@Karmakannon
You lost me. I'm not really understanding what you've done here.
Did you pull the engine out already, with the transmission attached?
Was your flex plate already cracked?
You shouldnt have to force or bend anything...
​​​Have you got any bolts out yet?

Are you rotating the engine?

The RAVE manual only has 2 steps for this part.

​​​​​​

 

I and my full time mechanic buddy pulled the engine with the torque converter attached because after referring to rave we realized there was no way to pull the bolts from the access plug or the starter hole. The flex plate was already cracked and thankfully it was because I'm not sure how else I'd have gotten the bolts out. Yes I turned the engine over and no this is not my first rodeo. I thought I was going crazy because reality was different than what rave showed then my mechanic buddy confirmed that the converter had to come out with the engine. He watched all access locations while I turned the engine over and he couldn't see the bolts anywhere but barely through the starter hole and we couldn't see how to get a tool in there. If rave is correct then you should clearly see the torque converter bolt heads clearly from two of the four pictures I posted above. The bolts are lined up with the access points in the pictures above but you can only see one of them that is extremely obstructed through the starter hole.

Lined up with the hole but not visible because it's too far towards crank center to be seen.

Hiding and not accessable with any tool I own. There is no straight shot at the bolt. I had to take the picture at this angle to even show the bolt.

 

@Karmakannon
Im going to go back through my notes and see what I can find....maybe im missing something.
Somethings not right...just can't tell what...
I can confirm I pulled mine out, with the oil pan & starter still in place, you can see it here....and the torque converter was left in the transmission until the engine was out also...Hopefully someone else can chime in and help out...

 

Sorry to have replied so late to your question, 604x4BC. I believe I had a similar issue but it happens a few minutes after startup for me as the engine approaches opperating temperature.
Idle RPMs will start to drop slowly and eventually start dipping down into the 300-400 range and the engine can't get back to it's regular idle range.
I believe my issue is likely related to a poor signal at the crank shaft position sensor becuase I'm still getting very frequent MS lights. Sometimes at startup and other times after I get back into the car after driving around town for a bit.
Did unplugging the canister that connects to the purge valve help? Also, I read my manual very carefully, never saw a section about the Purge Valve. Can someone provide that information here? I was one of the beta kits so I'm guessing my manual is missing some helpful troubleshooting tips.

 

@losinov
You know what.. I think it might have actually made it worse.
I have died twice since I unplugged that. I can almost call it now.
Only happens when the engine is cold
The day after I unplugged it, it died when I left the parking lot from work, waiting to turn onto the road.
Yesterday, it died again the same place.. But not today. Although today it was trying to die. I think if I'm light on the throttle, it fights itself to stay alive.
If I peel outta somewhere, for surely I will die.
2nd... Yesterday I went to the gas station down the street from work. 2min drive. After I filled up and left the gas station, For the first time ever.. TC, Hill Decent, Gear position and M&S were having a party on the dash.
Drove for about 15min like that.. Drive to a store, turned it off. Came back about 30min later, started up... No more party on the dash, and proceeded to drive home as normal.

What in the F is causing this?
You're still having this problem?
Im inclined to try putting the whole EVAP system back in... If that would fix it.
One possibility perhaps, a vacuum leak in the brake booster line? Been reading around about cold engines stalling and a lot of people say vacuum leak. I can't think of anywhere else I have a vacuum line..
Im going to pickup some starter fluid tomorrow, spray it on that hose and see if there's an increase in RPM.
Another possibility... Baffling in the Airbox need to be cut out? Is the engine not getting enough Air in the beginning?
Im quite lost... I am determined to figure this out though.
@ACEngineer ...Would appreciate some input on your experiences PLEASE!

 

what is your idle set at? Who did the pcm work?

I was looking into pcm options and something like pcm hammer or lsdroid seemed like it might be good for messing with minor tune stuff.

 

@Karmakannon
RPM min is 750
New computer from PSI Conversion tuned as per instructions
Wonder if possible it could have to do with VSS.
Being that I don't have a solid read from the GM speed sensor... Still haven't redone my wiring yet..

 

Maybe some data logging might be in order. Are what's going on when it goes crazy maybe?

 

The low idle will cause the M/S lights because the RPM is too low for the sensor to get a read. The CKP positioning can be perfectly fine, but if the idle gets too low, then the sensor isn't spinning fast enough to generate enough voltage to be accurate, so the lights come on. Chances are the low idle is the root problem, not the CKP sensor itself.

I would guess the low idle is either caused by (1) bad VSS signal; (2) vacuum leak (potentially through canister valve if it is after a second quick start, like at a gas station); (3) low voltage from a dying alternator, or one that isn't producing enough power at idle.

The VSS doesn't need to see the correct signal. It just needs a signal to know when the car is stopped. It can also be tuned out. The VSS wires really need to be soldered nicely, as that signal seems to be quite easily subject to interference. I am wondering if a signal amplifier might be helpful.

And to pull the torque converter bolts out, you have to pull out the rubber plug on the passenger side of the engine that is behind the starter. It is closer in towards the crank than the driver's side rubber plug.

 

This all really puts my symptoms into perspective. I'm seeing a decent drop in RPMs when AC kicks on and other random times too that I'm not certain the cause of. I'm assuming that the GM ECU knows when the Land Rover AC kicks on?
I'm almost certain my VSS wires are connected correctly but they're not soldered just using butt connectors. Figured I'd do that later when I confirmed that everythign was working properly but sounds like a soldered connection is quite important.
I'm currently not getting a speed readout on the GM side which is based on the VSS signal so that also matches the scenario you described.

As far as the second start goes... I usually see improved symptoms after stopping the car and restarting it (assuming I dont get MS lights).