What is the normal coolant temperature and a few other questions.
call BA back and have them add a Wrench - Fan Clutch - 36MM for $35.00, there is no need for a hammer. They really should not be on that tight anyway; torque is 33lbs. Just be sure to lossen it before you take the belt off. Most auto parts stores will also loan you one also.
Don't waste your time with the loaner fan clutch wrenches. 36mm is a common size for many Ford and GM motors and the loaner wrenches are frequently stretched out so they don't fit properly. I tried at least 3 different sets of loaner tools before figuring this out an just buying one...
And not to go against others trials and tribulations, but I always try to use factory parts...grant it, I will use a aftermarket part that is made for my car, but I wont take a part off a chevy to use on a bmw, unless of course it is in fact the exact same part...
Is the radiator an exact replacement? The center is the core, the core is made up of rows. How many rows does it have?
I have seen people swap out a 4 row with a 2 row and have all kinds of issues...(not rover, other makes) tank sizes could be an issue, flow, or some passages could be blocked with dexcool sludge near the sending unit.
Weight of oil, oil flow, the faulty oil pump can all increase temps. Do you have a brush guard with lights on the front? Any minor restriction could be the blame...
Just brain storming...
What town are you located in NJ?
Is the radiator an exact replacement? The center is the core, the core is made up of rows. How many rows does it have?
I have seen people swap out a 4 row with a 2 row and have all kinds of issues...(not rover, other makes) tank sizes could be an issue, flow, or some passages could be blocked with dexcool sludge near the sending unit.
Weight of oil, oil flow, the faulty oil pump can all increase temps. Do you have a brush guard with lights on the front? Any minor restriction could be the blame...
Just brain storming...
What town are you located in NJ?
Pretty sure oil flow is good, and running M1 High Mileage 10W40 right now so that should not be the issue. Also using the larger size M1 oil filter.
I have to check the new rad, but it looked fairly OEM. I have the parts list used by the PO for the last big job, and they really didn't skimp on parts. In fact, from brake pads to wires/plugs they were all the top of the line. I will check though.
Yes, I do have the brush guard and lights on there. I did take the lights off for a test and no changes there. I have another brush guard I'm going to put on as mine is beat up, so I will run without it totally and see if that makes a change or not as well. In all, it seemed like the idle temps were higher and the highway temps cooled down so I'm thinking that flow is OK. Hell though, could be a big combo of stuff. I think the fan and clutch are the big issues though, so we will see once I tackle those!
Also, I'm in Morris County off Route 80 not far from the Rockaway Mall if you know that area.
Last edited by Snafu / Disco Fries; Nov 4, 2011 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Town
Don't waste your time with the loaner fan clutch wrenches. 36mm is a common size for many Ford and GM motors and the loaner wrenches are frequently stretched out so they don't fit properly. I tried at least 3 different sets of loaner tools before figuring this out an just buying one...
re: I wont take a part off a chevy to use on a bmw, unless of course it is in fact the exact same part...
hmmm.... we have old GM aluminum engines that are prone to overheat for any number of reasons. Let's stick to the factory fan setup so we don't increase the cooling. And keep all stock parts. And the same guys will mod the heck out of their suspension, raise the center of gravity, etc. I would point out that a fan clutch has no dang idea which vehicle it is in. Hayden did not make a Rover specific clutch until somewhat recently, and other forum members found a chevy unit that crossed over, saving people a pile of money compared to dealers.
Now as to the repairs, clutch should make big change in idle and slow speed performance. Want to be sure that your are well below 212 when running down a flat road with no trailer at 60 mph. Otherwise there are other issues. This time of year would expect 190s, maybe even touch in 180s. Long slow roasting would still lead to many other problems, just takes longer.
And that clutch bolt will be tight if it has never been off, rotational forces and corrosion being what they are. Once off, taking it on/off in future becomes a snap of the wrist almost. I've taken my off maybe 30 - 40 times this past year, fooling with one thing or another.
hmmm.... we have old GM aluminum engines that are prone to overheat for any number of reasons. Let's stick to the factory fan setup so we don't increase the cooling. And keep all stock parts. And the same guys will mod the heck out of their suspension, raise the center of gravity, etc. I would point out that a fan clutch has no dang idea which vehicle it is in. Hayden did not make a Rover specific clutch until somewhat recently, and other forum members found a chevy unit that crossed over, saving people a pile of money compared to dealers.
Now as to the repairs, clutch should make big change in idle and slow speed performance. Want to be sure that your are well below 212 when running down a flat road with no trailer at 60 mph. Otherwise there are other issues. This time of year would expect 190s, maybe even touch in 180s. Long slow roasting would still lead to many other problems, just takes longer.
And that clutch bolt will be tight if it has never been off, rotational forces and corrosion being what they are. Once off, taking it on/off in future becomes a snap of the wrist almost. I've taken my off maybe 30 - 40 times this past year, fooling with one thing or another.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Nov 4, 2011 at 11:19 PM.
So i did mention that i would take a drive and let you know what temp reading i was getting on my ultraguage. I have put jut over 100 miles on it and never got above 188.6 and that was driving offroad at around 2 mph for 45 min and on the hwy at 65+. now everyone talks about the factory guage staying at 9 o'clock but mine seems to always be lower than that. thi discos prev. home was phoenix az where in the summer it is 110 degrees all day i live north of that and today it was around 75 degrees. At 9 in the morning we were headed out with all the windows down. man the winter here are awsome.
I'll chime in on this one too, after reading the start of this thread and not really knowing what my coolant temps were actually at other than a "touch below 9' on the gauge" i figured id hook my scanner up and see what we had. After two days of driving in mixed traffic.. regualar street travel up to full on friday afternoon LA gridlock my coolant temps never went above 190. Always staying in the range of 178-190 once the truck was up to temp.. This was with mid 60-70's ambient temps fwiw..
Son of a.... well, the 36mm is too big on the old and new fan clutch, so I'm guessing it is the 32mm is what I need. For those that have done it, what did you use? The sticky write up says 32, and then someone corrected to say theirs was 36. I figured maybe 32 for D1 and 36 for D2. Others here said 36 too, so that is what I went for. Anyone that actually did it that can chime in? I need to now find a loaner set for 32 as my friend had a 36 but not 32.


