Discovery 2 LS Conversion
#1452
06-04-2023, 05:46 AM
Camel Trophy
Good idea on the hood vents. Although I am not running an LS I have been pulling the sealing weatherstrip at the base of the windshield off for years which allows the hot air to escape up and out of the engine bay at idle or low speeds. You can actually feel it on a cold morning by placing your hand at the base of the windshield with the truck at operating temp and running, the hot air flows in waves up the windshield. Pulling the weatherstrip does defeat the concept of the factory cowl installed cabin air filter but that was always kind of ridiculous anyway.
I grew up in central Louisiana where summer daytime highs typically are 104 with 98% humidity. Our local municipality ran their 2 ton city trucks with dual racing hoodscoops facing backwards. My dad knew the city fleet super and asked him about it and he said that was how they kept the trucks from overheating sitting in city traffic, only thing that worked for them (this was the 70's, so they were likely big block Chevy's or Fords).
I grew up in central Louisiana where summer daytime highs typically are 104 with 98% humidity. Our local municipality ran their 2 ton city trucks with dual racing hoodscoops facing backwards. My dad knew the city fleet super and asked him about it and he said that was how they kept the trucks from overheating sitting in city traffic, only thing that worked for them (this was the 70's, so they were likely big block Chevy's or Fords).
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CPTKAOS (06-04-2023)
#1453
06-04-2023, 10:46 PM
Rock Crawling
[QUOTE=Tracecollier@yahoo.com;867133]
thanks Trace. I’ll look for that. Definitely would like to know the temps. Dummy light on at 293 wow!
Thanks for describing, What setup do you have to see the Transmission temp. Using the stock cooling setup ?[/QUOTE
I ran a 1/2" transmission rubber line from the original fitting on the transmission to the a 1/2" "y" fitting, where the fluid is directed to both the original tranny cooler and the original oil cooler. At the coolers themselves, I also used the original quick connects....see my sticky post about replacing the o-rings to make them leak free. The oil cooler and tranny cooler run in parallel this way.
To get the temperature of the trans I cut the rubber transmission hose on the outlet side of the transmission and installed a 1/2" inline fitting that accepts a 1/8 NPT temp sender for the gauge. The fitting must be grounded. I attached it with robust hose clamps.
Note: This is the hottest point to measure the trans temp, as the fluid comes most directly from the torque converter and before any coolers. The temperature, when measured here, varies widely. When the torque converter locks up, the temperature falls precipitously to around 100 degrees in my rig. My research tells me the Rover transmission dummy light comes on at 293 degrees, and I have not seen my transmission get any hotter than 240 when measured here.
A better place to measure the temp of the transmission that wont give you frequent heart attacks is at the pan. This location gives a more average temp. To accomplish that you can either weld a 1/8 NPT bung onto your transmission pan, or replace the fill plug with a 12x1.5 steel plug that has a 1/8 NPT in it already.....this is what I did. I'm not concerned with knocking the sender off the pan in this location as it's tucked up under the rig fairly well.
I found everything I needed on Amazon, except for the steel pan adapter plug....dont use an aluminum one you can find on Amazon!!!! Aluminum is too soft and it more likely to break. Find a steel one at Ebay. Good luck!
I ran a 1/2" transmission rubber line from the original fitting on the transmission to the a 1/2" "y" fitting, where the fluid is directed to both the original tranny cooler and the original oil cooler. At the coolers themselves, I also used the original quick connects....see my sticky post about replacing the o-rings to make them leak free. The oil cooler and tranny cooler run in parallel this way.
To get the temperature of the trans I cut the rubber transmission hose on the outlet side of the transmission and installed a 1/2" inline fitting that accepts a 1/8 NPT temp sender for the gauge. The fitting must be grounded. I attached it with robust hose clamps.
Note: This is the hottest point to measure the trans temp, as the fluid comes most directly from the torque converter and before any coolers. The temperature, when measured here, varies widely. When the torque converter locks up, the temperature falls precipitously to around 100 degrees in my rig. My research tells me the Rover transmission dummy light comes on at 293 degrees, and I have not seen my transmission get any hotter than 240 when measured here.
A better place to measure the temp of the transmission that wont give you frequent heart attacks is at the pan. This location gives a more average temp. To accomplish that you can either weld a 1/8 NPT bung onto your transmission pan, or replace the fill plug with a 12x1.5 steel plug that has a 1/8 NPT in it already.....this is what I did. I'm not concerned with knocking the sender off the pan in this location as it's tucked up under the rig fairly well.
