1. new head gaskets, still overheating.
#1
07-11-2012, 08:24 PM
1. new head gaskets, still overheating.
Kevin in Minneapolis
1999 Range Rover P38 Gems 4.0
- I just finished doing new head gaskets
- I am an amateur
- job seems to be success, but it still overheats, but not all the way to red
- I have not "bled" the cooling system. Mike said super easy, undo the "relief" screw on top of the radiator, but there isn't one. Suggestions? I don't know cooling systems real well.
Secondly, the sunroof was open and it rained and now no windows / mirrors on switches on the console. I cannot believe there is not a fuse/breaker, but with LandRover, I suppose anything is possible. So ... am I screwed? Do I have to get a new circuit board and try? Where else can I look? Relays?
All help/advice gratefully recieved. And don't be afraid to call. I just want to stop wasting hours on wild goose chases. Thanks in advance,
Kevin O'Callaghan
kevin@dokdoc.com (will get this sooner than on forum)
Cell 612 709 2221
1999 Range Rover P38 Gems 4.0
- I just finished doing new head gaskets
- I am an amateur
- job seems to be success, but it still overheats, but not all the way to red
- I have not "bled" the cooling system. Mike said super easy, undo the "relief" screw on top of the radiator, but there isn't one. Suggestions? I don't know cooling systems real well.
Secondly, the sunroof was open and it rained and now no windows / mirrors on switches on the console. I cannot believe there is not a fuse/breaker, but with LandRover, I suppose anything is possible. So ... am I screwed? Do I have to get a new circuit board and try? Where else can I look? Relays?
All help/advice gratefully recieved. And don't be afraid to call. I just want to stop wasting hours on wild goose chases. Thanks in advance,
Kevin O'Callaghan
kevin@dokdoc.com (will get this sooner than on forum)
Cell 612 709 2221
#2
07-12-2012, 06:10 AM
Super Moderator
Overheating is right, the gauge is optimistic, get a scanner or ultra gauge so you will know exactly. Beyond mid point is trouble area.
See attached flow diagram. Water flows thru heater core and from the "T" entering the radiator. These samples warm up the main thermostat, so it will open. If heater core is restricted or trash has circulated into thermostat, these holes can be clogged and the stat won't open at the right time. Would suggest new thermsotat, it is a four hose model, ask if an alternative temp, like 82C, is available.
If rad or heater core is clogged/sludged, can also overheat. Main rad will show up as colder by more than 10F on the bottom rows. If commercial flush won't do it, then replace.
I would think if when cold, with truck parked with right side up, like on a curb or ramp, you might be able to remove the hose #16 carefully from the radiator. Adding coolant until all air escapes from that spot. You are correct, no bleeder may be present. Saves more money for the bean counterz to quantify. Replace hose, and run for a short time with coolant cap off (not when warmed up).
Also, while all this fun was underway with your truck, serpantine belt could be routed wrong, fan blades messed up or backwards, etc., viscous fan clutch dead, electric condenser fan(s) not working, etc.
From a quick peek at the electrical diagram, the BECM monitors all those switches, and if they are full of water it believes you are pressing down multiple switches at one time, and it most likely will just inhibit. You may be able to get some relief when they all dry out, or you may have to remove and spray them with electrical ciruit cleaner.
See attached flow diagram. Water flows thru heater core and from the "T" entering the radiator. These samples warm up the main thermostat, so it will open. If heater core is restricted or trash has circulated into thermostat, these holes can be clogged and the stat won't open at the right time. Would suggest new thermsotat, it is a four hose model, ask if an alternative temp, like 82C, is available.
If rad or heater core is clogged/sludged, can also overheat. Main rad will show up as colder by more than 10F on the bottom rows. If commercial flush won't do it, then replace.
I would think if when cold, with truck parked with right side up, like on a curb or ramp, you might be able to remove the hose #16 carefully from the radiator. Adding coolant until all air escapes from that spot. You are correct, no bleeder may be present. Saves more money for the bean counterz to quantify. Replace hose, and run for a short time with coolant cap off (not when warmed up).
Also, while all this fun was underway with your truck, serpantine belt could be routed wrong, fan blades messed up or backwards, etc., viscous fan clutch dead, electric condenser fan(s) not working, etc.
From a quick peek at the electrical diagram, the BECM monitors all those switches, and if they are full of water it believes you are pressing down multiple switches at one time, and it most likely will just inhibit. You may be able to get some relief when they all dry out, or you may have to remove and spray them with electrical ciruit cleaner.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 07-12-2012 at 06:14 AM.
#3
07-13-2012, 10:07 AM
Much appreciated, and thanks for being clear - not everyone is on these forums. Just picked up a new radiator today, $300. Will install and see. Is there a "cleaner" I should put through the system first before refilling? Should I use the garden hose to run thru the heater core? THanks again!
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