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Cleaning the transfer case. Have to replace the intermediate shaft bearings as one outer shell was worn. There are some preload specs so have to get some parts to do this like adapting a trans input shaft to fit a torque wrench and maybe a new intermediate bearing spacer.....adding a paper gasket to the input shaft bearing retainer may trow off the original shim depth, so have to measure that play too. There was a leak at the intermediate shaft 'O' ring, so this needs replacement too. Not planning to mess with the output shaft/diff at this time. I don't think the fluid was changed regularly, if at all......pretty thick dirty grime all over. No metal flakes, though....
also, the intermediate shaft sits directly in the aluminum housing rather than in a steel bushing, which seems to be a weak point....
Can this be cut off with a grinder?
Once I get mine running I have to drop my TC and find it's leak. I already have 2 new seals for it.
Thanks for any info
if your trans and engine are far enough forward, you should not have to deal with this lip. I would not cut it off (you will expose the main body cross-member to moisture), just bend it down if needed.....
I had a leak at the intermediate shaft O ring. Looks like amine or transfer case sealant is needed instead of paper gaskets on mine. I will uses green paper gaskets on the covers, but not the bearing support housings (will affect shimming). Might want to check what you have. You can get a full gasket set from roverware.us for 20$ or so....
you need a 4.5 inch bearing separator and a press to get bearings off the input shaft. Don't drop the shaft! Now just waiting on rebuild kit with shims and input bearings from Ashcroft. They are good to deal with online. DHL shipping so hope to get my parts in a week or two. The races were a bit pitted and had a wear pattern which I think indicates loose preload. The rollers were pitted too. So glad I decided to change them out. Setting the preload is a bit of a pita as you have to put in a race and then remove it. Hopefully, with good measurements, I will only have to do this once....
ebay.uk for switches ( YUH100260PMA ) . Switches just pop into LHD fascia plate. On my 2001, the mirror switch is wired for all leads, but the switch is one pin short. That makes it easy for me to install the system. logic controller off ebay : "Car Intelligent Auto Vehicle Side Rear View Mirror Folding Closer System Modules"
I was going to program an arduino for this so that I could set open, close timer, but this unit has overload protection and saves me time building the board...
as far as the OEM unit, YWC105260, I could have gotten it cheaply off ebay, but rather try the newer unit as the OEM unit had plenty of issues......
One more thing: To make life easier, you need to pull the inboard black plastic triangle off the door and look under the foam (down in the door) for the orange wires and plug to the power fold mirror. If you have the Harmon Kardon system, these were included on early models (see pic). It would not be too hard to add the wires through the door, but I don;t have to pull the panel and fish wires in my 2001 disco.....
As far as getting the correct mirror housing, there are at least 4 part numbers for right side UK/USA versions. I think these are all the same EXCEPT the mirror is different. I'm just going to swap my right hand mirror into the power fold housing i got off ebay : Land Rover Discovery 2 OEM Electric Power Fold Door Mirror RH - CRB501390PMA Note: when I bought it , it was 50$ cheaper. Can you say 'ebay/amazon automatic pricing tool which increases or decreases sales price increase based on demand!' ?? You could get a used one off ebay.UK but it will be 20 yrs old...
Cleaning the transfer case. Have to replace the intermediate shaft bearings as one outer shell was worn. There are some preload specs so have to get some parts to do this like adapting a trans input shaft to fit a torque wrench and maybe a new intermediate bearing spacer.....adding a paper gasket to the input shaft bearing retainer may trow off the original shim depth, so have to measure that play too. There was a leak at the intermediate shaft 'O' ring, so this needs replacement too. Not planning to mess with the output shaft/diff at this time. I don't think the fluid was changed regularly, if at all......pretty thick dirty grime all over. No metal flakes, though....
also, the intermediate shaft sits directly in the aluminum housing rather than in a steel bushing, which seems to be a weak point....
Man that is bold! Have you done this before or just decided to jump in and figure it out?
I think I said it was a pain to install in a previous post. It’s very tight, but just keep wiggling it and it will eventually slide right in. I used 2 2x4 to keep the left side level. My transfer case kept getting hung on the right side. I think I actually removed the right side transfer case mount and then installed it after I got the transfer case lined up on the alignment bolts. Kinda wish I woulda filmed it. I’m trying to recall everything I did. Hope that at least will help you out. Good luck.
