Today I tried superlocking the vehicle by turning the key to lock position twice within 1 sec diff and it worked fine so the locking and unlocking signal work fine but how to check the disarm signal

 

Time, temperature, coincidence?... there are both a lot of explanations, and no explanation sometimes.

 

question I tried leaving the window half down in my truck and locked the door with the key, the widows did not got up. Does this mean I have some type of latch problem that I don't know about?

 

Just tried that on my 2000 P38 and have the same results. No other locking problems, so I'll just remember to roll the windows up before I lock it. I see this as normal because of how many times have I rolled the driver's window down so my car wouldn't "accidentally" lock me out.

 

Start simple and work your way in. Put a fresh battery in your key fob and resync it to your car. The new key fob and key set I recently bought from the dealer in the US synced itself on the drive home, you can test it while it is in the ignition. If the problem persists I would suspect the switch that is activated by the door locks movement is dirty or going bad. Temperature and moisture can affect conductivity of a marginal electrical connection. Start with looking for corrosion at the connections and using some contact cleaner spray on the switch. While the door panel is open use your voltmeter and measure voltages. Hard rubber erasers and kitchen scotchbrite pads are good mild abrasives to clean contacts with and rinse with contact cleaner or rubbing alcohol on cotton swabs. Avoid using steel wool if you can because you don't want to scrap the contact plating off if you can avoid it.

To simulate cold weather on a switch you can use a can of Dustoff (air duster for computer stuff) turn the can upside down and spray the liquid on the switch. Exercise the switches while cold to see if you can duplicate your thermal symptoms.