Discovery 2 LS Conversion
#1141
This all really puts my symptoms into perspective. I'm seeing a decent drop in RPMs when AC kicks on and other random times too that I'm not certain the cause of. I'm assuming that the GM ECU knows when the Land Rover AC kicks on?
I'm almost certain my VSS wires are connected correctly but they're not soldered just using butt connectors. Figured I'd do that later when I confirmed that everythign was working properly but sounds like a soldered connection is quite important.
I'm currently not getting a speed readout on the GM side which is based on the VSS signal so that also matches the scenario you described.
As far as the second start goes... I usually see improved symptoms after stopping the car and restarting it (assuming I dont get MS lights).
I'm almost certain my VSS wires are connected correctly but they're not soldered just using butt connectors. Figured I'd do that later when I confirmed that everythign was working properly but sounds like a soldered connection is quite important.
I'm currently not getting a speed readout on the GM side which is based on the VSS signal so that also matches the scenario you described.
As far as the second start goes... I usually see improved symptoms after stopping the car and restarting it (assuming I dont get MS lights).
Factory settings for the VSS in the GM computer read a fraction (less than 1/10) what they need to be for the Rover signal coming from the ECB. If you get up to 60 mph and it shows like 4 mph on the GM side, then the signal is good, but the settings/tune in the GM ECM are wrong. In that case, it shouldn’t really matter, because the ECM still knows when the value is non-zero. You can have the GM ECM reset to match the values in the manual to fix this problem if you want, but it should work even with them at the fraction.
On the other hand, if you are going 60 mph and the GM side shows zero, then the VSS wiring is the problem. In my experience, butt connectors will not work for this circuit, nor will poor soldering. These are low voltages that don't do well with extra resistance in the wiring. Interference can occur - that is why the factory GM wire is a twisted pair.
Maybe if I made an amplifier would help to make the wiring easier. Also perhaps shortening the (usually long) VSS wires to go directly from the ECB box to the GM ECM and not through the harness would be better as well.
#1142
This might be a silly question but I didn't readily have the answer in my mind and it is rare that I don't at least have a clue...
Why do we need to use the Bosch maf and the GM maf? I understand needing the GM maf to feed info to the GM pcm. What would the body control module or the gm pcm need to get from the land Rover maf?
Maybe I read the instructions wrong. That's what I swear the ACE instructions stated.
Thanks
Why do we need to use the Bosch maf and the GM maf? I understand needing the GM maf to feed info to the GM pcm. What would the body control module or the gm pcm need to get from the land Rover maf?
Maybe I read the instructions wrong. That's what I swear the ACE instructions stated.
Thanks
#1143
This might be a silly question but I didn't readily have the answer in my mind and it is rare that I don't at least have a clue...
Why do we need to use the Bosch maf and the GM maf? I understand needing the GM maf to feed info to the GM pcm. What would the body control module or the gm pcm need to get from the land Rover maf?
Maybe I read the instructions wrong. That's what I swear the ACE instructions stated.
Thanks
Why do we need to use the Bosch maf and the GM maf? I understand needing the GM maf to feed info to the GM pcm. What would the body control module or the gm pcm need to get from the land Rover maf?
Maybe I read the instructions wrong. That's what I swear the ACE instructions stated.
Thanks
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losinov (04-14-2022)
#1144
I wanted to let everyone know that I put a step-by-step guide together for solving low idle situations here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/en...10/#post822676
#1145
For anyone struggling to remove the torque converter bolts here's a video of how I tackled it. Worked pretty well. The point of entry is the rubber plug below the starter on the passenger side.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QtUaQyvByGMnhDpJ7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QtUaQyvByGMnhDpJ7
#1146
I wanted to let everyone know that I put a step-by-step guide together for solving low idle situations here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/en...10/#post822676
#1147
For anyone struggling to remove the torque converter bolts here's a video of how I tackled it. Worked pretty well. The point of entry is the rubber plug below the starter on the passenger side.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QtUaQyvByGMnhDpJ7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QtUaQyvByGMnhDpJ7
#1148
#1149
Evap should look something like this on the manifold I believe. https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4...rge-solenoid-1
#1150
I was assuming that was the evap also. I believe ACE recommends you connect the evap system. Then again I don't know if that means it does anything or if it was them saying please don't freeze our bank accounts epa.
Evap should look something like this on the manifold I believe. https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4...rge-solenoid-1
Evap should look something like this on the manifold I believe. https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4...rge-solenoid-1