Questions for those who have done the install:

1. There's an oil pressure adapter mentioned in the install directions (page 23) but I didn't see it on the parts list.... thus I don't have it. It's from speedway motors it says, as is the EVAP delete plug which is one of the few parts I haven't ordered so, if I can find the right adapter I'll order both now.

2. I also don't see where this little bracket that holds the reluctor wheel sensor goes either, I see a few ways I could make it work but I'm sure there's an intended location and way to position it. The wheel is on just needs a final tq to 245ft/lbs? Seems high, I put it to 100ft/lbs until I get confirmation.

3. These along with the fuel related fun I haven't tackled yet. I need to figure out if I buy a returnless fuel rail, block off the return or buy this Z920 fuel rail kit off Ebay. Not sure what my options are still. Then I need to figure out why I needed to order so many adapters for the fuel lines, seems like I have more than I need but perhaps the answers will come when I've the proper fuel rail. Right now it seems I don't need the 3/8th stuff and just the 5/16th adapters but I've put little thought into that so far. The accessories brackets and physical stuff is mostly done though. Anyone able to supply instruction on this fuel supply part?

Random info: I ordered most all the stuff off the build list including the plastic ducting for intake. I don't care much for it though it's easy and functional, I will probably hard pipe it like I do with intercooler piping for looks and for longevity, plus I figure a better airflow than the corrugated piping provides. We'll see though, maybe the routing will be so obnoxious I'll just keep the flex. I'm debating just running an oil/air filter like UNI as I do on my dirtbike and on my car. They provide superior filtration, handle water better and provide better flow, plus you can clean it and run it for years and years, generally 5+ years before the foam starts to break down. Downside is you need to clean them annually if you drive on the street or as needed when you're in the dust. The plus is that they take up less space and don't demand an airbox which has some pro's and cons.

I'm also looking at where I can fit a york compressor for OBA. With all these brackets we're gaining a few open mounting holes to make an extra bracket, maybe ACE will will make one at some point even. I'm not sure if there will be any room above but maybe below there's room for the smaller york. The crank pulley with the kit has an unused portion for a second serpentine belt, that might be useful even, who knows yet.

 

That's a really nice option for someone who wants all that power. I personally enjoy the build process so would rather do all my own wrenching than buying a crate motor.
I opted for the LM4 which is lighter than the LM7 and will be closer to the weight of the stock V8 my rover came with in the first place. I also want to keep additional drive-line work to a minimal so 400hp is not for me. With stock intake manifold and injectors I'm thinking the parts I'm installing should amount to ~330 hp after an ecu tune.

 

Just putting it out there. It's a great warranty but that can be had with other motors as well. I am going to look at an LQ4 tomorrow. I may even look at a 5.3 and put a truck cam it.

 

The oil pressure is Auto Meter 2268, which you can get lots of places. I think the EVAP is only from Speedway. The sensor bracket goes on the lowest front cover bolt on the driver side. I think the Rover fuel supply is a 5/16” quick connect female. You need a quick connect male 5/16” to -6AN, then 6AN fuel line. GM is 3/8” quick connect male on rail, so you need 3/8” quick connect female to -6AN. GMs had two rails, returnless and return. You need the returnless one. If you don’t have it, you can probably get it from the junkyard from a flex-fuel truck or maybe a later model.

 

Yea, that's a darn respectable warranty! Shocking really.

 

Looking at the picture of the trans adapter it seems like it is about 1" thick, is there a spacer between the converter and flexplate, or between the crank and flexplate? How does all that fit up?

 

Came across these fuel rails on ebay thought they might help out folks that have fuel rails with a return on them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Z920-Fuel-R...1T-A9z&vxp=mtr

Ace - any thoughts on these and the hardware required to make them work with the existing Land Rover fuel line from the pump?
Might be possible to request that these are made with the exact fitting that would mate up with the stock Land Rover fuel line.

 

Look for a L92 in the junkyard and grab it and the injectors and all you need is a pig tail. Then use a 3/8 push-lock to barb adapter.

 

You're the man, Daedrix! Can you expand on where the pig tail would come from?

Part numbers for the fuel rail seem to be 12621662 or 12621663.
Anyone have the part numbers for the fuel injectors that are compatible with this fuel rail and the LM7/LM4 blocks?

 

Yea, I've sourced everything but the fuel rail so this would apply to me right now as well.

I've ordered my harness with connectors for multec already so I have to stick to those now..

I found two starters, one with two long bolts, one with a long and short, I'm told either works... kinda odd. I'm picking up the starter, cable throttle body and Red/Blue ECU Monday and then it's about time for installation of the engine.