See my followup in post number 10 below for instructions.
See post number 2 below for down load of RAVE technical manuals for Land Rover.

Does anyone know how to disable the super lock?

I have been driving an aging 1996 Range Rover for just over a year. In the last year I have had two doors and the rear hatch become intermittently stuck in super lock mode. Currently all doors are out of super lock mode. The left rear door suddenly decided to start opening again this week after spending two months super locked. I immediately switched the key fob for a plain key and am leaving the vehicle unlocked until I get a solution sorted out.

I regularly have children in the back and having any door stuck in super lock is a real safety issue.

EDIT: I expected people to have some familiarity with this problem. I should have stated that the reason for the problem is the intermittent failure of the lock control units inside of the doors. This is a common issue in many older Land Rovers with the super lock feature, particularly in those operated in dusty, cold, and/or humid environments. Replacing the lock control units is expensive with parts and labor easily running a few hundred dollars per door. Spraying failing units with WD-40 or any oil is foolish and exasperates the problem; while initially possibly freeing some stuck units the oil attracts more dust and dirt speeding up total failure. Spraying the units with a dry silicone or graphite compound can increase the service life of failing units, however they remain failing units prone to lockup at anytime.

I want to disable the super lock function. I understand this can be done through programming, however I would prefer to: pull a fuse, pull a relay, or cut a wire; even if I have to cut wires in all four doors and the hatch.

EDIT: With the super lock disabled in the un-super-locked position everything associated with the doors, alarm, etc. should continue to work as before, except for no super lock. When a door control unit fails I will have to unlock that door with the manual inside lock button or in the case of the drivers door use the key. I assure you leaning over to unlock a door or using the key is a fine solution compared to spending a thousand plus dollars buying and installing four new door control units.

I do not have a shop manual or wiring schematics, but would like to acquire both if anyone has them available (electronic or print)? EDIT: Thanks, got them now.

Does anyone know how to disable the super lock? I need to get it correct the first time because if start using the fob again and I or one of the kids accidentally super locks the doors odds are at least one door will not disengage properly.

EDIT: Apparently all that I need to do is cut four specific (orange w/ pink, OK) wires. Two for the rear doors located under the front passenger seat and one located inside each front door. The super lock motor in each door is controlled by one specific wire (orange w/ pink, OK) and a common. As the doors are currently un-super-locked this will be simple. I will report back when I have done this.

EDIT: Now what do I do about the rear hatch that stuck closed half of last winter then suddenly started working?

Thanks

 

It appears to me that the BeCM signals the outstation in the door, and that device drives the lock motor and super lock motor. I believe if you cut the orange & pink wire on connector C758 right or left you will disable superlock. On the rear doors the wire comes from the BECM, but it is still the orange & pink color. Both wiring diagrams attached from RAVE. For the rears, getting to BECM may be easier than removing two door panels.

Lock motors work by DC voltage, applied in one polarity the motor turns one direction. Reverse the polarity, the motor reverses and un-locks. So one motor does two functions. One motor for central locking, a separate motor for superlocking.

Wire pinouts vary by year, but it seems from RAVE that Orange & Pink remains the superlock.

Now also consider that this might be a simple re-program, how much is your time worth, how comfortable are you with door panel removal, vehicle down time, etc.? A call to an indy shop may yield a reasonable price. If possible, on the same nickle I'd pay to have alarm and/or immobilization turned off if that is an option. I don't transport treasure for the Royals (wonder what kind of mpg a bullet proof Rover gets?), I don't live in a neighborhood where you must take your engine block inside each night, and my neighbors all have scopes.....

 

take the latches out and file down the white part on the latch that superlocks the damn thing. its a white cog that you have to break to get the latch apart in the first place.

 

Looking at the diagrams if you pull Fuses f9, f14,f15 and f22 will this give teh same results. And can this be the source of my problem with the thing thinking the key is in the ignition switch.

 

Just take it to the dealer, they can usually fix this problem within an hour and only costing around $150. I know who wants to pay that for reseting some codes...not me.

 

I called ours and was told that the SUPERLOCKING on the 2001 P38 was NOT a program problem BUT a fault in the LOCKING system. It also could be the Ignition switch or BAD door locks. Translation, $200.00 to look and see PLUS PARTS

 

It is not too much easy to unlock super lock or break its security because it have most top modern features. More then one security tricks like biometric plus hidden code are need to give at the same time for unlock it.

 

Janifer - please post correct information if possible. A 1996 vehicle is unlikely to have biometrics, etc.

 

I doubt it is a super lock issue. If it's in superlock none of the doors will work. My guess is he just have bad door actuators. But this is a P38 using a BECM so all bets are off.

 

Disabling the Super Locking of all Doors for a 1996 Land Rover Range Rover, other years and models are similar.

Thanks to those who responded with on topic and helpful information, particularly the links to the RAVE manual downloads. No thanks to the less than helpful who responded with obtuse comments, particularly those who thought going to the dealer was an appropriate response to my inquiry.

