Looking for certified RR Sport but my mechanic said dont
#1
Looking for certified RR Sport but my mechanic said dont
Hi,
I have been looking for a certified sport but my mechanic keeps telling me not to.
I have a very good relationship with my mechanic and he is not giving me good feelings toward my future purchase. He is very honest. Yes, a honest mechanic does exist.
He tells me that I can purchase the RR sport but he will be make a lot of money off me. Two brakes alone, he said, are around $700 and expect to them often. In general the parts and labor on the RR Sport are very expensive.
What are your thoughts
I have been looking for a certified sport but my mechanic keeps telling me not to.
I have a very good relationship with my mechanic and he is not giving me good feelings toward my future purchase. He is very honest. Yes, a honest mechanic does exist.
He tells me that I can purchase the RR sport but he will be make a lot of money off me. Two brakes alone, he said, are around $700 and expect to them often. In general the parts and labor on the RR Sport are very expensive.
What are your thoughts
#2
No pain , no gain. I bought my Rover with 23K and it needed brakes. Replaced pads only for $200 and now have 25K on pads and not done yet. Depends on how you drive it. Check the vehicle yourself or have that particular mechanic pre-check. DO NOT TRUST dealer's pre-check, as if anything is in tolerance it will be checked OK. Independently check things first so you know how much more you might have to spend. It is all in how much maintenance was kept up and how much abuse previous owner gave the vehicle.
#4
Forget tolerance. Try to get the brakes and rotors replaced as part of the purchase and be prepared to walk away if you don't get it. Secondly, make sure the CPO warranty period is at least one year so that you have time to have everything replaced under warranty. I've had my 2010 RRS S/C since Oct 2014 and I am already close to $20,000.00 CDN in warranty work. Trust me, you WILL want this warranty so make sure you buy from an LR dealership.
#6
Supercharger
Tensioner pulleys
Idler pulleys
Fan coupling/clutch
Front wheel bearings both sides
Rear toe link
Sway bar bushings
Control arms both sides
Compressor
And AAAALLLLLL the labor costs PLUS loaner fees
Nothing out of pocket and considering I put 25k down at the time of purchase, this CPO warranty has more than paid for itself 10 times over. This is why you need it.
Tensioner pulleys
Idler pulleys
Fan coupling/clutch
Front wheel bearings both sides
Rear toe link
Sway bar bushings
Control arms both sides
Compressor
And AAAALLLLLL the labor costs PLUS loaner fees
Nothing out of pocket and considering I put 25k down at the time of purchase, this CPO warranty has more than paid for itself 10 times over. This is why you need it.
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Pardue (08-28-2015)
#7
I recently bought a 2013 RRSSC after a LOT of research. While it's too early for me to tell personally, from what I've read, it appears that the MY2013 is one of the most reliable models (probably because it's the last of the series).
For example, the 2010-2012 models had the timing chain guide design issue, however this appears to be fixed for the MY2013 (according to the TSB on the topic). The supercharger idler pulley can go along with water pump (which dies I think on all LR3, LR4 and RRS models). Otherwise it appears to be pretty good.
So I think if you're going to go for one, try getting a MY2013.
For example, the 2010-2012 models had the timing chain guide design issue, however this appears to be fixed for the MY2013 (according to the TSB on the topic). The supercharger idler pulley can go along with water pump (which dies I think on all LR3, LR4 and RRS models). Otherwise it appears to be pretty good.
So I think if you're going to go for one, try getting a MY2013.
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