My 2005 L322 recently went to my normal shop to have a clunk in the suspension rectified. Thye disconnected the battery and now if the key is removed from the ignition, when reinserted it won't turn - as if it is not paired with the car. Doesn't matter if it is main or spare key.

Only way to get it to work is to disconnect battery negative for 10 mins, reconnect and then it all works - but still have to keep key in ignition, which means can't lock the truck also.

An ideas folks

 

That shop should repair what they broke, or pay for your trip to dealer (or a place with a dealer level computer) that can re-program things. There is a separate ECU for immobilization, and the designers have made it quite complicated, talking to other modules in code so you can't straight wire it, etc. Perhaps the pickup coil around the ignition switch will pickup a key held in that immediate area? That would allow you to duct tape the spare to the steering column and lock the truck?

Or perhaps somehow it is back to "transport mode" - how they are shipped overseas. There may be a sequence to clear that mode.

Some have suggested that on the more sophisticated trucks care be taken to use an second 12 volt battery with jumper cable on the battery wires when changing, so the truck never has a power loss.

 

hi i got a range rover 2004 and the message came up air suspension inactive.
i book it in to the dealer to get the air suspension reset. the dealer then told me to bring it back next week. i then drove home park the car and the car will not start after a few hour when the dealer put there tool on.the sat nav unit cut ou and the central locking will not work and the key will not start car or turn engine over,i even try to jump start no joy . any suggestion please

 

If you have disconnected the battery for any time - even 10 minutes, when you reconnect it the air suspension inactive warning will come up. You have to turn wheel full lock to left, then right and back to centre to reset these things.

Other than getting car back to dealer, I would suggest that you try disconnecting negative lead from battery, wait ten minutes, reconnect and then try to start. It may not solve all your problems but it might get you in a position to drive back t the dealer at least.

Try checking battery condition as well as a weak/old battery where voltage is too low can cause similar issues I have read.

One last possibility is to remove Fuse 18 (Immobiliser), assuming it is in good condition wait ten minutes then put it back.

Best of luck.

 

Here's wiring diagram for immobilisation and cranking. While 18 is one place to check, would look at all other fuses shown here as well. If 18 was bad, would suspect that Immobilze CPU would have no way to connect battery plus from fuse link 2 to the interlock relay. Note that even the steering wheel lock has an ECU, engineers run amok.

 

thanks i left it and i went back to it ato day and it started again fine. but the key remote will not work

 

replace the remote battery work quickly you 20 seconds to swap it,
or so i have read

 

The light for the remote still flashes. So I guess battery ok.
Can some one tell md how to resest the central locking on the key fob.

 

I know that this post is from a while back now, but as i now know this problem will become ever more common, i guess some may come across it during a search for a possible solution.

I have recently put together a document that details the symptoms and cause of the problem together with a possible cheap and easy fix for this problem that i would freely share with you.


http://www.blackbox-solutions.com/photos/L322lock.pdf

I hope this helps

ATB

Colin

 

Great info Colin!
Thanks for sharing this