No I did not mount it. It will require a fabbed bracket. Just did not get around to it yet. Finally got everything back together and she started right up and runs super smooth. No more pressurized cooling system! !

BUT, now the temp gauge needle is running at top of normal range and diagnostics show P0117 (temp gauge too low)....it can only be connected to harness one way, and engine does not start when sensor unhooked.

So I think my water temp gauge is out of spec (non OEM) so just ordered a Lucas part. maybe those 300ohms do make a difference! We shall see......

 

OK found the 'overheating' issue. It was the temp sensor from AB. I ordered Lucas and Delphi sensors. Delphi got here first so it went in. Works GREAT. Temp needle in mid position where it should be. Confirmed running at 183 degrees w/laser before and after replacing sensor. Delphi unit takes a 3/4 wrench so have to unmount the alternator to get in there. In the pic, the white dot version is the new sensor that does NOT work (made in Spain, Intermotor brand sold as MEK100160), and the Delphi box holds the sensor that DOES work ( made in China). Delphi sensor 16$, not working brand 24$.

TIP : I drained the coolant below the temp sensor level by unclamping hose on bottom of reserve tank and then emptying tank and draining the hose into a clean catch can. Need to empty the volume equal to about one jug of antifreeze. Using the hose and dropping it below the level of the heads works great. to unhook serp belt, remove two alternator bolts, and drain antifreeze takes about 15 minutes. A few drops of black silicone on the new sensor washer and then installed. I reused the antifreeze as it was new and clean.

TIP: Hook hose back to bottom of reserve tank and reinstall the tank. Then for antifreeze refill, it is very easy to remove the air bleeder screw and then unclamp the lower intake manifold large coolant hose from the tube (between alternator and ac pump) and fill the system from here with a funnel. When tube filled, replace hose and fill rest of system through the little coolant air valve. This nearly eliminates all the air. Just ran it for a few minutes , turned off, and bled the air bleeder twice. No heater core gurgling and only tiny amount of air. The reserve tank will fill as you fill the big coolant tube.

Issues: still have bank A + B running rich...will have to figure that one out someday.....

 

Was able to obtain a now complete set of black seats in excellent condition. 3 different donor vehicles. The 1st and second row are leather. All third row seat material seems to be vinyl even if other seats are leather, so have excellent set of black vinyl too. second row cup holder was jacked. Gear came off and spring popped off. Two big zip ties to remove the unit. Used donor parts from old seat. The viscous gear is removable so I changed the old for the new as the new one did not slow the opening of the tray. Reset the gear and spring. The bezel has 4 or so snap clips built in. Carefully pry off bezel, they are hard to find! When reassembling, the short arm of the spring fits straight back into a slot. Pop the coil onto the plastic pin using the access window. Then tuck the long arm behind the swivel locking pin before inserting the cup tray. The gear is protected on assembly/disassembly by a riser tab.

 

Seat repair: Is your front seat 'J' clip broken and the seat cushion loose? Simple fix: Using locktite PLASTICS bonding system and https://www.sailrite.com/Automotive-...-Seat-Clips-54 from sailrite enterprises. Trim 'J' clip to needed length. clean surfaces with alcohol and let dry. Then using 'activator' prep both parts and let dry a few minutes. Add glue to just one surface and clamp together. Bond is super strong. I could not separate test parts! 'J' clip fits perfectly. Cost: less than 20$! See pics for fix.

 

@XRAD thanks I was wondering how I was going to fix that

 

THX for the likes! Yw, RG: I tested heavy duty stapler, thought about drilling and riveting, and tested 3 glues. Searched for a while for the right 'J' clip. This seems the best solution as long as the stitching is intact and you have enough original plastic. If the stitching is gone, you would have to have an upholstery shop sew the 'J' clip in........

 

Seat install: Installed the 'new' black leather seats front and 2nd row. Still have to do 3rd row. Swapped out black trim for my grey trim, including grab handles. Installed fuses, and everything works, including the seat heaters !!! The only thing I am considering is trading out the full position motor set from old driver seat into the new passenger seat. Looks like body harness and switches will control it.....maybe when it's not 25 degrees out....

So now everything works like it should, even cruise control, except still have to figure out the bank 1 running rich issue......I plan to make a harness bypass adapter and test directly to the ECU. Might have to fab an O2 simulator......

 

Hey, finally got a new code! P0440 I was getting tired of P1172.....

Going to try hyundai purge valve....(don't know if original hyundai OEM, but will see)

IRIS USA Hyundai 28910-22040

 

One thing fixed:

Fixed the purge valve with the hyundai part. Tried a 4.6 airbox and intake tube with larger diameter MAF (with another sensor inside) and got lean O2 codes on both sides.... so back to 4.0 diameter MAF.

New sucky issue / Disco2 whack a mole!!! :

Started with a rattle which seems to run up and down the transmission so hard to pinpoint. Thought it was a rod knock. Maybe...but engine is super quiet except for slight lifter tap... Thought it was the CDL so changed the fluid out for 70w/140. No difference. All other fluids are new. BUT, rattle goes away when in neutral, and comes back in park . In drive, it goes away as soon as on gas but you can hear it at low rpms. When under car, the rattle seems to come right out of the tranny, but can't pinpoint with stethoscope... Trans pump??

In my 2001 body, I have a p38 4.6 gems block, 4hp24 Trans, and CDL. I am pretty sure it's all running on the original 2001 ECU/BCU/dash

 

Pretty sure it's a rod knock! I put rotella T4 15w 40 in and it went away.....the sound was travelling down the exhaust pipes so it sounded like the trans/CDL......