99' Range Rover HSE Starting Issues...
#1
99' Range Rover HSE Starting Issues...
Our P38 the other day decided it didn't want to start.. SO I tried resetting the security system with the 1515 Code.. It did nothing.. I tried swapping in a known good battery..
I swapped the starter today because, I couldn't think of anything else...
still would not turn over..
I manually jumped the starter relay under the hood, and the solenoid activated..
Any Ideas?
I think the stupid security stuff is still getting in the way.. What should I do... are there any known hard resets?
Jordan
I swapped the starter today because, I couldn't think of anything else...
still would not turn over..
I manually jumped the starter relay under the hood, and the solenoid activated..
Any Ideas?
I think the stupid security stuff is still getting in the way.. What should I do... are there any known hard resets?
Jordan
#2
If it was the security it would be telling you in the center display, and would say "alarm fault" "engine disabled" or "push remote or use code" etc, Is it the GEMS or Bosch model? Do you hear any audible clicks? Have you checked the starter for operation? Checked fuses relays etc.?
Last edited by LRScott; 12-15-2009 at 07:22 PM.
#3
#4
If it was the security it would be telling you in the center display, and would say "alarm fault" "engine disabled" or "push remote or use code" etc, Is it the GEMS or Bosch model? Do you hear any audible clicks? Have you checked the starter for operation? Checked fuses relays etc.?
As of right now the Car has a Brand new starter.. I jumped it @ the relay and the starter is engaging.
This Rover is a GEMS model...
Yea I thought about the Relay 1st Grabbed on from one of the other Rovers, didn't help...
when i turn the key it does everything normal.. Fuel pump kicks, Accumulator pump turns on for a few sec.. Everything is normal..
Yes the door lights come on, everything works but the stupid Clarion radio, which hasn't worked for a month now..
Thanks for the support guys... I'm welcome to all ideas...
#5
#6
I would check if when you turn the key to start do you get 12v at the relay? Do you have a good ground at the relay socket? One other test is to turn on the headlights, and then turn the key to start. The lights should turn off. If not, I would suspect the ignition switch.
Thanks for the thoughts, I am pretty sure they turn off, because the HVAC and radio turn off when I try and start the car... But I will check when I get home...
Thanks again
Lets keep the Ideas going guys
#7
Obviously the starter is not getting the signal to spin, I would get a manual and start tracing the hiring harness and check all connections.
I was thinking about maybe the neitral safety switch switch or something stopping it but if you can remove the key then that should not be it. With that thought, have you tried to start it in nuetral?
I was thinking about maybe the neitral safety switch switch or something stopping it but if you can remove the key then that should not be it. With that thought, have you tried to start it in nuetral?
#8
Obviously the starter is not getting the signal to spin, I would get a manual and start tracing the hiring harness and check all connections.
I was thinking about maybe the neitral safety switch switch or something stopping it but if you can remove the key then that should not be it. With that thought, have you tried to start it in nuetral?
I was thinking about maybe the neitral safety switch switch or something stopping it but if you can remove the key then that should not be it. With that thought, have you tried to start it in nuetral?
Tried the Neutral start 2 days ago..
The relay is getting 12v, but isn't getting the signal.. I checked the Signal wire right off the BCM... It's not getting any current At all.. And the wire going from the ignition to the BCM is working...
So my BCM is ****ed...
This is a very interesting problem.. My fuel pump is still kicking on and the starter/fuel pump are on the same circuit inside the BCM...
The connectors going into the BCM are good to go.. I am going to Open the Computer up tomorrow and look for burnt traces or pads.. or burnt/leaking capacitors ect..
If that doesn't work I'm sending my BCM off for a 500 repair...
Thanks for all the help guys..
#10
Just because the BECM is not sending the signal to the relay doesn't necessarily mean that the BECM is shot. The BECM could be missing a signal from some other sensor which is telling it not to send the + to the relay. That would be my guess. I think a lot of BECMs get replaced even though there is nothing wrong with them. Just something to think about. If you pull up the electrical section on Rave, you can see what each wire going into the BECM is supposed to do.