Discovery 2 LS Conversion
#853
07-18-2020 | 10:21 AM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 461
Likes: 185
1. The 4-way lights turn on once the ignition is keyed on and then they won't shut of unless I pull the battery. I don't have a horn hooked up due to it malfunctioning earlier but maybe that's going off too. I never owned the FOB so I can't do much with the alarm if that's what's going on, I'll have to find a way around it. I've a feeling this is inertia switch/alarm related somehow, apparently there's a second switch in the alarm module too? One way or another it's something with the alarm or the inertia switch I think.
EDIT>>>> This was fixed by unlocking and re-locking the drivers door 3 times using the physical key.
2. M S lights are blinking, I'm sure I need to play with my crank position sensor. M&S lights blink BEFORE it's started though, when the ignition is turned on, perhaps I've a different issue.....
3. I also have no fuel pressure at all unless I jumper the relay psychically with a wire. When I do this, I can start the motor and it'll run on it's own, though a bit rough.
EDIT>>>>> Inertia switch had to be reset. Fuel issue solved I think, though strangely it also now works with the fuel relay completely removed.... head-scratcher on that one.
4. It won't go into DRIVE. It just blinks "D" on the dash as well as on the shifter itself. Anything but forward gears light up and engage fine.
EDIT>>>> This was fixed by unlocking and re-locking the drivers door 3 times using the physical key.
2. M S lights are blinking, I'm sure I need to play with my crank position sensor. M&S lights blink BEFORE it's started though, when the ignition is turned on, perhaps I've a different issue.....
3. I also have no fuel pressure at all unless I jumper the relay psychically with a wire. When I do this, I can start the motor and it'll run on it's own, though a bit rough.
EDIT>>>>> Inertia switch had to be reset. Fuel issue solved I think, though strangely it also now works with the fuel relay completely removed.... head-scratcher on that one.
4. It won't go into DRIVE. It just blinks "D" on the dash as well as on the shifter itself. Anything but forward gears light up and engage fine.
2. Check if you have tach reading first on the dash. If no tach then play with sensor position. If you have tach, then try clearing the transmission codes if you can. The M and S can stay on even if sensor is working properly if the computer has logged an error.
3. Glad that sorted.
4. This is due to the blinking M&S lights. When it is like this you only have 3rd for a forward gear. The transmission is in limp mode because of something. I think it needs to have the codes cleared, but this can come from low battery / XYZ switch also. If you read the transmission computer codes it will give you an idea of why the M&S lights are blinking, so that way you know where to start.
#854
07-18-2020 | 04:52 PM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 467
Likes: 114
From: Redmond, WA
Thanks for the response!
2. I do have a tach reading. I'll see what I can do to clear the codes.
4. Correct, 3rd gear only so it does appear to be a limp mode, now that you're saying the same thing, I'm quite sure that's what is going on. My battery shows 12.4 volts. XYZ I think I confirmed good by turning the wipers on and then putting the vehicle in reverse, when doing so the vehicle seems to know it's in reverse because it triggers the rear wiper to turn on, how clever of them! I'll try reading the codes, it's a little tricky now with many false codes on the LR due to the extra ECU stealing many sensors from it. I'm thinking my ECU programmer might have screwed me up by removing the check engine light function because the GM ecu is code free currently or maybe it truly is, not sure. The truck runs but stumbles, especially on initial startup, sometimes you gotta blip the throttle a few times before it will idle decently on it's own. I'll do some code reading on the LR side and see what I come up with. Thanks for this!
I should mention I have no O2 sensors installed because I've no exhaust yet past the headers but I'll be getting to that hopefully this next week. I HOPE to drive it to a muffler shop to have them done but if I can't get out of limp mode, I might re-think that unless folks tell me they think it's fine to make it there.
I do have some codes on the LR side ECU:
P0336 - Powertrain - Crankshaft position sensor A circuit range/position performance. **PENDING** I did move this around and I might have corrected it, maybe it'll be pending for a few cycles, not sure.
P0340 - Powertrain - camshaft position sensor A
P0444 - Powertrain - Evap control purge system control valve open
P1510 - Powertrain -Throttle Control System Performance <<<< This might be why my throttle learning isn't occurring and thus it starts rough and idles a bit low and rough, or maybe that's on the GM side... have to think on that for a few.
P1551 - Battery Current Sensor Circuit Low Input <<<< I hear this can cause all kinds of issues but my battery doesn't appear to be low from what I'm seeing.
P1884 - Engine Coolant Level Lamp Circuit Short to Ground
-Greg
2. I do have a tach reading. I'll see what I can do to clear the codes.
4. Correct, 3rd gear only so it does appear to be a limp mode, now that you're saying the same thing, I'm quite sure that's what is going on. My battery shows 12.4 volts. XYZ I think I confirmed good by turning the wipers on and then putting the vehicle in reverse, when doing so the vehicle seems to know it's in reverse because it triggers the rear wiper to turn on, how clever of them! I'll try reading the codes, it's a little tricky now with many false codes on the LR due to the extra ECU stealing many sensors from it. I'm thinking my ECU programmer might have screwed me up by removing the check engine light function because the GM ecu is code free currently or maybe it truly is, not sure. The truck runs but stumbles, especially on initial startup, sometimes you gotta blip the throttle a few times before it will idle decently on it's own. I'll do some code reading on the LR side and see what I come up with. Thanks for this!
I should mention I have no O2 sensors installed because I've no exhaust yet past the headers but I'll be getting to that hopefully this next week. I HOPE to drive it to a muffler shop to have them done but if I can't get out of limp mode, I might re-think that unless folks tell me they think it's fine to make it there.
