hi how are all of you. I have 95 range rover classic that refuses to run. first of all it will not start without the help of starting fluid. i found out that one of spark plug wires was bad so during prior starting attempts it was trying to start on 7 cylinders. it actually ran but it would cut off if i let go of the gas pedal. now that i have added a new set of wires it will not idle on all 8 cylinders. it just turns on and chokes right out. there is a heavy smell of fuel after 2 or 3 cranking attempts. i have spark and fuel and air. the only other thing is that i am getting a code 14 fuel injection coolant temperature sensor if i remember correctly. i am at a complete loss now

 

fixed it it was just a ignition timing problem. now there is symbol right at the bottom of the instrument cluster it has line with a hump and what looks like a wheel under it. it just keeps blinking

 

read the owners manual for description of the warning light

 

Unfortuantely for you your catalytic converters are most likely shot now too. Dumping lots of raw fuel into them over an extended period of time degrades the internals and the chemical reaction process to convert HC's is dramatically reduced. IF you have emissions testing in your area that alone could cause test failure. Just something to consider...

Glad you got it running. Is that light at the bottom of the cluster in the center between the tach and speedo? That's your air suspension ligh if so...... good luck with that mess.

 

finally got her well enough to take a spin around the block today and more problems ensued. she revs fine at a stand still but under load she will not go if pressed hard. i can hear a really bad misfire. shes running so rich she left a black mark from the exhaust in the driveway. i checked battery voltage to see where the alternator was at and got 13.69 volts. sounds a little low to me i could swear its supposed to be at least 14.1. i suspect my uncle got the cheapest alt he could find not worrying about output. found a smoking 02 sensor and a blown powersteering hose. i have my work cut out for me. i swear if my uncle hires another @#$&&! mobile mechanic ill kill him. this is no way to welcome me home from the military. anybody have any ideas? thanks for the info on the warning light. ill tackle that the minute i get the engine running correctly. should be no different than a lmtv's air suspension. hopefully.

 

well i found the powersteering leak. looks like the block melted a hose and caused a small hole that springs a big leak.i am starting to suspect a timing problem so i am in the process of breaking everything down. last thing i have to do now is take off the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. i suspect that the chain has gotten old and has slipped a tooth. ill just have my uncle change out the gaskets for the wp and the tc since he wants everything done right. even if no one replies to this thread i am going to try to keep it going so it will pop up in search for people who incur some of these problems in the future.

 

Well journey through this range rovers engine bay has been fun. I found out that the timing chain was looser than a 50yr old pornstar. I also found coolant in two cylinders (new head gaskets), a loose alternator, and many stripped bolts from whoever did work on this truck before me. needless to say I have had fun (sarcasm by the way). Everything is back together and it started up immediately no hestitation at all. but the idle is still horrible. When it starts it jumps to 2k and then hangs there for a sec then drops to a little above a stall. anyone have any ideas.

 

Have any of the sensors been replaced? The single most important input signal for the EFI ECM is the signal from the O2's. That alone will throw off your air:fuel mix at various times. Replace those for about $200 for the pair and you will at least have a solid baseline to work from - Part #NTK 25016 is what you want.

After that your MAF (clean it by spraying when it is cold with MAF cleaner in the little port off to the side of the main bore), engine coolant temp, Fuel temp, and make sure the IACV is functioning properly... plenty of "search" info can be found on that IACV. Some say DO NOT REMOVE THE CONE from the stepper motor housing... Scary Doom and gloom ..... I have pulled them apart (often) and have never broken one or thrown it out of spec. You just have to be careful and know what you are doing. In fact if you unscrew the IACV from its plenum seat and turn the engine on it will try to close (extend) all the way and pop the cone out all by itself.

Also make sure your Distributor Vacuum Advance is functioning and also just check for any leaks between the MAF and the plenum then all around the plenum seal. ANY un metered air entering the intake will throw off your ECM's ability to trim the IACV in order to maintain the 700 rpm is shoots for.