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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 07:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
Have them balance while you are doing the ball joints. Badly/unbalance tires ruin ball joints over time...especially if shocks are worn...and shocks will become tired of all the extra movement/vibration/wobble after a while and fail, too.

I've not bought any ball joints for my rovers, yet, so I have no recommendations. But, I would assume any of the well known suppliers (rovers north, lucky8, British atlantic, etc) would have something of good quality.

Brian.
Would it be okay if I did the ball joints then drove into a shop for alignment and balancing? Or you’re saying to bring the wheels in when they’re off to have balanced, right? Then maybe I’ll go in for an allignment. Pardon my ignorance I haven’t done much work with steering components before.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 07:27 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Blake
Couple of my weights have fallen off as well.

I came across solution which looks rather interesting! Not sure if I am motivated enough to have them installed though.

https://expeditionexchange.com/shop?...balancer-eqfxd
hmmm interesting. So a pack per tire? And then just do away with all the external wheel weights?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 08:09 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TaylorCadence


hmmm interesting. So a pack per tire? And then just do away with all the external wheel weights?
Yeah, that's the theory. John @ EE only sells good stuff, so I trust that they work. They'll pay for themselves by not needing to get the tires balanced by a shop.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 10:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Blake
Yeah, that's the theory. John @ EE only sells good stuff, so I trust that they work. They'll pay for themselves by not needing to get the tires balanced by a shop.
but you have to pay for your tires to come off the wheels then add the packets to have them remounted I’m assuming. Apprx 35/ tire including the pack. In the long run would be worth it.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 10:17 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TaylorCadence


but you have to pay for your tires to come off the wheels then add the packets to have them remounted I’m assuming. Apprx 35/ tire including the pack. In the long run would be worth it.
Yeah, that's whats stopping me at the moment. I might try and mount the tire myself... good skill to have as an off-roader
 
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 10:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Blake
Yeah, that's whats stopping me at the moment. I might try and mount the tire myself... good skill to have as an off-roader
 
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Old Jun 12, 2018 | 03:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by TaylorCadence


Would it be okay if I did the ball joints then drove into a shop for alignment and balancing? Or you’re saying to bring the wheels in when they’re off to have balanced, right? Then maybe I’ll go in for an allignment. Pardon my ignorance I haven’t done much work with steering components before.
Yes, you could do it afterwards.

Brian.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2018 | 06:16 PM
  #28  
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Default Code 1590 just popped up

ok so don’t really know how this happened but I swapped out my initial power steering rebuild with a replacement (still whining, don’t even get me started 😡 ) and my abs showed up with code 1590 rough rd signal circuit malfunction. Don’t think they’re related so pretty baffled about the coincidence...

So would this be related to my wobble? It is getting worse maybe it’s messing with one of the front sensors. Im planning on swapping drivers side ***** joints this weekend.

Abs light was the first to flash on, now his two sidekicks are also back. Any suggestions on tests or how I can “unfriend” these three amigos?

already have previously done option B and cleared engine codes multiple time. Drive a few miles and they’re back.
 

Last edited by TaylorCadence; Jun 26, 2018 at 06:18 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2018 | 03:38 PM
  #29  
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Default Should I be worried?

Just completed both sides upper and lower ball joints but the steering knuckles are a little firm to turn. Put tires back on and they’re squeeking when turning at stand still due to being tight. I looked into it online and I did two things incorrectly:

1) I torqued the bottom ball joint to the correct value of 100 ft/lbs but I tightened it first when RAVE states to do upper first.

2) I then did the upper joint nut to 100 ft/lbs rather that 80. I searched all torque values on RAVE and couldn’t for the life of me find the upper ball joint torque value so I just matched the bottom.

This job took me a total of apprx 18 hrs over 4 days to complete (oth steering knuckles and hubs were rusted shut like a mother) and I reeeeally don’t want to take everything apart again to reset torque. So I took a open ended wrench and slightly backed off the upper nuts an 1/8th of a turn to accommodate the extra 20 ft/lbs I applied previously.

I know this a dumb question but would this suffice for now? And they just need to break in due to being new?

I know should redo them but I’m so frikin over it at the moment.

Im going to start a new thread since this is getting a little off topic, thanks.
 
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