Hi All,

New to the forum...long time lurker, first time poster...I am a heavy equipment diesel mechanic, (mostly on Caterpillar), but I'm not afraid to tackle anything.

I bought a used Freelander here in Canada, the little SUV is in nice shape for 163,000 kilometers.
It was misfiring and so I did the easy/cheap things to repair first, it had been sitting for a while, so I put a fresh tank of gas in it with some injector cleaner in it.
It got slightly better.
Next I pulled the plugs and noticed a couple of things, the coil boots were oily and the plugs seemed "ok" but looked "burnt" around the base of the porcelain, so I resealed the valve cover gaskets to stop the oil from getting into the plug wells, and replaced all the plugs with NGK iridium gapped to 0.040.
It got slightly better, now seemed to run good until the engine got a bit warmer.
I had noticed that the coil boots seemed to be a bit brittle, and I checked the resistance across the coils and they seemed to vary from coil to coil, so I changed all 6 coils with new NGK 48941.
It now runs good and strong for about 20 minutes, but once it warms up, as soon as I "push it" too hard, it starts to misfire again.
The check engine light has been on this entire time, without me being able to reset it by disconnecting the battery.
I recently bought a cheap Innova 3030RS diagnostic tool, which I highly recommend by the way, it has bluetooth which allows you to connect with a Repair Solutions app on your phone. It shows one "primary" code, and several stored codes.
The active, or primary code is a P0305 and the note attached to that code is "Pressure line solenoid 5 fault: short circuit to ground." Would this be a bad injector?

The most recent "stored code" is a P0300 Misfire on multiple cylinders. (Driving Cycle C)
Others previous codes in order are:
P0206 Injector circuit/open - cylinder 6.
P0606 ECM/PCM Processor last occurrence - plausibility.
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire detected: Last occurrence - maximum signal.
P0130 "Oxygen Sensor circuit slow response, upstream sensor bank A (Driving Cycle C)
P0050 ECU electrically erasable programmable read only memory fault.

I'm not sure how old these "stored" codes are, so I will erase them now that I have them stored in my Repair Solutions App.

Sorry for the long post, but I figured the more info the better for the Land Rover Guru's to look into. As a mechanic I certainly appreciate more info than "it misfires when it warms up".

My next inclination was to look at getting a new CKP Sensor, as that seems to be the common one that gets the misfire on multiple cylinders when it warms up symptoms. Or should I look at injectors and a fuel pump first, I seem to have good fuel pressure, as when I have removed and checked out the injectors, I had to release a lot of fuel rail pressure even after it sitting a while.

Thoughts?

Thanks for any and all input!

John

 

Quick update, I cleared all the codes, check engine light went out, took it for a 5 minute drive, it was cold when I started, and then stopped in at a store to grab a few things, came out 5-10 minutes later and took the five minute drive home, and the check engine light came back on about half way home.
Checked the diagnostic codes when I got home and it was the P0130 "Oxygen Sensor circuit slow response, upstream sensor Bank A (Driving Cycle C).
Does this mean I have a bad O2 sensor?

 

Another update, changed out the Crank and Cam Sensors, no change. It runs great for about 10 minutes and then the first code to show up is the P0130, and followed shortly by the P0206, and then the P0305.
This is consistently repeatable, both before I replace the Crank and Cam sensors, and after. Apparently it is not the Crank and Cam sensors causing the problem. It doesn't make a difference if I idle it around the neighborhood for ten minutes, or take it out on the highway, as soon as it is warmed up, it starts misfiring, and these codes show up in the same order. The O2 sensors are all new, replaced right before I bought the SUV, and so I haven't messed with them at all, other than to clean the connectors to all the sensors/components involved and checking the wiring to see if anything is rubbed through.
My next step is going to be swapping the A Bank upstream O2 sensor with the B Bank upstream O2 sensor to see if the code follows the sensor. I'm at a loss for what else could be causing this.
Since I'm not getting any replies on here, I will document my process so at least it should help someone else...

 

So I went to swap the A Bank and the B bank O2 sensors, I assume that A Bank would be towards the front of the vehicle as that's where cylinder 1, 3, and 5 are, I had checked and tested this O2 sensor and wiring extensively.When I went to remove the rear (B) sensor, and the connector fell apart in my hand, I repaired the connection, swapped positions on the sensors, and the O2 Sensor Fault went away.
The bad miss started up again though, and the first code to come up was the P0206. That injector is hidden under the plastic intake plenum so off it came, checked the connection on the injector and the spring clip was missing from the connector and the connector was almost fully disconnected. I found a spare metal spring clip, bolted the intake back on and now after 50 kms of driving there is no miss, no check engine light and lots of power. There is still a P0305 code pending, but that's as far as it has gone, but not causing any issues at this point.

 

You may no longer visit this forum, Fauxnali, but I for one found your postings very helpful. I'm about to purchase a 2005 FL with low kilometres (and I may live to regret this decision!).... and the current owner has parked it due to "multiple misfires." Your step by step approach will be a good reference. (I'm in Winnipeg.)

 

Hi, I was a member of this forum a very long time ago when I owned a D1. I currently have a 05 Freelander which I've had since 15,000 miles and it currently has almost 100,000 . Around 60,000 miles coming back from a very lengthy trip, it developed severe misfiring and stumbled home on the interstate. It was basically bad coil packs which were the original since the vehicle was new.

I believe since then it threw a code indicating possibly a bad coil pack but couldn't detect anything unusual so been driving it since then (about 20,000 miles) and was fine until the other day when a one of the coil packs was removed to inspect inside for a unrelated issue (coolent leak) and at the same time air filter replaced. Right after that work performed, the car shifted from 1st to 2nd at very high RPM's and shift points weren't right. For a while once reaching 70 mph, all seemed right for an hr and then all of a sudden the car struggled to maintain 40-50mph esp on an uphill grade on the interstate. When I got near home all issues disappeared and now for the last day running fine. I have to read whatever code was thrown since the service engine soon light which has been constantly on started to block during this episode of loosing power

Either something with fuel injectors not firing enough fuel (clogged) or simply need to replace coil packs (again)....as a initial guess. Only other major issue with the car in its entire life has been a coolent leak twice and the main culprit was that reservoir tank and the exit hose.