happy about this.
I'll be switching over to a 50/50 mix of BMW blue coolant with a whole bottle of water wetter. That should do me just about perfect for operating temps.
Also, my truck has the van and clutch of what appears to be a dump truck lol previous owner put some super heavy duty Chevy stuff in there that seems to run all the time.

I'll check back later (once I've cleaned up the 3 gallons of coolant that spills everywhere when you drain these turds lol

 

Florida Land Rover club rally !

 

I'm sooooo glad I swapped out the old TS with a 180 degree TS and upgraded the fan. I used to have temps as high as 219. Now my max temps are 197 here in Georgia.
I just wish now I could bleed the air/waterfall sound in my heater coil. I've tried every method possible that I found on the forum and the waterfall sound is still there.

 

Interesting. I'll have to try this. I received a bum OEM 180 stat (temps 217-230), so I ordered a new one, but put a Motorad 180 in (temps 200-210) for the time being. Maybe I should get around to trying the OEM again.

 

You want PEL500110 mate. $36 doll hairs on amazon lol I think same price from LRNJ.

I think maybe a tad bit more from L8

But that part number is the OEM 180 (gray)

 

Yeah, I bought the PEL500110 genuine grey, lrdirect.com for $55. $36 dollars sounds like the Motorad one.