after checking some things this weekend i found that i have 1.5v on the bk/yel wire out of ecu which is supposed to be signal wire from cps...i have no voltage on red wire or pk/red...is that correct?? ALSO, someone has repaired(?) the cps harness using 14ga wire. is this harness not supposed to be sheilded? where can i get this rave manual? and would anyone have an engine harness going to cam sens...crank sens over to cpu? many thanks,steve toxoscar@aol.com

 

Just type in RAVE manual in the google search tool and you will find a link to it, sorry I do not have it ready right now.

I may have a harness but it may be missing somethings off of it already so it may not be the best to work with. I think it should be shielded wire though. If it has already been repaired then the repair may be not be all that good.

I would download the Rave and then see what it says in the voltages. Then maybe redo the repair on the damaged wires again and see what happens. I will check my harness when I get home and see what is all there and get back to you.

 

i found the rave manual by google as you suggested...i also found an intact harness on e-bay for 110.00... it should arrive by the weekend i hope. i have 2 ecu's...the oem and another i aquired with the same nnn600 number. i have been told that it nust be 'coded' in order to work. is that true and how would i do that?? my becm has been unlocked and will supposedly work on any p38. i do have 12v on the immobilzer wire from becm to ecu(becm conn c112 pin 5). again,thanks for your help,steve toxoscar@aol.com

 

If you are getting a new harness then you should be good. I am not sure how the ECU would make a difference but we can cross that when it comes. I am willing to bet the new harness will fix your problem though.

 

i was crawling around underneath this thing last night to see what all is involved in changing the eng harness and noticed that is goes all the way back to neautral safety switch. last year...the front drive shaft fell out on the road due to a failed u-joint...destroying the shaft, bending the trans sump and damaging the neutral switch. a used switch was put on...shaft replaced and it was on it's way again. i do have a gearbox fault in message center. could this in any way be related to my no-start condition? i know that most neutral switches act as a starter interrupt to prevent cranking in gear, and the starter engages fine,but could this in any way disrupt ign fire and inj pulse?? thanks,toxoscar@aol.com/steve

 

my '00 p38 lives again!!! I changed the engine harness this weekend which actually was not too hard...just time consuming. also found the crank sensor was improperly installed...by Land Rover Hilton Head,SC!!! I found another cut wire in the old harness...have no idea what it goes to. However, got it all put in and it lit right up and runs great after a full year at rest. I cannot thank all of you enough for your responses and advice...you have been most helpful!!!
Thanks again! Steve





2000 range rover p38
156k rides again!

 

I am glad to hear that it is running again. See I knew it was still related to the CPS. Let us know if you have any other problems as I am sure there will be after it has been sitting for a year.

 

my 2000 p38 won't start. My question is if the red wire of the CPS from ECU should supply 5 volt. Mine only measured 0.013v. I have another used ECU and it read the same with 0.013v.

I checked the CPS harness and repaired it again. I think the harness connection is good. I also swapped 3 different CPS.

The full story of how this problem started; at first I got car battery problem. The battery died with only 2 years of life (I expected at least 3 years with my care). Before it died, I had fault code about Crank Sensor Circuit. I reset the code after I replaced the battery and that code never came back. After replaced the battery, it started a few times then cranked but wouldn't start. Check Engine Light was on at position 2. So I assume BECM was synced. Jumped the fuel pump relay and fuel pump is working fine. So I checked the CPS harness again and tighten all connects. After that it came back for a few times, cranked and started without a problem. So I was happy and wrapping and tucking back the harness nicely, Final check, it cranking strong but won't start again. Then, I carefully checked the connectivity of the red/pink/black wire for CPS. I cut the red wire from the ECU socket to confirm the voltage output from ECU and to confirm the resistant of the red wire from the cut point to the sensor. No 5v from red wire. I even borrowed 5v from another 5v red wire source coming out from the ECU harness but it didn't start. Now I run out of idea what to do next.