ZF Auto failure
If I'd gotten to it before I sent it off to the shop.
In fact, I recently replaced the battery, and it sat without one for at least 6 hours, and the radio didn't lock up on me -- which is good, since I don't know its code.
What's that about the hood switch? That's a bit I hadn't heard before; could you expand?
In fact, I recently replaced the battery, and it sat without one for at least 6 hours, and the radio didn't lock up on me -- which is good, since I don't know its code.
What's that about the hood switch? That's a bit I hadn't heard before; could you expand?
I would find the transmission controller and see if you can clean up the CAN Bus connection.
Maybe get the radio code handy.
Then pull the battery cables off.
Put the cables together when they are off to clear all capacitors.
And reboot the controllers by putting the battery back on (With the HOOD switch disconnected).
Long shot.
But...
It is cheap to do time wise and costs nothing.
Maybe get the radio code handy.
Then pull the battery cables off.
Put the cables together when they are off to clear all capacitors.
And reboot the controllers by putting the battery back on (With the HOOD switch disconnected).
Long shot.
But...
It is cheap to do time wise and costs nothing.
Then do the hoky poky and you turn yourself around... that's what its all about....
Oh, right, Buzz. I tend to forget about the alarm, since my horn doesn't work. I don't believe I've ever fought with the immobilizer. Maybe once, and I had to do the keyhole hokey pokey.
So it wasn't the transfer case, and it wasn't the converter...
it was, it turns out, a bearing plate that separates two clutches. It apparently failed rather spectacularly, and let the two clutches grind against one another until they in turn failed, and it stopped moving. Parts $1k; labor $1.2k. <sigh>
it was, it turns out, a bearing plate that separates two clutches. It apparently failed rather spectacularly, and let the two clutches grind against one another until they in turn failed, and it stopped moving. Parts $1k; labor $1.2k. <sigh>
Well, thanks, Buzz.. that makes me feel so much better. :-)
In practice, though, when I got the truck for $4k, market said it was at least an $8-9k truck for it's condition; this repair brings me right up to that, over 4 years.
I guess I can live with that, for something that was $44k new, 8 years earlier. :-)
In practice, though, when I got the truck for $4k, market said it was at least an $8-9k truck for it's condition; this repair brings me right up to that, over 4 years.
I guess I can live with that, for something that was $44k new, 8 years earlier. :-)


