wheelgarage: yes i checked the rave but did not see any real diagnostic section. I will change the vacuum line at regulator just to be safe. thanks for trying to help this forum has a great amount of good people with the drive to help.

spike555: sorry knock sensors were changed about two years ago and i have upgraded to 91 octane fuel. Do you know of the ohm range of the coolant temp sensor when cold then hot? Or any way to check for proper functioning. Air filter is a k&n with i clean regularly. I will also hook up the scanner and watch o2 sensors and temp.

savannah buzz: i have tons of extra rubber hose in the garage all different sizes too. LOL

Thanks to everyone i will do some more poking and checking and keep you all up to speed on what i find.

 

Now the vital information comes to light.
You probably need a new MAF, the oil from the K&N gets on your MAF and kills it.
Again, using a live data OBDII scanner watch the coolant temp as well as the MAF readings and O2 readings.

 

Ripped from the RAVE for the engine coolant temp sensor:

 

i will run the scanner and see what happens, then lettruck cool and clean maf sensor and run scanner again to note if any difference. i really do appreciate all the help. i will post my findings in the next couple of days.

 

when cleaning the m a f do that when engine stone cold and don't turn ignition key. the sensor heats internally to 350 plus degrees in a tiny spot, and cold spray can kill a hot sensor

 

i too still run a k&n filter with no issues what so ever. you will need to replace those cats. they are vital to OBDII engines. if you are running autolites in your truck you will have this issue. i ran autolights in my truck and after 1k miles they where completely burnt out and not functioning properly. running way way way rich. also like very one else says those o2 sensors can cause this same thing. check them to make sure. you said you just replaced them. you could have bought a faulty o2 sensor and it just failed again.

 

Scharfire....off the subject...just read your sig.....

320k on a rotary engine!!!! WOW.....I never go past 60k on any one mine.....thou bigger turbo's do accelerate the wear process....lol.

 

no auto lights im using champion plugs.

ok cleaned maf sensor and wow was screen dirty, cleaned air filter but did not oil it, also unpluged ecu and cleaned with electronics cleaner, the small black plug on ecu had one post on the wire harness side corroded but it cleaned up real good. truck runs better already. but wednesday will be the true test for a nice long ride will keep everyone posted on how it makes the trip.
THANKS AGAIN to all who gave their input. I REALLY LOVE this forum
i also found my power steering hose leaking and repaired that.

 

As far as the cats go, what is some input on universal cats? I have never had any problems with them on other vehicles but it seems my disco is a bit stubborn with some brand parts.

 

ya we got some life out of that car. but there isn't 320k on the motor. well there is but there was a rebuild at 140k. but this girl was an na no turbo's for me. i just blew a water jacket seal about a year ago and has been sitting ever since. im putting in a V8 this go around. i love my wankle engines but way way way to much maintenance to keep it running properly. the major thing i did was put an external oil container just for the apex seals. if you didn't know they pull oil from the pan and inject it in to the rotor to keep apex seals from rotting. so mine pulled clean oil. also you have to give them a 10k rev everytime you shut them down or carbon will build up in there and destroy that engine.