2002 Discovery II, 155k+ miles, SE5, Colorado, NO KEY FOBS
I just bought this Rover for my wife. We've driven it for 5 days now. It came with 2 keys that fit the doors and failing ignition switch (retrofit one is on order). My wife started it up this morning to show me that the belt was squealing. I couldn't take a look at it at the time because I had to go to work. After work, I went to go about figuring out the belt issue and fix it. Unlock the door with the key, pop the hood, and proceed. The belt was put on wrong. Belt all fixed, I tried to start it... Nothing. Chime beeps when the key is in the ignition, but nothing else works at all.

I read many posts here and read about the super lock and others' problems with that. The difference between those accounts and mine is my doors unlock and I have no Fobs. I check battery cables, voltage, grounds, fuses(inside and out). With the door open, I lock and unlock the doors. I cycle the lock 3 times, 5 times, hold it in the unlock position for 3 seconds, 5 seconds, 30... I do it again with everything closed (lucky I didn't get locked out I guess). Flashers light up when I unlock for a couple of seconds and the blinker arrows on the dash light up green for a couple of seconds. When I rotate to lock, the horn beeps, rotate to unlock and the doors unlock and flasher light up a couple of seconds with the dash arrows lighting green.

I've checked the inertia swtich (which I had never heard of until now), and disconnected the battery (negative side) for 3 minutes. No alarm ever sounded either.

Can a scanner/computer disable the super lock feature while it's in this state?

I'm baffled. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I set it on fire.

 

Is the red light on? This can be found on the middle lower part of the instrument panel. It flashes with a few seconds between each flash after you close the doors and lock the car with the fob or the key. This indicates the alarm is on. If the red light is on when you put the key in and turn it then you know the immobilizer is on. If it is not on then you know the immobilizer is not the issue.

As for the super lock. You do not have that issue. If you did when you were in the car you would not be able to unlock it, pull the handle release and get out of the car and you could not get into the car from the outside

It sounds like the car's alarm is turned on and off as it should be every time you lock and unlock the car. That's what those green arrows blinking and flashers are telling you.

I don't think the issue is the keys or the alarm but is something else.

Battery charge - Mine has not started but all the electronics worked on the inside before. Took the battery to AutoZone for a charge and it started right up after a full charge.

Relay Fuze - could be bad

You can put the key in the II position and then take a screwdriver to connect the "S" wire connection and the battery connection on the starter to bypass the fuze box to see if that is it.

or

Maybe bad starter.

Hope this helps.

 

Yes the red light comes on. What you are saying makes a lot of sense. I'll look further into the battery and starter.

Thank you very much for the reply

 

If it honks at you = one of the doors did not lock/unlock. if you can manually lock all the doors, then go to the drivers door, lock it, let the red LED go from a fast flashing to flashing every few seconds. Then unlock it and see if the red LED goes completely out.

One thing my Nanocom is worth it's weight in gold in = Disabling SUPERLOCK!!!! That isn't your problem as you can open the doors.

 

Could also be shifter cable. Mine split at the ball joint, and would not ‘seat’ in Park once.. and I also could not start the car. I only discovered the problem because I live on a hill and when I was playing around with getting it started I release the handbrake and realized it started rolling. Even though it was in park.
After I fixed the part, she started right up.

 

I narrowed down the problem to the Passive Anti-theft System. Without a proper computer to reset it, or paying $400 to the shop, the vehicle is dead in the water. To add to this, I have no idea what could have set it off in the first place. With this problem and all the other work that needed to be done just to make it a decent running vehicle that would pass emotions, I decided to cut my losses and sell it.

I appreciate everyone's input and help. You're good people.

 

"...that would pass emotions..."

Love that typo!

I'd send you my computer setup to fix it, but the damn things are set for three vehicles now! Not fair!

 

You do have a couple of cheap options:

Ebay right now has a matching set up BCU, ECU and instrument panel for $120. If you really think it is the passive immobilization then this is a simple fix of unplugging the devices and plugging others in their place.

or

Check out the Rent a Nanocom thread and rent it from Brandon318 and turn off the passive immobilization.