i didnt even attempt or take a look at this part of the job yet, but can you remove the pistons on the engine without removing the engine. if not possible any tips on removing the engine, schematics tips steps etc?

 

Lets get down to basics, year, model and mileage???
What is wrong with thengine, what have you done to diagnois the problem?
Mike

 

my apologies, '96 series I , 157,000mi....allrighty ran her extremely hot and was idling very rough...stopped her then let her cool didnt want to crank up...actually sounded like the cam was out of time...so i did spark check, no fire on 2 aqnd 5 they share a double coil. she has 35 psi cranking on the fuel rail. so i did a compression test with all plugs out and at wot. two cyl had 90psi and all the others had approx 35psi. so sounds like time to pull the heads and see whats up with her...pulled the heads all pistons are fine and dont have scarring on cyl walls except drivers side piston all the way to the rear...didnt feel scarring on cyl walls but crown of piston seems to be rounded toward rear of engine. nothing like i have seen in all the engines i have torn down. pulled the valves out the heads and they appear to have been leaking badly. so i figure re ring while she is down and def replace the piston which is bad...you think i should re ring the others mike? or just the bada one....also i know i need to replace the bad coil. i need to confirm that the cam timing is correct too. thanks

 

Read my section on powertrain (www.eurotakapg.com)-- under the tech info pages. You are most likely facing more damage then you think. I say that because any piston deformation means you got the thing real toasty, and probably slipped a cylinder sleeve or two. The problem is that many try just throwing head gaskets on, maybe freshen up the heads while they are at it, and then bolt it back together ---and it still overheats when under load. The block has internal cracks from the overheating. Slipped cylinder liners also mean replacing the block or you will just blow head gaskets again.

Check for the slipped sleeves first. If that appears okay, you might want to pull the piston/rod assemblies and look at the ring lands for signs of collapse or broken rings. If either condition is present then you got the block too hot. Then you would be better off finding a used engine out of a wrecked vehicle, but only one where you could verify the mileage on the engine.

Hope this helps you.

Regards,
Geoman

 

thanks geoman.....i will take a picture of the piston in question and post it up in here. it really looks odd unlike other pistons i have seen that have gotten over heated but thats what i wanted to do was pull all the rods and pistons out before i ordered any parts for it. i mean re ringing when the walls of the sleeves are scarred or if the sleeves have moved then the block is toast like you said.

thanks,

cterrebonne

 

pulled all the pistons out today....not that bad of a task with the help of jack stands....anyway pulled the oil pan and looked at it found that the piston in question actally melted way more than i thought peices actually melted and then fell into the oil pan...the piston melted the skirt under the rings put not to the wrist pin....rings were intact but the spot where the piston melted left the cylinder wall rough...that equals block no more good i guess b/c i can find any type of o/s pistons. i checked the con rod bearings and they are worn you can see the copper underneath in some spots but the crank seems fine no scarring at all but i didnt pull it out to do a run out test ...who knows it might be shot. now i guess that brings me to my choices. what do ya'll recommend i do i noticed geoman reccommended a used engine from a junker.