I found everything I needed on Amazon, except for the steel pan adapter plug....dont use an aluminum one you can find on Amazon!!!! Aluminum is too soft and it more likely to break. Find a steel one at Ebay. Good luck!
#1454
06-04-2023, 10:56 PM
Rock Crawling
That was a good idea. I would work it some more to get the full 100%. The computer is calculating on a scale determined based on a 100% assumption. I dont know HP tuners all that well, but many stand alone setups allow you to calibrate the TPS. That would be better if you stay where you are, but ultimately the throttle blade isnt going WOT, so that is less than ideal
#1455
06-05-2023, 07:01 AM
It may not make a lot of difference given the power of the LS, but just rescaling the TPS in HP Tuners doesn't really solve the problem as the throttle blade is still not all the way open. Ideally you want to get the physical part working correctly and then scale.
#1456
06-06-2023, 04:23 PM
Overlanding
#1457
06-09-2023, 07:45 AM
What is up, fellow LS swappers?!
So I have a cranking question that I am hoping one or more of you may be able to answer. On Cold start, the truck fires up without missing a beat. It also cranks right up if I have been driving, shut it off, and then (somewhat immediately) start it back up. However, if it is good and warmed up and I shut it off and let it sit for any longer than say15 minutes, it takes a good 3-5 seconds of cranking before it fires. Once this has happened and after it is running, I can turn it off and crank it right back up with no issues. There is just something about letting it sit, warm, turned off, for that magical 15+ minute mark that causes the next crank to be long. Anyone else experiencing this kind of "warm start" long crank? It hasn't ever NOT started or left me stranded, but the prolonged cranking is bound to wear the starter out prematurely, I would think.
Otherwise, 3000+ miles on the 6.0 LQ9 swap with no issues! Loving it!
Thanks!
So I have a cranking question that I am hoping one or more of you may be able to answer. On Cold start, the truck fires up without missing a beat. It also cranks right up if I have been driving, shut it off, and then (somewhat immediately) start it back up. However, if it is good and warmed up and I shut it off and let it sit for any longer than say15 minutes, it takes a good 3-5 seconds of cranking before it fires. Once this has happened and after it is running, I can turn it off and crank it right back up with no issues. There is just something about letting it sit, warm, turned off, for that magical 15+ minute mark that causes the next crank to be long. Anyone else experiencing this kind of "warm start" long crank? It hasn't ever NOT started or left me stranded, but the prolonged cranking is bound to wear the starter out prematurely, I would think.
Otherwise, 3000+ miles on the 6.0 LQ9 swap with no issues! Loving it!
Thanks!
#1458
06-09-2023, 08:07 AM
I would guess either crank sensor doesn’t like heat soak or the fuel in the rails is boiling off so it has a bit of vapor lock. A return less system is more prone to this but it still shouldn’t really happen. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the rail? Be good to see what it is at that 15 minute mark.
#1459
06-09-2023, 08:35 AM
I would guess either crank sensor doesn’t like heat soak or the fuel in the rails is boiling off so it has a bit of vapor lock. A return less system is more prone to this but it still shouldn’t really happen. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the rail? Be good to see what it is at that 15 minute mark.
I would agree on the crank sensor and heat soak, except it will crank fine if it’s good and hot and I shut it off/start it right back up. It’s something about that magical window of time.
I think you’re onto something with the fuel pressure. I don’t have a gauge, maybe that should be my next step… I forgot to mention, after it does the long crank and finally starts I can smell fuel in a major way.
#1460
06-09-2023, 08:39 AM
Mine is awesome thanks. Hopefully the other Captain offers that trans module but otherwise I’m. Happy
fuel smell. Ok. I’m betting on leaky injector(s) causing a flooding situation. An FP a gauge might show you the pressure drop. Takes 15 or so to leak down. Floods the cylinder. If you wait longer it evaporates enough that it’s not an issue.
fuel smell. Ok. I’m betting on leaky injector(s) causing a flooding situation. An FP a gauge might show you the pressure drop. Takes 15 or so to leak down. Floods the cylinder. If you wait longer it evaporates enough that it’s not an issue.
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jershelb (06-09-2023)