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thank you! I’m in Austin. Where are you? And I’d love to check your swap out!
I'm mostly in Amarillo, so that's where the truck is. Once it's running i'm sure it'll make it down to Dallas once in a while.
On a separate note, can we compile some very high level steps for this project?
I currently have the radiator, battery box, fan clutch and intake removes and need some help understanding which series of steps is most efficient from here.
Should I install the 2" lift at this point? Remove the heads? or start unbolting the transmission from the engine? Concerned if it's safe to rotate the crank from the front bolt while the serpentine belt is off. I'll have to rotate the crank to reach all the flex plate bolts.
Is this project easier on stands or does that make the truck too tall when working in the engine bay?
I'm mostly in Amarillo, so that's where the truck is. Once it's running i'm sure it'll make it down to Dallas once in a while.
On a separate note, can we compile some very high level steps for this project?
I currently have the radiator, battery box, fan clutch and intake removes and need some help understanding which series of steps is most efficient from here.
Should I install the 2" lift at this point? Remove the heads? or start unbolting the transmission from the engine? Concerned if it's safe to rotate the crank from the front bolt while the serpentine belt is off. I'll have to rotate the crank to reach all the flex plate bolts.
Is this project easier on stands or does that make the truck too tall when working in the engine bay?
The best advice is generally to follow the RAVE instructions pertaining to engine removal and safety first. It would probably be best to install the lift kit before removing the engine.
Once the belt is removed, the A/C compressor can be taken off and stored in the factory air box (that way you don’t have to evacuate the lines). You will need to remove the power steering pump hoses from the pump. I’d recommend removing the A/C and power steering bracket as well as the alternator bracket to give you more working room when pulling the engine. Underneath you will need to remove the rear crossmember (under transfer box) and the exhaust from the Y-pipe forward.
You first have to unbolt the torque converter to flexplate bolts, which are accessible through the passenger side rubber plug in the oil pan. You can rotate the crank using the crank pulley to locate the bolts in the torque converter. After removing those four, then you can remove the bellhousing bolts.
We have done the install with the truck sitting on its tires. A jack is needed to hold up the transmission once the engine is disconnected. Other folks probably have some more tricks on ways to remove the engine.
on engine removal for a general overview, good tips in there. It does start with the heads already off so there's a few steps missing but the RAVE is pretty good at filling in the gaps. I unbolted the power steering pump and AC compressor so I could leave those lines attached. Overall it's not a hard job. The engine harness is a PITA, I completely removed it when I removed the bad engine from the 03 and am now attempting to leave it on the engine and only disconnecting if from the ECU and trans on the 04. One thing I don't remember AB or the RAVE covering was the ground strap at the back of the driver's side head to the chassis. It's pretty evident that it has to come off as you're doing the top bellhousing bolts but I don't remember ever seeing it mentioned.
Update: We have decided to go ahead with our alternate design for the transmission adapter. This new setup has several distinct advantages: it shortens the drivetrain, which gives more clearance between the radiator, fan, and hood. It's easier to install and looks cleaner. The other big issue this solves is that it reduces our material cost, which has become an increasing issue. This is going to take some time to make this change, but it is the right direction to go in.
As we've gotten more into this, and finished looking at the financials for the first four kits, it is clear the price is going to have to go up over the original estimate. We are including many more parts now than we had originally anticipated, which has greatly increased the amount of time spent on fabrication, cutting into the already thin margins we were working with. We want these kits to have a certain level of quality that is just not possible at a lower price point. We really appreciate all the support we've had from this forum and the Land Rover community.
On another note: We have been messing around with these headers, which seem to fit if you don't mind a little bit of hammering. They look great through:
How much bigger is the LS than the rover motor? Maybe 10% larger? I'm talking above the package size/outside dimensions.
Maybe. The block dimensions are not that much different. It's a bit wider. On the truck engine, the intake is a bit taller. The truck accessory drive sticks out a bit further. Overall, it's a snug fit.
Terrafirma lift kit is half way in! Just waiting on the new strut/shock towers to come in for the fronts.
Ace - thank you so much for the update on the progress of the kit. At what point would you feel comfortable giving us an estimate of costs? Was recently looking at some swap kits for Buell motorcycles and was blown away by what the company was asking ($12k). Just want to make sure this will be within my expected budget.
With the amount of aftermarket support for the LM7 vortec's there has to be a set of headers out there that will fit without hammering, no? I wouldn't mind buying them separate from your kit if I don't have to hammer away at something.
Terrafirma lift kit is half way in! Just waiting on the new strut/shock towers to come in for the fronts.
Ace - thank you so much for the update on the progress of the kit. At what point would you feel comfortable giving us an estimate of costs? Was recently looking at some swap kits for Buell motorcycles and was blown away by what the company was asking ($12k). Just want to make sure this will be within my expected budget.
With the amount of aftermarket support for the LM7 vortec's there has to be a set of headers out there that will fit without hammering, no? I wouldn't mind buying them separate from your kit if I don't have to hammer away at something.
The headers are something we've been trying out for this build specifically. Both earlier times we've used some aftermarket manifolds that fit fine and there are others that will probably fit. We're not going to include manifolds in the kit, but we're building up a 'recommended' list. The swap should be able to be completed for around $5k including the kit, budgeting for a good used engine, and all the other parts that you need to buy. It could be done for substantially less if you get an engine at a great price -- or a package deal with an engine, wiring harness, ECM, and sensors. While the kit will go up slightly in price from the previous estimates, we are including more parts, which means the overall cost of the swap isn't going to change much.
In general terms, things you will need to purchase separately:
Engine ~$700
Wiring Harness $550 (eBay harness could be $330 option, or included with engine)
GM ECM $200
GM Sensors $300 (MAF, O2, MAP, etc. may be included on engine)
Oil Pan $250 (highly recommended)
Exhaust Manifolds $200+
Intake hoses / coolant hoses $150
Accessory drive belt, pulleys, tensioner, etc. $100
Fluids $200
Random other parts $200
