96 4.0 Q and A (hopefully) - shifting and temp probs.
#11
01-22-2009, 02:23 PM
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RE: 96 4.0 Q and A (hopefully) - shifting and temp probs.
first, it's hard to imagine somone would rebuild an engine that has overheated without replacing a water pump and at least checking the thermostat and radiator and belt! That said, it sounds as though you may have an air lock in the system, they can be hard to bleed out properly as the filler is lower than the top hose? We often have to raise the rf to get good gravity pressure thjen pumpthe lower hose (ENGINE OFF). Any overheating problem orjust a signal, can cause transmission problems, are there anyfault codes or check enginelights on?the serpentine belt,even if a little cracked ( it should be replaced anyway) would not cause the problem just make sure it is routed properly.
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Honda VF700S
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Honda VF700S
Last edited by bonnettoboot; 01-26-2011 at 11:04 AM.
#12
02-04-2009, 09:23 PM
RE: 96 4.0 Q and A (hopefully) - shifting and temp probs.
Well I have not really had much of a chance to do anything. The belt is routed properly and there are no signs of cracks or wear (as I said it is only a month old now when the water pump was replaced).
I would like to see if there is an airlock in the system. After reading up on them I am starting to think that is the problem (or hope it is the problem). However I can not find any information on how how to do this (in a way I would understand). Can you please explain to me (with the right front of the car elevated how high above the left???) how to pump the lower hose (which to be honest I have no idea what that is or where it is)? If there is a link to how to do this or if anyone can walk me through it I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again for the input.
The check engine light is on (but that has been on since the engine was replaced) and it says to travel less than 35 MPH (which came on after disconnecting the Air suspension pump allowing the vehicle to sit at one height only).
Like I said (or remember saying) this only happens when the car is idling and there are no coolant leaks. new water pump and belt. I imagine I have to change the oil since the car has been overheating at times (for no more than 1 minute) when in traffic or at a long light. As soon as I start to drive the temp returns to normal.
I would like to see if there is an airlock in the system. After reading up on them I am starting to think that is the problem (or hope it is the problem). However I can not find any information on how how to do this (in a way I would understand). Can you please explain to me (with the right front of the car elevated how high above the left???) how to pump the lower hose (which to be honest I have no idea what that is or where it is)? If there is a link to how to do this or if anyone can walk me through it I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again for the input.
The check engine light is on (but that has been on since the engine was replaced) and it says to travel less than 35 MPH (which came on after disconnecting the Air suspension pump allowing the vehicle to sit at one height only).
Like I said (or remember saying) this only happens when the car is idling and there are no coolant leaks. new water pump and belt. I imagine I have to change the oil since the car has been overheating at times (for no more than 1 minute) when in traffic or at a long light. As soon as I start to drive the temp returns to normal.
#13
02-14-2009, 11:08 AM
Hi all. I am new to the forums but have been reading for a little while now.
I have a little problem with my 96 4.0 and would appreciate some input, especially if you have had a similar problem. Actually there are a couple of problems (when are there not though). The car has aprox. 66,000 miles.
Problem #1 appeared several weeks ago. When I start the car (warm or not) and start driving the car (in Drive) sticks in second gear. I am moving along and then all of a sudden there is no more acceleration. If I give it a little more gas the revs don't move up nor does the car accelerate (but you definitely feel like it wants to). Either I wait for the car to shift itself (which can be minutes) or I give the accelerator a fast push down as if I were flooring it then ease up (at this point the car moves into the next gear and performs normally). If this has any bearing - The Engine is new, it was replaced about three months ago after the block cracked.
Problem #2 The water pump recently went. Ordered a replacement and had the mechanic install it. I get the car back and it is fine for about a week. I noticed that the car smelled of coolant when it was running warm. I did not notice the temp high at all so assumed it was just some left over smell from when it was leaking. Then later that night I saw that the car was overheating. I parked the car for a second to look under it if there was a leak or any steam and did not see any. As I started to drive the car back to my house (did not wait for it to cool off... I was in a rush) the temp went back down. This happened about two or three more times. The car overheated when I was mostly sitting still and then when I went to drive it it went back down. The smell also seemed to go away when I was driving.
Problem 2a. Not sure if this is related to this but I figure maybe someone would know. About a day after the temp thing started the car seemed to almost stall out after starting it and the oil pressure light went on until I gave it a little gas. The oil is at the appropriate level and recently changed. it idles at aprx. 2k rev's when cold (which seems high to me). I have not noticed this oil pressure problem again but it did happen a couple times in the same day where the car seemed like it was going to stall (while the engine was hot and cold).
Okay so there are my two main problems (maybe three). I am no mechanic (as you can probably tell) so if if you can afford the time and proper advice I would appreciate any detailed input if there is something I would have to do myself to try and resolve this.
Thanks in advance
I have a little problem with my 96 4.0 and would appreciate some input, especially if you have had a similar problem. Actually there are a couple of problems (when are there not though). The car has aprox. 66,000 miles.
Problem #1 appeared several weeks ago. When I start the car (warm or not) and start driving the car (in Drive) sticks in second gear. I am moving along and then all of a sudden there is no more acceleration. If I give it a little more gas the revs don't move up nor does the car accelerate (but you definitely feel like it wants to). Either I wait for the car to shift itself (which can be minutes) or I give the accelerator a fast push down as if I were flooring it then ease up (at this point the car moves into the next gear and performs normally). If this has any bearing - The Engine is new, it was replaced about three months ago after the block cracked.
Problem #2 The water pump recently went. Ordered a replacement and had the mechanic install it. I get the car back and it is fine for about a week. I noticed that the car smelled of coolant when it was running warm. I did not notice the temp high at all so assumed it was just some left over smell from when it was leaking. Then later that night I saw that the car was overheating. I parked the car for a second to look under it if there was a leak or any steam and did not see any. As I started to drive the car back to my house (did not wait for it to cool off... I was in a rush) the temp went back down. This happened about two or three more times. The car overheated when I was mostly sitting still and then when I went to drive it it went back down. The smell also seemed to go away when I was driving.
Problem 2a. Not sure if this is related to this but I figure maybe someone would know. About a day after the temp thing started the car seemed to almost stall out after starting it and the oil pressure light went on until I gave it a little gas. The oil is at the appropriate level and recently changed. it idles at aprx. 2k rev's when cold (which seems high to me). I have not noticed this oil pressure problem again but it did happen a couple times in the same day where the car seemed like it was going to stall (while the engine was hot and cold).
Okay so there are my two main problems (maybe three). I am no mechanic (as you can probably tell) so if if you can afford the time and proper advice I would appreciate any detailed input if there is something I would have to do myself to try and resolve this.
Thanks in advance
Problem No 1 could be a bad TPS, this would cause erratic shifting since the trans computer monitors the tps position and adjusts shifts accordingly.
No2, If you can't see any visible signs of coolant loss, i'd be guessing an airlock in the system. As someone else suggested, raise the right corner of the car on a concrete block or such and pump the lower right radiator hose by hand. This will expel air in the system out into the resevoir.
Regards the smell, check your carpet in the P/S footwell at the front left. O-rings on the heater core may be leaking.
2a, The car should not be idling at 2k rpm, it should fast idle from cold up to around 1200 then quickly cycle down to around 700rpm.
If I had to guess, that TPS may be at fault or the shop that has done your work has not set the vehicle operating parameters properly.
BTW. DO NOT drive the car if the temp needle goes the wrong side of the twelve o-clock position. You are running the risk of damaging the engine.
Chris.
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