This paragraph is for those unfamiliar with this problem. Land Rover includes a super lock function in most of their models. Superlock mode has several features; one of witch is disabling the doors from being opened from inside a super locked vehicle. As the door actuators with their solenoid (motor) age and fail there is no safeguard from the doors becoming permanently super locked. When a door becomes permanently super locked there is no inexpensive fix, as the actuator has to be broken out and replaced. The problem is often intermittent before total failure with doors requiring several unlock attempts to unsuperlock or being stuck super locked for days or weeks then suddenly working again for a while.

The solution assuming you do not want to replace several hundred dollars worth of actuators is to disable the super lock function at the first sign of trouble. If you trust the dealer you can have them disable super locking of the doors through programming, but then what if it some how gets turned back on through a reset to factory defaults operation or whatever and months or years later you have a problem. The best and least expensive solution: cut the wires.

The BCEM (Body Control Electric Module) controls nearly everything electrical and electronic in the vehicle. In my 1996 Range Rover (USA) the BCEM is located under the front passenger seat. The wires controlling the super lock for the rear doors can be cut at the BCEM. The wires controlling the super lock for the front doors are located on the left (Z243) and right (Z244) “door out stations” (circuit box) inside each door and can be cut there.

A review of the circuit diagram shows that color code OK is the wire to cut to disable the super lock function at all four locations. OK means orange with pink stripe and is used to control the super lock function in the doors. Of note is the fact that there are also KO wires, pink with orange stripes on the same connectors (at the BCEM) so pay attention to the pin position to verify you have the correct wire. It is important to insulate both ends of the cut wires as the circuit functions by reversing the current for lock/unlock operation; that means both cut ends can cause a short.

I waited until all my doors decided to unlock before I disabled the super lock for all four doors at the same time. If you have a door stuck in super lock, you can disable the other doors then wait to see if the door stuck in super lock mode decides to open later. I had one door stuck super locked all winter that opened on a warm day and another door that was locked for three months then sudden opened one day, long after I had given up on it, when another person tried the door. Just kept trying the handle.

Step by step for a 1996 Land Rover:

To disable super lock for the rear doors:

To access the BCEM:
First remove the seat trim panel: remove the fuse cover on the side of the front passenger seat, remove the small screw, pry out the two plugs on the same side of the panel (one near the front corner and one near the rear, possibly obscured by the pillar and the third plug on the front side by the console, set the seat trim panel aside.
Second remove the seat: move the seat to a mid position and remove the front two bolts, remove the rear two bolts, note how the two rear rubber trim pieces just slide over the flange of the seat rail, lift the seat up and to the rear, use a 12” (30cm) piece of wood under the seat to tilt it back (easier) OR disconnect the electrical connections to the seat and remove the seat from the from the vehicle.
Third remove the two small screws from the rear passenger air duct over the BCEM, remove the section of air duct covering the BCEM. Now you can access the connectors to the BCEM.

It is easier to unplug the connectors to cut and insulate the wire ends then plug the connectors back it.

Cut the OK (orange with pink stripe) wire connected to Pin 6 on connector C325, located at the far left on the front of the BCEM, to disable super lock for the right rear door.

Cut the OK (orange with pink stripe) wire connected to Pin 15 on connector C361, located on the right (console) side of the BCEM closest to the front, to disable super lock for the left rear door.

This completes the process for disabling super lock for the rear doors; reinstall everything.

Do disable super lock for each front door:

First pull off the cheater panel at the front of the door located inside opposite the door mirror, disconnect the speaker cable, remover the screw that holds the door panel on.
Second remove the screw from the trim piece by under the door latch handle, remove the door latch handle trim piece.
Third remove the two screws that pass through the door handle, note the angle of your screwdriver to ease reinstallation, the loosened screws may remain stuck inside the door handle.
Forth you can try lifting up on the door to remove the panel, BUT it is more likely you will have to work around the door prying out the fifteen or so push in fasteners near the edges, when the door panel is free you will need to disconnect another speaker that has a short cable so take care not to drop the panel.
Fifth at this point it is a good idea to pry out any of the push in fasteners still in the door, clip all the fasteners to the plastic button studs on the door, turn all the fasteners so the notch faces the top of the panel, this will allow the panel to possibly lift off next time.

Sixth to disable the super lock cut the OK (orange with pink stripe) on pin 8 of connector C758R (right door) or C758L (left door). Connector C758_ is the forward most connector on the right or left “front door out station” respectively, pin 8 is the end pin. After cutting insulate the wire ends.

Seven to reinstall the panel check that all push in fasteners are in place with the notch facing up, reconnect the speaker cable, start the fasteners partway into their mounting holes beginning at the corner by the mirror and working crossed the top counter clockwise around the door, when all fasteners are started work around the door again hitting the panel firmly in place with your palm.

Eight reinstall the two screws through the door handle, reinstall the door latch trim piece and small screw, reinstall the screw at the upper front corner, reconnect the speaker cable and snap the front upper trim piece back in place.

Repeat for other door.

Total time for all four doors an hour our two, perhaps less if you are familiar with seat removal and/or have removed a door panel before.