You could have a leaky injector which is bleeding out the rail pressure after sitting. What happens if you cycle the key a couple times before cranking? I had the same issue with mine. I bought a refurbished set of injectors for my swap and 2 of the 8 injectors leaked. To test this, I pulled the injector rail w/ injectors off of the intake manifold and turned the key to the run position to pressurize the fuel pump. You can see if injectors are leaking pretty easy.

I'd almost guarantee the whistle you have is due to the extra holes in the flexplate. Since the Discovery torque convertor is much smaller in diameter than GM, it leaves about 18 holes open in this universal style flexplate. I fixed this by plugging 12 of the 18 holes with small rubber plugs. I have a previous post about this issue.

 

I had a tough time testing the injectors because I have the aftermarket fuel rail without clips, so there was nothing to hold the injectors into the rail. I need to find the fittings to do a proper pressure test. It makes sense that there's a leaky injector. Is there reliable way to get new injectors without paying $130 per injector? Some people sell a set of gm injectors for $60 on ebay, while 1aauto has injectors for $150 a set. Not sure I should trust either of them, but I'm not inclined to pay $900 for factory injectors either.

I purchased those rubber grommets for the flexplate, but couldn't get them into the holes for the life of me. I purchased the exact ones from your previous post. Is there a special tool or technique you used?

 

So I have about 2k miles on the swap and it's been working beautifully after working out some kinks.

One thing I noticed was that my interior cabin became scolding hot in the footwell. My a/c was not working particularly well either to the point where I did a full service to it to rectify that issue. What I discovered was that the heater core was extremely hot in the center section by the hi/lol shifter.

I went down a rabbit hole on the Internet and saw that a lot of hot rodders and jeep guys were having the same issue. They used ball valves in the line going from water pump to heater core. So I got a 3/4" barb ball valve and did the same. Boom. That completely solved my problem and the temps on the ultragauge did not change. As a by product the A/c became significantly colder bc it was no longer fighting the heater core.

 

I bought one of those cheap sets of injectors and ended up using some of those and some of the ones that came with my used engine. I would just make sure to test any replacement injectors for leaks before installation. There are many places that will clean and flow test injectors for much less than new.

Regarding the grommets, I just used a slightly dull screwdriver. Kind of hard to explain but I'd get the grommet started by hand and then I'd use the screwdriver and push the opposite side of the grommet to try and get the other half through the flexplate hole. Once you figure out a technique it's not too difficult.

 

Do you completely close the ball valve or just restrict it some?

 

I closed mine completely with no ill effects. I still recommend keeping an eye on the temperature with ultragauge. I have a warning set on mine.

 

Interesting. I might have to try it out. I've been using the torque app with a bluetooth adapter to monitor temps since I need it to give me gps speed since my speedometer is about 12% off with my new tires.

I actually was digging in the tune the other day and noticed a fan cutout for a given mph. Thinking it didn't matter because I forgot the Rover tps is sending signal to the gm PCM, I didn't even think to change it. Good thing I didn't have any cooling issues.

 

Question, when using the coolant sensor in the upper radiator hose by way of aluminum adapter, does the adapter need to be grounded?
I did not ground mine, a few people have suggested It should be, especially when I talk about my temp gauge on the dash rising even though the temps are fine. Apparently not grounding it can cause sporadic readings...just curious what others ended up doing here.
Thanks,

 

Mine is not grounded either and works just fine.

 

With the new found power I went ahead and went with 315/75/16 Yoko Geo MT. Previously had 4.43 gears as well. Really enjoying this whole package now.