Hello All,

I'm looking to purchase a 2004 Disco that has supposed major issues with 113k for $1500. This is my first post but I think I've found the best forum to do it on. I've had 2 late 90's discoverys that I loved but didn't own long enough to have to work on them besides an alternator and brakes on the first one. I love these trucks and have since the first time seeing one and thinking "what the heck is that thing". After searching AND searching I can find nothing relating. I'm fairly inclined but feel like a total idiot here with this question and just moving to Lansing Michigan don't have a good mechanic or buddy to even look at it with me and bounce ideas off from. With all that said, here goes something....

The woman who had this truck owned it for 2yrs and had Zero problems with the truck and bought it just after its 60k service with 70k on it. She bought a new convertable 6mos ago and put the truck out by the road asking 5k for it. It sat for 6mos without being started once. Finally someone came to test drive it and after driving 5mi it started "smoking" so she pulled over turned it off right away. It was towed to the closest "muffler shop" to her house. They looked at it and said it had a "cracked block" and needed a new engine that would cost 5k+. So here we are. I have a friend who lives close that knows nothing about cars go look at it. I had them check the oit (no foaming or antifreeze in it) and check the anifreeze (no oil in it). Here is where it gets interesting... He started the truck and it started right up with me on the phone. I told him to watch the temp gauge and if it goes past the middle to shut it off right away. So, after 20min and catching up on the last 10yrs I've been gone the truck is running smooth with no "smoke" and the temp gauge perfectly in the middle and not a single warning dash lights for anything! So I told him to drive it around the parking lot. When he put it in gear NOTHING as in it only creeped forward a couple inches but would not drive. He mentioned the the slight rattle noise quited a bit with it in gear but returned when he put it back in park. I told him to try reverse 1/2/3 and nothing in any of the gears. He got out of it and looked under it and there was a large pool of RED fluid that I assume would be tranny fluid. It was coming from the middle of the truck also behind the engine. I told him thanks and now owe him a 12pack.haha Here is where I'm completely stumped!?! What the heck could tranny fluid have to do with a cracked block?

I called lehe woman back who's selling it and asked her if she knew if the previous owner had any problems with the truck and she said she (both women no offense) told her they just replaced the "joint" because it went bad and causes the "shaft" to flop around and damaged something else but didn't know what but it was fixed well enough for her to put 50k miles on it in the last few years.

So, here we are. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated if you have any additional questions that I may help please let me know and I can try to ask her. Would or could the drive shaft crack or damage the engine block and if so could or would that cause or explain the transmission fluid to leak at suck a rate. It looked like a quart of fluid leaked out on the ground. Thanks again and I look forward to all the replies. Hopefully this works out since the truck is in great shape and the price is right. My luck has been so bad lately I'm due for some good news. It sounds to me like the shop is trying to take her for a ride and I don't know how a cracked block would not cause the motor to overheat or smoke. Bothe the coolant and oil where at the proper levels and the correct colors.

Thanks again. Sorry for such a long message. Austin

 

Sounds like at some point the front drive shaft let go and blew a hole in the transmission, as is custom.

Instead of replacing the transmission, it was probably just patched. Looks like that patch finally failed.

On the cracked block, you should really perform what's called a Hydrocarbon (HC) test on the coolant in the reservoir to be sure. A positive test means that combustion gases are migrating into the coolant, a sure sign of a cracked block (usually behind a sleeve).

 

Wow a reply already, that's great! Where can I get such a test done? Thank you for the quick reply.

 

That's a whole lot of money for a truck with that much wrong with it.
The shop may have simplified their explanation and just said "cracked block" instead of "hole in the transmission." Possibly. But whether it's a cracked block or a cracked transmission I would pass on this -- you should be able to find a decent running truck for the same price or a fraction more. If you're willing to travel they come up on this forum all the time.

 

Are we sure it isn't just a leak at a transmission seal or one of the lines?

No, cracked block is ridiculous. Transmission fluid doesn't pass through the engine. It starts at the transmission cooler, goes back to the transmission in a hard line that passes on the driver side of the engine, into the transmission, into the torque converter, and back to the transmission cooler. Or close to that. The torque converter is inside the large bell housing at the back of the engine.

It could he a simple seal or o ring. I'd fill it with transmission fluid and see where it is coming from.

 

There could be serious problems with the block too. From all of the posts that I have read, a failed block (Rover V8) will not show the symptoms at idle. The coolant system usually starts to pressurize from the exhaust after 10 mins or more of actual driving. The blocks that crack or have a cylinder sleeve that moved will idle all day but almost immediately pressurizes and goes to **** under a load. I agree with RacerX; it is almost 99.9% certain that the driveshaft broke up front and catastrophically damaged the transmission. Someone patched it before, and now that has failed. I would run away from this one mainly because of the fact you will have to replace the transmission before you can even get a good test drive on it to recreate the "smoking" symptoms from before. There are too many discos on the market to get involved with a catastrophe like this. There is no doubt that this engine was run hotter than normal for who knows how long and a cracked cylinder or shifted cylinder sleeve doesn't leave any tell-tale signs in regards to coolant or engine oil color/consistency. You will have to put the truck through the paces under load with a secondary computer or gauge that will give you hard number for coolant temp. The dash cluster temp gauge will not move until coolant temps reach at least 240 degrees; 40 degrees higher than you would ever want the temp to get.

 

Unless it comes with $5k cash I would pass unless you are a seasoned wrench. I have bought 2 fixer upper D2's now and the money never works in my favor, I did come close to breaking even on the first one, my current one is a keeper and I really don't care about expenses and going all in on it.

My current 03 was bought for a steal and had a supposedly rebuilt motor, within 200 miles the motor was turning its oil into milkshakes and drinking coolant like an alcoholic at an open bar. I should have walked as it didn't give me warm fuzzy feelings on the test drive, but the frame and underside is literally the cleanest D2 I have ever seen so I bought it. Now 3 months in it has a fully rebuilt red block 4.6 with new everything and I just tripled my investment. Today I ordered new tires and still need to get a lift, winch, and steel front bumper. When I am all done I will have a $12k Discovery worth $6k on a good day. Again, this is going to be a keeper so going in to the rebuild I wanted reliability above all else. I do most of my work so that helps too.

At this point I am almost certain all the Rover 4.0 and 4.6's are junk and the question is when will they blow, not if they will blow. I really like the extra power of the 4.6. Take your time hunting for a better deal and don't be afraid to travel to get the right one. Just stay away from rust as there are clean ones out there, you just have to be willing to wait.

 

The front drive shaft went and cracked the block. I picked it up for $1000 because it runs great and I've found many transmissions for under $500.

New question is should I rebuild the new one that will be replacing the cracked one? Also, is there anything else that should be addressed wile I'm having the transmission replaced? Thanks again everyone!

 

Concerning the replacement: if under 125K I would do these steps and just go with it. Should be able to find one closer to $250-300 max. $500 is way high unless it has under 60K on it.
Remove and inspect the ouput shaft. If it's marred from the old oil seal, it will need to be replaced. Oil seal is replaced, regardless. New filter and Dex3-rated fluid. Do a reseal/re gasket of the Tcase as well; RovahFarm and Roverware both have kits for low price. Front driveshaft should have 3 zerk fittings to be greased regularly. If not, rebuild/replace. Replace rubber coupler and front Ujoint of rear DS.