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Not a Deralle setup. I completed the Ford Fusion Dual fan set up a few weeks ago. The fans, with shroud, came from a 2015 Fusion 2.5l and cost $50. It was ridiculously easy to install with very minor trimming. I’m using a 3 relay set up with 2 circuit breakers to turn them on. FYI, I have a new big battery and a new 150 amp alternator. My LS pcm triggers the fans to come on at 185 degrees and off at 175 on the low setting, which is the two fans running in series. (6 or 7 volts each). At this speed I can’t hear them running, but they cool very well.
At 195 degrees the LS pcm triggers the fans to run in parallel, or 12 to 14 volts each and full speed. At this speed I can hear the fans blowing hard. Switching from running in series to running in parallel is accomplished with the 3 relays.
Yesterday it was 86 degrees where I live. I drove the Disco up a fairly steep, 3 mile dirt road with lots of switchbacks. Basically I flogged the crap out of it to see what would happen with the engine and transmission cooling. The LS got as hot as 210 near the top, which I thought was great. At the top I parked the rig and it cooled to 175 in just a few minutes. I’m pleased with the set up. Total cost was about $150, and included the fans, relays, circuit breakers, and a gasket to seal the fans to the original Rover radiator. The fans look like they were factory installed. I like how seamlessly the LS pcm turns them on and off.
FYI…trans temps hit 230, which I measure before the coolers and immediately after fluid pumps out of the transmission. I’m ok with that, especially considering the intentional abuse.
Thanks for describing, What setup do you have to see the Transmission temp. Using the stock cooling setup ?
Thanks CPTKAOS and CaptainAaron on the fan shroud help! Installed the Derale 16842, fit perfectly. Went from initially seeing temps climb through 225 in local stop and go traffic to now seeing temps at 197 to 206. Ambient temp high 80’s. Very relieved.
Now onto my next issue. I’m getting the M&S, hill decent, brake warning lights coming on only when I turn the AC on. Transmission changes gears fine but at higher rpm +500~. With AC off no warning lights. Didn’t have this issue prior to the Derale install. idle dropping or electrical load ? Let me know if anyone has run into this. Alternator is a 220amp so shouldn’t be issue.
Thanks again for all the help.
Sweeet, nice work!! That issue sounds like a voltage issue. May just be a load issue and the AC ripple off the alternator. Make sure your rover CPS is not in close proximity to the alternator or starter positive leads as the interference might be the deal.
Update on my intake/IAT temps. I was regularly seeing 125 running with 165+ idling for any time. This was with the previous open cone filter. So I but the bullet, installed a snorkel and sealed it. Went to 3” after the rover MAF and a sealed airbox. Now it’s safer for wading and I run 90ish moving and 115 idling. If it’s good for power it’s good for mileage too. I also added some hood vents that start where the radiator ends. This actually dropped about 10-15 degrees off idling temps.
Put a scan gauge or whatever on the gm computer and move throttle through motions. Almost certain you’ll have like 50-60% throttle. I’m at the the tuners as we speak working on my tune.
CPTKAOS -May have another option to solving this issue. The shop I worked with had an interesting idea to grind down the slot in the cam to reduce the radius. We we were able to get 90+ % throttle opening. Let me know what you think.
That was a good idea. I would work it some more to get the full 100%. The computer is calculating on a scale determined based on a 100% assumption. I dont know HP tuners all that well, but many stand alone setups allow you to calibrate the TPS. That would be better if you stay where you are, but ultimately the throttle blade isnt going WOT, so that is less than ideal
Update on my intake/IAT temps. I was regularly seeing 125 running with 165+ idling for any time. This was with the previous open cone filter. So I but the bullet, installed a snorkel and sealed it. Went to 3” after the rover MAF and a sealed airbox. Now it’s safer for wading and I run 90ish moving and 115 idling. If it’s good for power it’s good for mileage too. I also added some hood vents that start where the radiator ends. This actually dropped about 10-15 degrees off idling temps.
Looks great CPTKAOS. Been wondering if hood vents would help overall cooling and that intake looks very nice.
Great, now more things to add to my list of to dos. :-)
lol, always. ARES Fabrication makes a variety of louvered panels and they are on eBay. They come with nice through-bolt hardware, but that seemed silly so I used black rivets to install
[QUOTE=04disco2va;865124]Thanks for describing, What setup do you have to see the Transmission temp. Using the stock cooling setup ?[/QUOTE
I ran a 1/2" transmission rubber line from the original fitting on the transmission to the a 1/2" "y" fitting, where the fluid is directed to both the original tranny cooler and the original oil cooler. At the coolers themselves, I also used the original quick connects....see my sticky post about replacing the o-rings to make them leak free. The oil cooler and tranny cooler run in parallel this way.
To get the temperature of the trans I cut the rubber transmission hose on the outlet side of the transmission and installed a 1/2" inline fitting that accepts a 1/8 NPT temp sender for the gauge. The fitting must be grounded. I attached it with robust hose clamps.
Note: This is the hottest point to measure the trans temp, as the fluid comes most directly from the torque converter and before any coolers. The temperature, when measured here, varies widely. When the torque converter locks up, the temperature falls precipitously to around 100 degrees in my rig. My research tells me the Rover transmission dummy light comes on at 293 degrees, and I have not seen my transmission get any hotter than 240 when measured here.
A better place to measure the temp of the transmission that wont give you frequent heart attacks is at the pan. This location gives a more average temp. To accomplish that you can either weld a 1/8 NPT bung onto your transmission pan, or replace the fill plug with a 12x1.5 steel plug that has a 1/8 NPT in it already.....this is what I did. I'm not concerned with knocking the sender off the pan in this location as it's tucked up under the rig fairly well.
I found everything I needed on Amazon, except for the steel pan adapter plug....dont use an aluminum one you can find on Amazon!!!! Aluminum is too soft and it more likely to break. Find a steel one at Ebay. Good luck!
05-16-2023, 06:58 AM
