hey guys,

i have a 2003 DII SE with 126k miles. truck had a tick... 3 different mechanics told me diffreent things.. so i took it to a local motor place and they told me i needed a new engine... rod bearings was their first idea of what was wrong... since i have the bad oil pump vin i thought that made sense.

i paid 1900 for his labor to pull the engine a rebuild it. i paid 3500 in parts and such to make sure everthing was covered.

NEW pistons
reworked rods and crank. (.10 over on rods, .20 over on crank)
new lifters, and rockershaft assemblies, new pushrods
reused cam, left in old cam bearings
reworked heads, changed valve guides
new oil pump kit
reused front cover
new t/c kit

block was dipped and cleaned

the sound is not there at cold start up or when your on the gas..

everything time when this thing is warm i hear the tap tap tap tap sound... located at rear passenger side (#8) manifold isnt cracked... new exhaust gasket installed

i'm thinking i'm losing oil pressure once this thing warms up because its not a metal to metal sound at cold start up... so it has something to do with heat, and oil !!!!

sound travels to driverside sometimes... no CEL idels high sometimes, but i just installed a new maf so a have no idea about the idel.


anybody got this ?

the sound is now worse since we replaced the rockershafts (30 miles after rebuild) i cant get this sound to go away... i wont drive it away from the shop without this sound gone. builder told me he miked everything and the motor was "fresh and tight" .... sound isnt in the bottom end and i have a 24k mile/ 2 year warrenty.

all of the engine had wear... bearings, pushrods,rocker shafts.



WTF am i gonna do

 

Could be a bad lifter,, you can get a bad one every once in a while.
Keep us up dated on what you find.

Good luck

 

Have they measured the oil pressure at idle?

 

I'll ask a basic question. What oil is in it?

 

Ah man, you stole my question.

 

mechanic told me today that the oil pressures were:

cold 2k 35 psi

warm 2k 8 psi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


hes telling me that my oil pump relief bypass valve might be dirty,broken or blocked.. he's gonna look at the valve on Wednesday. if thats not the problem... he thinks i should pay for new bearings.

i'm not driving this thing until the noise is gone

 

Stick to your guns, sounds like your oil pump is bad to me, you should have gotten a new front engine cover too becasue that is what causes the oil pump problems.
The dowel pins on the block are mis-alighed, the front engine cover sits on them funny and then because the oil pump is housed in the front engine cover when the dowel holes that the block dowel pins sit in get oblong shaped and then the oil pump gets out of wack and you loose oil PSI and then the engine.
The only 100% cure is a brand new non defective engine, the fix for the next 50,000 miles is a new front engine cover and oil pump.

 

Why would they clean the blocK with the cam bearings still in ? Why didnt they install new cam bearings? Used cam with new lifters, (not a good idea) ?
Just a guess, too much cam bearing clearance...or dirt in the new lifters from leaving the old cam bearings in the block while its "cleaned"

 

If your block was one that had the bad machining, it should have never been rebuilt, as the block is the actual problem.

The questions you are asking should be asked of the person who "rebuilt" your motor.

Used cam with new lifters? That's OK, as long as all of the lifters are new. Not optimal, but it works.

New cam bearings? Was it supposed to be part of the rebuild? It should have been.

The real question here is what is the definition of "rebuild" that you purchased, and should you block even have been reused in the first place.

I'm sorry, but for what you paid, you should have gotten a real rebuild. It doesn't sound like it was done properly or by someone who had any idea about these motors in particular.