I just picked up a 02' RR HSE with 70K on it, For a great deal..

Car had a blown HG *surprise*

I checked the car out a few days ago, all the electronics were working ect.. But it didn't have enough cranking amps to turn the car over.. I go to pick it up Yesterday and the Person I bought it from took the battery out of it when I came to pick it up, So they knocked an extra $50 off the price for me..


I just got it home and Unloaded Last night, Put in a battery out of our 00' HSE and the car started freaking out when I turned the key on.. It would try and kick the EAS on then, everything would go dead, a few seconds later everything would turn back on and relays all over the car are popping on and off like crazy even in the doors.. I checked all the fuses they are good and none of the relays are burnt... This sounds like a BCM problem

Is this battery just too weak, It's too old ect... and these are side effects of the soon to be dead battery? BTW it starts the Other Rover now perfectly Little slow on the cranking But it still fires up..

I picked up a New Battery from Interstate This afternoon In hopes of putting it in and not having any problems..

Anything I should do Before I install this new battery?


Where do you recommend I start...?

Thank you for your time.

 

Tell us what happens with the new battery, because that may or may not be the problem.

 

Ok, Installed the new battery. I cleaned the terminal connectors really well, they were corroded and funky... Hooked up the new battery, and did the unlock/lock 5 times because the Screen was saying all sorts of crazy things. After that reset all the warning went away, everything acted fine.

I have never seen a BCM freak out like that because of a low battery, but Now I know

I turned the motor over and it started right up.. no misfires or anything.. But theres no water in the motor so I didn't let it run for long.


Tonight I'm going to pull the heads off and get the Head gasket/head rebuild underway..

 

Ok, Got the heads off last night at around 9:30

Ughh... Never seen this before on a LR. I've seen dropped cylinder liners, and just about everything else go wrong but never this..

both rear cylinders are toast.. The back side of the piston near the water jacket has completely eroded, there is about a half dollar size chunk missing off the top.

I've seen this on Turbo motors, High compression race engines.. Never a LR... Just my luck lol..

I guess the head gasket was leaking for a long time, and the previous owner just kept pouring water in too keep it from "overheating" and that in time eroded the pistons...

Need a short block...

 

Yeah the battery will cause all sorts of issues and make things go crazy.

I hope you got a great deal on that Rover since it has all those issues. Good luck with the short block, that is a lot of work.

 

Yea I paid $1500 for the truck, and It's in really nice shape, has all of the options before they changed to the newer trucks..

I Drove to Charlotte today 4 hrs there 2 hrs at the junk yard, and 4hrs back... Man it was a long day...

But I got a new Short block that is in great shape for $400 bucks...
I just got done Ordering new Rings, and bearings to rebuild this one..

I've looked in the Manuals and everywhere. I can't seem to find out if the Main cap bolts are One time use bolts like the head gaskets.. Since their final torque values are in Degrees, that usually indicates that the bolts are stretched to achieve the final torque..

Should I get new rod bolts, Main cap bolts and Flex plate bolts?

 

Some engines you can re-use them and some you can't. I would error on the safe side and get new bolts. Its a cheap investment to make sure you get it right.

 

Also, This is my 1st Rover engine pull, I've been lucky enough to avoid it all these years..

I have the Engine down to well, Just the engine.. the heads are off all the oil lines are disconnected, all of the accessories are tucked away to the side..

Can I leave the gear box in and pull the motor out, there looks to be plenty of room if I take the motor mounts out while suspending the engine.. And slide it forward *after unfastening the converter bolts..

Or does pulling it all out work better? I'd like to be lazy as possible, and leave the Air conditioning lines charged and the radiator and trans/oil coolers in the truck..