In attempting to change XYZ range switch on 2004 Disco 2. The front bolt was corroded and head snapped off. The bolt is still in transmission. Question is does that bolt really do anything withe overall xyz switch alignment since it does on through spline and back bolt is intact.?? Also should be held in place by linkage... Or do I have to take bolt out?? Can this be done on vehicle or do I have to drop tranny??

 

Will you still be able to remove the entire switch? Its tight down there. As lkng as you can remove the switch, i guess you can vicegrip the remaining stud thats left but use a lot of pb blaster.

 

It is ideal to use both bolts but I guess not essential. If possible remove the broken bolt insitu and replace it but hell I certainly wouldn't remove the tranny for that reason only. Do you own a 90 deg chuck head to possibly drill out and re-tap the thread insitu? I trust you marked the correct position of the switch before you pulled it out as the exact position is critical to the operation of the gearbox. There is an LR setting tool for reinstalling the switch correctly, admittedly I never used it but I did mark the switch and autobox casing first. The switch and rod does take quite a hammering when driving though.

 

x1 .....

 

I'm sure there are others more experienced than I with the XYZ switches but I have had my own share of trials and tribulations with them.

What you do not say is where the bolt sheared. Did it shear off proud of the transmission housing so you might be able to get a pair of Vise Grips on it? Even if it means buying a pair of the smaller, maybe 6 inch Vise Grips?

If not I would not worry about it too much. The function of the two flanged cap screws with the 10 mm heads is to keep the switch in its rotational position. As you can see it is the 13mm nut on the selector shaft that holds the switch in position generally. I think you would be fine with only one of the two flanged cap screws in place but if you can get a pair of Vise Grips's on the sheared off cap screw I'd try to do so. I understand that it's impossible to get a tool in place to drill out the sheared off cap screw in order to use an EZ Out.

In any case, do not over-torque either the 13mm nut nor either of the flanged cap screws. I learned through the School-of-Hard Knocks what happens if you are not very, very careful.

 

Oh. And by the way. One LRF thread per crisis per person is enough, please.

I know you were in a pickle and anxious to get help. I've been there. On a chilly night in the driveway under the truck with the iPhone flashlight trying to see what I was doing with a failed XYZ and a stripped selector shaft, which could've been much, much worse than the problem you have. I get it. But please, one thread per crisis.

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