Started off in sunshine, ended in a squall, but job done! Pinhole in lower hose. Bought cheapy lower hose set off ebay with the plastic Y pipe. Changed out all the hose clamps to 6 or 8mm heads and wide straps. The hose that goes to water pump was too small to fit. Used a gates 23233 hose from o'reily's. trimmed off straight bit to fit. Went right on water pump and Y pipe. Replaced thermostat with lower temp one. Now i'm running 190's idle and 204 max after flooring it around town. Was running 214. NICE. No coolant leaks now.

 

Steering a bit loose. The clamp from aftermarket steering shaft to the steering box input shaft was loose. Crap T27 head bolt. Head stripped on tightening, had to use 5mm? allen head pounded in to remove. Replaced with longer m8 1.25 bolt and added safety nut and lock washer on backside. You will need a thicker hardened washer to keep bolt head from countersinking. Plenty of room for through bolt and nut. Adjusted steering box, tightened inner screw (T head) less than 1/4 turn. It is a good idea to mark the screw and the housing before loosening the lock nut so you can clock the adjustment accurately. Steering nice and snug now!

Also, still no codes with the walker O2 sensors and new H2O temp sensor.

 

It is a good sign when your girl does this:

 

Ok so tried to add full seat control to passenger side(front/rear tilt, but not the lumbar bladder) . The USA passenger switch i have is the same as the UK driver control, so I suspect the wiring is also included, and looking at the harness connections, the big light gray connector has all the leads. BUT, the real issue is that the seat rails are steel riveted to the central frame on each side, not bolted. And you need the specific driver side frame for all the movements. Just echanging the sliders would be perfect. However, I tried removing the slider stopper in the rear, and removal was successful, but the ball bearing tracks have other stoppers too, and if slid off, I think the ***** would all fall out. So unless I get my hands on a UK frame and switch out the bottom cushion and the backrest....don't think that the passenger will get to enjoy the front/rear tilt seat controls.....

Grinding out the rear metal stopper, then it punched out easily...but rails still did not slide off...tiny little stoppers on each side to keep all the ***** in place....




and here are the major motion components in the driver frame:



and the British driver seat control (driver has more long brass connectors) is the same as the one I have on passenger side......and the British passenger is also same as on USA driver's side.....
Some of the USA passenger seat controls do not have full switch ranges...

 

OK got the rails off. Had to grind out 3 'stops' on each side. Dremel! and then bend the remainder out of way. Rails slide off. 6 ***** per side, seemed to be 4 in rear and 2 up front for each rail, separated by a nylon rod. But it could have been 2 +1 in rear and 2 + 1 up front. Anyway, you can get the rails off and back on with the *****...not a big deal. Soooooo...what I thought was the same harness plug turned out to be different (the big gray one) Off by a few prongs. I am sure that with more time, I could source the correct plug and relocate all the pins. There are 12 pins to gray connector on each side so should be straightforward...will try changing out the driver seat harness plug with passenger seat plug.....


EDIT: wellllll, seems obvious, but the seatbelt and fascia mounts are on wrong side of frame. Idea shot for now.......

EDIT II: Wellllll, back in business! Seems that the frame IS universal except for a small welded tab for the seat buckle lock. All needed holes are there. Sooo, I just bought a true 'driver' switch off ebayUK which has the correct smaller gray connector. This could work out nicely........will see.....

 

It seems like we've done the same type of work...

If you are taking out the seats, remove the center console and the carpet. Chances are carpets are wet underneath and you're getting water from elsewhere. It is also a good time to inspect your A-pillars to see if you get the water. I hate to disappoint you, but there are quite a few places that may leak water into the passenger side :-)

 

After 2 years I think my passenger side leak is beat, bad very bad windshield install and gutter corner were the issue

 

well, I now have bigger issues than a small leak (which is gone or nearly gone now). Running great for hundreds of miles...then that little pesky squeak which I was too lazy to track down turned into a terrible grinding noise. Thought an axle was coming out sideways. No noise with CDL in neutral. So something in the drivetrain after transmission. The grinding sounds like its coming from front side and rear all at same time. Hope it's not the CDL. Will have some fun figuring this one out. I'm so lucky my girl was able to give me a ride (she's the best!). Due to corona light virus, no passengers allowed in tow truck....sheeeeshh....

 

It turned out to be a beat double cardan center ball.....dry as a bone. Doubt it was ever greased. I know I only greased the fittings I could see (the two 'crosses'). the ball grease fitting is hidden under a rubber cover.... Time for a new one anyway as this was probably one of the earliest Tom Woods shafts (installed per PO).....

at least it was NOT the CDL! You have to jack up the Disco and put it on 4 stands. Put CDL into neutral. Then you can turn the wheels and look for loose /grinding stuff. There is a little play in the front and rear diffs, but they are about the same. rear D shaft is tight. Once the front shaft removed, I put it in low locked and drive up and down the driveway to make sure the noise was gone. It was! 9/16th D shaft nuts. With vehicle on stands, easy to clock shaft to get at nuts, and then just use hand brake to hold shaft. Take front nuts off first. I will also have to replace the CDL flange bolts as threads are mostly shot. Looks like they were cross-threaded or over-tightened at one point...

Side note: you can't drive the Disco unless CDL locked with D shaft removed. Also, it will roll when in park. So be careful and use CDL lock and handbrake! Also, since I increased the driveshaft angles by installing 6 degree radius arms (plus the 4" lift), I'm sure to have stressed this old D shaft some more! But I like my steering now!

Now the question is which D shaft to buy. I might go with the BPU D shaft......don't know yet. I want easy to get to grease fittings!

Short vid of what you DON'T want in your driveshaft below!

EDIT: went with a custom length TW's D shaft...will see how it holds up.....

 

You are quite bold, sir!