I do have some codes on the LR side ECU:
P0336 - Powertrain - Crankshaft position sensor A circuit range/position performance. **PENDING** I did move this around and I might have corrected it, maybe it'll be pending for a few cycles, not sure.
P0340 - Powertrain - camshaft position sensor A
P0444 - Powertrain - Evap control purge system control valve open
P1510 - Powertrain -Throttle Control System Performance <<<< This might be why my throttle learning isn't occurring and thus it starts rough and idles a bit low and rough, or maybe that's on the GM side... have to think on that for a few.
P1551 - Battery Current Sensor Circuit Low Input <<<< I hear this can cause all kinds of issues but my battery doesn't appear to be low from what I'm seeing.
P1884 - Engine Coolant Level Lamp Circuit Short to Ground
-Greg
Last edited by 05TurboS2K; 07-18-2020 at 05:13 PM.
#855
07-18-2020 | 05:28 PM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 467
Likes: 114
From: Redmond, WA
ANOTHER AMAZING UPDATE!!!!!
Limp mode fixed! No lights on the dash! No codes!
-I do have a power-steering leak that looks to be the hose.
-I have a bad leak at the tapped to Mx-1.5 brass adapter on the back of the block for engine oil pressure (or was it temp?) that is leaking pretty steadily. That'll be a nightmare to remove and soemhow fix but at least I located it.
-My transmission has a soaking wet leaky oil pan as it did the day I got it but I'll dig into that and fix it, no biggy.
-Still need to clearance the drive shaft from the bell housing but I know what to do there. In the driveway, the clearance must be just a few thousandths if any. I'll be looking into my lift solution now that this is going to run and not get pushed off a cliff. LOL
Ready for exhaust and these fixes!!! Then I need to put together some walk-through tips for people and discuss some time saving advice etc.
Limp mode fixed! No lights on the dash! No codes!
-I do have a power-steering leak that looks to be the hose.
-I have a bad leak at the tapped to Mx-1.5 brass adapter on the back of the block for engine oil pressure (or was it temp?) that is leaking pretty steadily. That'll be a nightmare to remove and soemhow fix but at least I located it.
-My transmission has a soaking wet leaky oil pan as it did the day I got it but I'll dig into that and fix it, no biggy.
-Still need to clearance the drive shaft from the bell housing but I know what to do there. In the driveway, the clearance must be just a few thousandths if any. I'll be looking into my lift solution now that this is going to run and not get pushed off a cliff. LOL
Ready for exhaust and these fixes!!! Then I need to put together some walk-through tips for people and discuss some time saving advice etc.
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whowa004 (07-21-2020)
#856
07-19-2020 | 03:43 PM
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 34
Likes: 8
ANOTHER AMAZING UPDATE!!!!!
Limp mode fixed! No lights on the dash! No codes!
-I do have a power-steering leak that looks to be the hose.
-I have a bad leak at the tapped to Mx-1.5 brass adapter on the back of the block for engine oil pressure (or was it temp?) that is leaking pretty steadily. That'll be a nightmare to remove and soemhow fix but at least I located it.
-My transmission has a soaking wet leaky oil pan as it did the day I got it but I'll dig into that and fix it, no biggy.
-Still need to clearance the drive shaft from the bell housing but I know what to do there. In the driveway, the clearance must be just a few thousandths if any. I'll be looking into my lift solution now that this is going to run and not get pushed off a cliff. LOL
Ready for exhaust and these fixes!!! Then I need to put together some walk-through tips for people and discuss some time saving advice etc.
Limp mode fixed! No lights on the dash! No codes!
-I do have a power-steering leak that looks to be the hose.
-I have a bad leak at the tapped to Mx-1.5 brass adapter on the back of the block for engine oil pressure (or was it temp?) that is leaking pretty steadily. That'll be a nightmare to remove and soemhow fix but at least I located it.
-My transmission has a soaking wet leaky oil pan as it did the day I got it but I'll dig into that and fix it, no biggy.
-Still need to clearance the drive shaft from the bell housing but I know what to do there. In the driveway, the clearance must be just a few thousandths if any. I'll be looking into my lift solution now that this is going to run and not get pushed off a cliff. LOL
Ready for exhaust and these fixes!!! Then I need to put together some walk-through tips for people and discuss some time saving advice etc.
#858
07-19-2020 | 06:25 PM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 461
Likes: 185
If you don’t have tach, then you need to play with the position for the crank sensor. If you do have tach, limp home can stay on even if everything is alright if the computer tripped a code previously. So try resetting it. If you have a scanner that can clear the trans computer codes specifically, you can just use that to clear the transmission trouble codes and it will go out of limp mode. If you don’t have a scanner that will clear the trans specific codes, I believe you can disconnect the battery for 15 or so minutes and the computer memory will clear.
There is a list in the manual under step 8.
There is a list in the manual under step 8.
#860
07-19-2020 | 09:04 PM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 467
Likes: 114
From: Redmond, WA
Sorry!!!! Really should have updated that. It's a bummer when folks don't, then you go searching on a forum and they never give you the info that fixed your problem you're searching to solve.
Well my problem is solved but it has returned once so far and then gone again. All I've had to do to get out of limp mode is clear my codes via the LR ODBII port. The moment I clear em, I'm back in business for a while it seems. I figure enough to get my Disco down to the muffler shop a few miles out and have the exhaust done and get the O2 sensors in it. Maybe that'll mean it the issues don't return that cause the limp mode but it's a big maybe.
Well my problem is solved but it has returned once so far and then gone again. All I've had to do to get out of limp mode is clear my codes via the LR ODBII port. The moment I clear em, I'm back in business for a while it seems. I figure enough to get my Disco down to the muffler shop a few miles out and have the exhaust done and get the O2 sensors in it. Maybe that'll mean it the issues don't return that cause the limp mode but it's a big maybe.