here is the RAVE page on that, you can measure to see if you would still be within the limits.

If a rad is partially blocked, you could have normal temps at 60mph, then when you slow down either blocked rad or low air flow from wimpy fan clutch can let temps climb quickly. Murphy's Law comes in a multi-volume set.

 

Thanks for that Rave .pdf Savannah!

New (2months ago) Chevy fan clutch installed, probably didn't need it cause it didn't make any difference in idle temps. But of course the new fan clutch killed the water pump (it's leaking a little).

I try to troubleshoot problems using "Occam's Razor" as a guide, but then ole cousin "Murphy" steps in and makes life interesting.

I suppose I'll pull the head this weekend, check the dimensions and look for other carnage. Then make an informed decision on which direction to proceed.

I'm not even going to figure the cost of radiator replacement in the calculations since it will have to be repaired or replaced no matter which course I take on the engine.

 

Running lower octane gas will cause the computer to compensate by retarding the timing of our engine. It was designed to run on premium for a reason, optimum efficiency. By running 87 octane you are choosing to run inefficiently with retarded timing.

You'll need to run at least one full tank of premium through it to get the computer to put the timing back to normal.

I've tried it a time or two and notice that running with the timing retarded does make the engine louder, rougher, slower and possibly hotter.

 

I would agree it runs rougher and slower with a blown head gasket!

 

LOL, Very True!

I put that up about the octane so that future readers of this thread will not assume you are correct about there being no good reason not to run regular octane fuel in these vehicles.

I'll give you the caveat that if you are driving with a blown head gasket it probably doesn't matter. :-)

 

Not driving it, upper intake is off.

Praying to the Rover Gods to give me wisdom, guidance and understanding so that I may contine on my chosen path to save this truck from the scrap yard.

Many thanks to the Rover High Priests that monitor this Forum!

 

Depends.
On two of my rovers, I cleaned the heads and flipped them back on.
Like pancakes in a pan.

The D1 has gone 33K miles now on my "head gasket repair".

The D2 has gone 4,000 miles only.

I talked to a guy around here who bought a D2 that the guy ran until it quit - with no water.
The guy who bought it pulled apart the engine and found #8 piston melted.

He (Denis) took the heads to a shop and the shop said the heads were just fine.
So, go figure on that...

Hard to say.
I just hope Denis does not have slipped liners.

 

Update on HG repair...... Decided to repair rather than replace right now.
Gonna have to keep this truck, my grand kids think that they are riding around in "Miles Axlerod"

Heads have been machined previously but check ok for warping. Ordered the VR kit off E-Bay, only $150 with bolts.

As for possible cause for the blown gasket at #5, the head bolts had varying degrees of torque required to get them loose as someone suggested might be a cause,( earlier in this thread). Some came loose with an impact wrench, some required a 18" pull handle, two required a 4ft cheater. The bolt closest to #5 did not feel right coming out, not crossthreaded but something in the hole making drag. One was not tight at all!
New water pump on the way also.

 

The uneven bolt torque is interesting. Is that a known issue?

 

When re-doing the head use something (paint marks, tally sheet, cardboard and a crayon) to keep up with each bolt and progress on it. Would not be the first time a person with a wrench on a Rover got called away for something.