I dont think your trans to LT230 adapter will last, the guys down here that have built similar adapters use 10mm plate and 5/6mm for their adapters.
At least add some bracing.

 

Any updates?

 

Do you mean the adapter looks weak or the goofy shaft, or both?
The shaft has really given me the most trouble.
My adapter is mostly 1/4" thick angle iron on one end (TC) and 3/16" plate on the transmission side. 4" I.D. steel pipe between the two. I thought it might flex and put the shaft in a bind, so I added back all the original mounting points for the transfer case plus one more. Even if it does flex a small amount, I have a 1350 U-Joint in the middle of the connector shaft which I hope will allow some flex in one plane with no binding of the shaft.


Oh yeah, I also added a cross member mount for the back of the transmission.

 

The swap portion of the build is DONE!
The truck is working very well on road and off.
I found the source of the 60mph vibration I had and that's fixed.
Front propshaft is working fine with NO double cardan joint.
Rear propshaft has two double cardan joints and is very heavy but seems to work just fine. (I really do not think it needs two joints).


My time (and money) are now being spent on making the truck somewhat more off-road capable. The off-road club I joined is extremely hard core and into rock climbing. The trails we have seem very advanced and somewhat difficult (at first anyway). So in order to keep up, I need to improve the trucks capability some, and my off-road driving skills a great deal! This weekend will be spent adding front and rear sway bar disconnects and longer brake lines. Also, I have to replace the mirror that was smashed during my flop over two weeks ago. (inexperienced driver + no spotter = flop going down hill) (sorry no pictures or video, my phone conveniently quit when it happened) All upgrade and repair parts sourced from Justin at Lucky 8, Thanks Justin!

 

How many miles on it so far? Have you determined your mpg?

 

This is intriguing as he'll. How much has this swap cost you and have you any rough numbers on horsepower/torque/ or mpg?

 

200 miles since the last driveshaft and connector shaft upgrade.
Really haven't checked mpg since I went back to the LT230. I think that gearing kills the fuel economy but it gives it a kick offroad.


Hard to check the mpg in low range, trans. in first and CDL locked with 32" mud tires, it's an offroad truck now.

 

Can you take some pics of the driveshafts in the truck - my understanding was the 4L60 series was too wide and you needed to use a 4L80 series which in my mind is too heavy. Wondering how close the shaft runs to the trans.

 

Have you had it WOT yet? I'm curious if the power of the 5.3 will break anything since I'm considering a turbo setup that will make a little more power than it will.

 

I really do need to give you guys that are seriously interested in doing this swap some real life dollar numbers. My actual dollar outlay is more than should be necessary for the next guy, (if you learn from my mistakes) but every build will be different according to what you like or need.


Horsepower is whatever a 2006 5.3L LM4 makes running 87 octane (my choice)


Torque would be maybe slightly more than the stock value for the donor engine since the LT230 is not 1:1 ratio.
See my answer above for mpg.


Donor Engine and Transmission Iron Block $750 or Alum. Block $1400 Your choice.
VSS adapter and gear from Jags that run $200
2 Propshafts from Tom Woods $750
Rotoflex Conversion (in you haven't done it already) $78
GM Transmission mount $14
New Accessory drive belt (ps pump relocated so its not stock length) $25
New aftermarket shifter and cable $250 (you can get a junkyard unit if you want)
Transmission cooler $100
Chevy truck aftermarket air cleaner and intake pipe $65
Misc. exhaust tubing $25
Two oxygen sensors and bungs $116
Radiator hoses $30
Car Transmission pan $30 (the truck pan will work if you take a BFH to the side of it)
F-Body oil pan $150
Misc. fuel line, cooler line and wire connectors $150
Modify AC hoses $150
UltraGauge (you should have already) $70
Computer reprogramming (I have a programmer) ???
Misc. steel to build or modify the following:
Move radiator
Modify front crossmember
Modify rear crossmember
Build new power steering pump mount
Mount GM accelerator pedal
Build/Modify motor mounts
Build transmission mount/crossmember
modify LT230 mounts
You may have to horse trade some for the correct exhaust manifolds (I used left one off a Camaro and the right one for a truck, others may work also)
You will have to design and build or have someone build your adapter and shaft to connect the transmission to the transfer case. A word of caution, if you move the transfer case farther back than 6" you will need longer Hi/Low shifter cable and parking brake cable.
Also, be very aware of how high you mount the engine, too low and the axle hits the oil pan sooner, too high and the hood won't close. (you would need a car intake).
You will need some moderate fab skills and equipment and good bit of time to spend on it.
The first thing you will need to wrap your head around is the fact that your truck will never have a Land Rover engine in it again, lots of wires will need to be cut and removed.
I'm sure I have left a bunch of stuff out. Good Luck, I am here to answer questions if I can.