This is on my old 96 P38. 4.6 HSE.

About a month ago she was driving it while her Sport was being serviced. Car died on her, wouldn't turn over. Threw a alternator fault code. By the time wrecker arrived, would start. Had it hauled to Rover anyway where for 2 weeks it started and ran fine - they found no problems. Battery checked okay, so did alternator. I had them hang on to it and they put about 1000 miles on it as a parts and running car which didn't bother me since we didn't need it back. They returned it to us last week as "we found nothing wrong."

Three days later she takes it to the store and of course when it's filled with groceries in 90 degree heat won't start again. Get it towed to local repair guy (who's had his hands on this vehicle since we owned it for everything not done by the dealer). He couldn't get it to turn over either. When jumping around the starter it does crank, but not fire.

Did a few basic BECM checks with the locks and all that and want to believe it is not the BECM. Had a rover diagnostics guy come and he thinks problem is ECU (the unit behind the battery, under the hood). Ordered and just got one from roversland. It's installed, but still no crank or fire.

It's my understanding that there is some "immobilzation code" or something needed as part of a programming process for the ECU. Is this correct? Does this have to be, or can it only be done by the dealer?

One guy is telling me he thinks it's BECM related, another thinks the ECU. Anyone with experience in this headache area I would appreciate your thoughts or advice.

Thanks,

Mike

 

One simple thing I could suggest is the starter selonoid or relay or possibly just a bad connection on one of the big wires coming from the battery.

 

We (think) we've been through starter, relays, checking wiring, etc. When we jump around the starter we get crank, but no start - so that alone I think eliminate solenoid. We've checked and replaced relay. The ECU (so I am told) - the unit behind the battery under the hood, provides the fire to the injectors, is this correct? We're getting no turnover. Now with the replacement ECU we of course get nothing, but I am told that is likely to happen and I need this special programming so some security / immobilization code reads the code on the car. Anyone have experience in this area? What I don't want to do is have the thing towed back to the dealer for some special, likely overpriced programming on a certain computer and have it not work because we've missed something else.

A great time for LRScott or "Disco"Mike Jacobs to chime in here...

Thanks.

 

As far as I know the BECM needs to be programmed to your truck. That's what my Rover Mech to me. I could be wrong here. I would call LR and ask them about your new/used BECM

 

It's the ECU, the computer module behind the battery compartment under the hood that we've ordered and replaced. Short of not learning any hints or tricks here, I guess I am going to have a wrecker pick it up and take it to a dealer. Supposedly needs to be programmed on the car so security codes, etc. are correct. I was told that some 75-80% of the time you can just R&R this part with no issues, didn't work for us. No crank, no start.

If anyone has changed their ECU, I would LOVE to hear what you did next to get it running.

I have had the BECM replaced before in the past. A nightmare and expensive...hoping it's not related to that, doesn't seem to be - but I will trash the car before I buy yet another overpriced BECM.

 

If your engine turns over when hot or after stalling and it won't start chances are your crank sensor has failed, pretty common.

 

I honestly doubt its your security system. The earliery models (assuming you are in the US) didn't have a tempermental imobizliation system. The first thing I would do, is to check if you are getting fuel or spark. If you are getting neither, that can point to the crank shaft position sensor like mike said. I would DOUBLE check your relays. Not too long ago, HandsomRob had an issue like this and found it to be a fuse with a hair line crack in it that would expand when heated and then disconnect itself.

When the issue starts, see if the rover is getting fuel or spark. This will really help us diagnose it the problem.

 

yes, all the old gems had to have their ecus learned to the vehicle after replacement. In fact a used one works just as well as a new one but both have to be relearned to the vehicle.

Do that and you should start without issue.