98 Struggling to start after rebuild
Baja
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 318
From: Boston Strong
you have to soak the new lifters in oil and I pump them with a push rod to get oil in them.
it should tell you something about that in the RAVE.
Hydraulic lifters are like (for lack of a better term) are little chambers filled with oil, they cushion the impact of the push rod on the rocker. if they are not filled with oil they are being used as solid lifters and are betting themselves to death.
they will also to a point take up slack in your cam shaft to rocker arm length.
I think you should go threw the rave,
but unfortunately, i think i see the intakes and valve covers being removed in your near future.
hopefully someone more knowledgeable can jump in and offer some suggestion also.
it should tell you something about that in the RAVE.
Hydraulic lifters are like (for lack of a better term) are little chambers filled with oil, they cushion the impact of the push rod on the rocker. if they are not filled with oil they are being used as solid lifters and are betting themselves to death.
they will also to a point take up slack in your cam shaft to rocker arm length.
I think you should go threw the rave,
but unfortunately, i think i see the intakes and valve covers being removed in your near future.
hopefully someone more knowledgeable can jump in and offer some suggestion also.
Last edited by drowssap; Jan 28, 2016 at 07:26 AM.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,935
Likes: 189
From: Coastal Georgia
With it running it has an "odd to me" grinding/rubbing noise around the motor.
It's been 3 years since I've heard this thing run, so maybe this is normal...
Sounds like a rebuilt engine with exhaust leak(s) firing up to me. You have verified you have OP. Tappets will pump-up/fill if allowed to run a bit. Preferred method is to pre-fill but they should be OK without doing, older manual suggested simply soaking in oil. Don't see a reason to start tearing an engine apart until you've given it a chance.
From older RRC manual:
Before fitting the tappets immerse them in clean engine oil to reduce tappet noise when the engine is first started after the overhaul.
It should be noted that tappet noise can be
expected on initial starting up after an overhaul due to oil drainage from the tappet assemblies or indeed if the vehicle has been standing over a very long period. If excessive noise should be apparent after an overhaul,
the engine should be run at approximately 2,500 revlmin for a few minutes (subject to the following caution), when the noise should be eliminated.
It should be noted that tappet noise can be
expected on initial starting up after an overhaul due to oil drainage from the tappet assemblies or indeed if the vehicle has been standing over a very long period. If excessive noise should be apparent after an overhaul,
the engine should be run at approximately 2,500 revlmin for a few minutes (subject to the following caution), when the noise should be eliminated.
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 340
Likes: 28
From: Central Texas
drowssap- Thank you again for the reply. I just read over the entire overhaul manual. Something I wish I had done before, but sadly I relied on the shop to take care of all of that. Hopefully they did.
number9- Thank you also for jumping in to this and hopefully helping me resolve my issues. I did forget to post another video, so I just went and took one (currently uploading). In the video I did an over/under of the motor and a look at the gauges while running.
If you notice at about 4 minutes, it starts to tap/knock so it looks like I'll be doing some research for the rest of the night to read other peoples issues and solutions.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JTeErhfWFDs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Oil pressure remained at 30psi throughout. I shut down the motor shortly after the tapping to avoid possible damage.
ONLY GOOD NEWS: It appears my high idle has been fixed.
number9- Thank you also for jumping in to this and hopefully helping me resolve my issues. I did forget to post another video, so I just went and took one (currently uploading). In the video I did an over/under of the motor and a look at the gauges while running.
If you notice at about 4 minutes, it starts to tap/knock so it looks like I'll be doing some research for the rest of the night to read other peoples issues and solutions.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JTeErhfWFDs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Oil pressure remained at 30psi throughout. I shut down the motor shortly after the tapping to avoid possible damage.
ONLY GOOD NEWS: It appears my high idle has been fixed.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,935
Likes: 189
From: Coastal Georgia
On new video I hear a clanging noise that seems to come and go, is that what your major concern is? Hard to tell much at that engine speed. At least it doesn't sound like its ready to self-destruct.
At normal idle it should be easier to hear odd noises and detect their location.
About the OP, it would be nice to have higher but appears to be within specs for a 4.0 and you're also not checking at 2,400.
At normal idle it should be easier to hear odd noises and detect their location.
About the OP, it would be nice to have higher but appears to be within specs for a 4.0 and you're also not checking at 2,400.
Oil pressure ...... 2.11 to 2.81 kg/cm2 (30 to 40 psi) at 2400 rev/min with engine warm
Baja
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 318
From: Boston Strong
Sounds a little different with oil pressure.
On new video I hear a clanging noise that seems to come and go, is that what your major concern is? Hard to tell much at that engine speed. At least it doesn't sound like its ready to self-destruct.
At normal idle it should be easier to hear odd noises and detect their location.
About the OP, it would be nice to have higher but appears to be within specs for a 4.0 and you're also not checking at 2,400.
At normal idle it should be easier to hear odd noises and detect their location.
About the OP, it would be nice to have higher but appears to be within specs for a 4.0 and you're also not checking at 2,400.
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 340
Likes: 28
From: Central Texas
Oil pressure never changed even with revving to 2500 or even 3k. Status at 30psi.
I did notice that you cannot hear the whine that I can in person. However, my biggest concern is that tapping when warm. I know you quoted possible tapping on startup but that got louder and started well in to startup
I did notice that you cannot hear the whine that I can in person. However, my biggest concern is that tapping when warm. I know you quoted possible tapping on startup but that got louder and started well in to startup
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 340
Likes: 28
From: Central Texas
Video is uploading to YouTube, I'll post it when finished.
I had a buddy check the motor out with me. Here is our consensus on the tap noise once warm. Using a stethoscope, we narrowed it down to the valve train on the passenger side. My buddy thinks it's something in the rocker shaft.
When I picked up the motor from the engine shop, all he told me was that it was all set to run and handed me a box of "spare parts". Included in that box was two old valve springs. I'm thinking he replaced a couple springs and never rechecked the clearance, which is causing the tap at warm. Thoughts?
I just read the Rave overhaul again and there isn't any info on checking clearance or if there are shims or not.
Besides that, I'm still holding 30 psi consistently through the rom range and my rpms won't drop below 1150. It's like my high idle doesn't know if it's still there or not...
Video is 10 minutes long. Tap starts just before 4 minutes
**Also good news, I just ran it with the passenger valve cover off and I have verified the rockers are receiving oil. My buddies logic is that 30 psi across the board is better than 10 psi hot idle and within range of 40 psi cold idle and cold hot 2k rpm. Similar to what number9 has been saying.
I had a buddy check the motor out with me. Here is our consensus on the tap noise once warm. Using a stethoscope, we narrowed it down to the valve train on the passenger side. My buddy thinks it's something in the rocker shaft.
When I picked up the motor from the engine shop, all he told me was that it was all set to run and handed me a box of "spare parts". Included in that box was two old valve springs. I'm thinking he replaced a couple springs and never rechecked the clearance, which is causing the tap at warm. Thoughts?
I just read the Rave overhaul again and there isn't any info on checking clearance or if there are shims or not.
Besides that, I'm still holding 30 psi consistently through the rom range and my rpms won't drop below 1150. It's like my high idle doesn't know if it's still there or not...
Video is 10 minutes long. Tap starts just before 4 minutes
**Also good news, I just ran it with the passenger valve cover off and I have verified the rockers are receiving oil. My buddies logic is that 30 psi across the board is better than 10 psi hot idle and within range of 40 psi cold idle and cold hot 2k rpm. Similar to what number9 has been saying.
Last edited by RedRovin'; Jan 29, 2016 at 07:02 PM.
