If one really wants to add a bypass to their inline set up I believe these hoses are 32mm or 1-1/4 inch. Don't hold me to that as this is going off of my very fuzzy memory.

One can purchase a 32mm aluminum 3 way coolant Tee from eBay or Amazon for 12.99 plus tax with free shipping.

Please for the love of Jesus measure your hose ID before ordering as I don't want a thread made about me next (as if I have an empire built on 12.99 32mm coolant tee sales)

 

Hi.
Running the Disco with no bypass path since June 2012, day after bought used. I believe that is B.E. (before Extinct) And waaaaay before that, did the same to my '68 BMW. Whatever be the reasons for yes or no in-line, everyone is entitled to an opinion, I refuse to go to the original setup. The problem is not the quality of the components; it is the bad design. And won't give a sheet if the heater core explodes if not meant to handle the coolant volume. (that would be another bad design ! besides not having a flow shut-off valve for it. )

In summer, my inline thermostat housing is empty. Am not lazy to undo 2 bolts twice a year. In winter, has a 180F thermostat with two 3mm perforations.
Land Rover engineers will not pay the blown gasket repairs of my engine because they gave preference to the passenger warmth instead of engine health and reliability. That is very stupid for me to swallow.

Go inline !
A better way to limit the low coolant temperature is with louvers in front of the radiator as my Mack cistern truck had. NO thermostat. But today's cars are computers with wheels, and that would make the authorized dealer shop less profitable.

 

I ordered this inline mod but haven't installed it yet, so you are saying I should stick with oem instead?

 

I live in Jacksonville, FL rarely gets below 40 degrees and if so only for about 2 weeks out of the year, 100+ degrees in the summer. I have had two blown head gaskets so in your opinion which thermostat should i go with?

 

no one said OEM was good. There is another potential solution that works as well with the t-stat open as the inline yet retains the bypass functionality of the OEM set up so you aren't creating a pressure imbalance with stat closed or temp fluctuations in the winter combined with slow warm up temps.

 

Absolutely not! FLA will love the inline. It works great.

 

That's what I'm thinking

 

I'll have to apologize for right now, as I'm still working on this issue and don't have an answer I'm comfortable giving 100% assurances about quite yet. While I don't think it's the best option, my thoughts at this point are that if your OE system is healthy and operating normally, I'd leave it alone. The added back pressure and altered internal engine hot spots caused by the inline thermostat will likely not do you any favors, since you are already struggling with head gasket issues. I've got multiple friends and other D2 mechanics in my area that are still using the OE system, and as long as it's healthy, they've had no major issues. They do tend to think the FlowKooler pump is a nice addition to compliment the OE stuff tho, if that helps ya....

It's taking me a bit of time to source parts, test fit and stress test what I've done, assess and then make any needed adjustments, so I appreciate everyone's patience. Parts did start showing up today tho, and I expect the remainder sometime late next week. As Always, I will post my findings and parts lists on the forum here, when I'm sure I'm not leading folks astray with bad info. For those that know my work, you'll know I don't post mods before I'm sure it's the kind of thing I'd feel good about doing to a customers car, rather than those requiring constant Ultra Gauge usage and a seasonal parts change list to even make it work properly

 

like I said conflicting

 

has anyone used yhe inline stat over several years with no issue especially having blown head gasket issues or has anyone blown a head gasket using the inline stat?