so what was the end result here??

 

Old thread but regarding the fan missing the ring, 03-04 fans don't have the ring while 99-02s do have a ring around the blades.

 

oh.. cause I finally got some temp readings on my truck.. and if i sit idle for a bit after warmup.. it will sit at 220F.. mind you Ive changed Coolant temp sensor, tstat, fan and clutch.. did a flush.. I think I have to bleed it again.. I think I got a bit of air in there when I messed with the cap when it was still kinda hot..

 

PS it was 42 degrees out today..

 

The D2 spec for the thermostat is starts to open at 180F, fully open at 204F. The electric fan is supposed to come on at 212, and cool things off in slow traffic, and cut off at 202. Other folks have posted in the 190s.

My poor old D1 with a 180 stat will roll at 60 at 178 - 180, idle parked at 183 - 187. Of course, stat is in a different place, radiator is different, etc.

But IMHO 220 is too high for normal operation this time of year in the US. You may want to look at your radiator. An indy shop may be able to do a hot chemical flush on it, maybe even rod out, doesn't hurt to call.

 

youre right buzz.. im gonna inquire tomorrow.. is there any way to tell if the water pump is doing its "full" share?? with out taking it apart

 

Hard to say. It is rated to move 2.6 gallons of coolant per minute at 1000 rpm. Most likely if it is not leaking or wobbling it is OK. Try to find an indy rad shop that is small and works on construction / farm equipment; they make their money on the big stuff.

 

Buzz quick (probably stupid) question.. could a low voltage issue cause the truck to run a little hotter?? figure with sensors maybe reading wrong.. elec fan maybe not spinning as fast.. i found an old thread of yours on testing batt and alternator.. basically i gotta run a test on it regardless.. its running low 12s while driving.. lights, heat

 

Won't make it overheat. When driving at say 40 - 50 mph you don't even need the radiator fan (try holding pizza box out the window at 50). But volts in the low 12s are not charging the battery, drive long enough and with head lights, AC, wipers on, and you'll have a dead battery. Alternator should produce between 13.8 - 14.4 at the battery terminals at idle with nothing else on. Should not get below 13.2 with everything on. Alternators can be tested by a parts store. They can be 100% failed, or just partial, if any of the diodes is blown. In that case, it will produce volts, of the correct range, but not under larger load. Instead of a 130 amp output, it may only put out 30 to 60 amps.

 

I have a 2000 and my friend a 2004 Disco. Tested ultra gauge temp on both and got 206.6. 208.4, 204.8 and 203 depending on AC and heater on. I want to really understand if the real correct operating temp should be in the 190s. Both Discos have new coolant flushed properly, working water pumps etc. what are the odds that both are running hot and exactly the same temps?? Thank you.


Normal temp should be in 190's, when truck is running down the road with no trailer on level ground. Thermostat for D2 (they only make one heat range, I think) is rated for closed at 179F, fully open at 204F.

Would check the following in no particular order:

Coolant level - one person found they were two gallons low!

Radiator - clogged with mud or leaves (between condenser and radiator)

Radiator - chemical flush coolant out (Dexcool or old coolant, or old coolant plus stop leek previous owner put in) - if you always used well water it will be high in calcium build up. Distilled is best.

Thermostat - could be marginal - there are four holes that allow hot water to reach the stat and activate it. If those holes are plugged with trash or stop leekz, it will shift temp range up. These holes can plug because stat is mounted vertical and trash settles to the bottom.

See this pix from a post about temps being too high https://landroverforums.com/forum/at...mostat-005-jpg - those holes need to be clear.

Aux cooling should only come on/off with AC at speeds 50 mph or less, 82 F and above; off at speed of 62.5 and/or temp of 77 F or less outside. If engine gets to 212, fan comes on. But that is overheating, except in heavy traffic in the summer.

Normal level is NOT 220. And not 212.

Fan belt - check route and tightness (not slipping)

Water pump - old ones don't move as much coolant, eventually leak and wobble the pulley, about $50 and up part, 1 hour.

Fan blades - air should move toward engine, not be blown out the front grille. Sometimes fans have been mounted reversed, re-wired (condenser fan), etc.

IMHO you alarm point should be more like 219, so you have chance to take action.

Tranny and transfer case share the warning light for them, transfer case will light it at 293F. If you are not getting the cooling you need on the engine from fans or mud plugged fins that could impact tranny temp. Of course check fluid level in each.

Fan clutch (main) should be checked, when truck warm it should not spin freely by hand. 1/2 to 1 revolution only, should feel like there is peanut butter inside it. However, fan clutch does not make much of a change when runing at 50 mph, only at low speed or idle.

I bet your factory temp gauge is "normal"... glad you caught this.[/QUOTE]