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Battery Drain Issue

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  #11  
Old 10-19-2010, 07:41 AM
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Sounds like you are at least getting somewhere. Tracing wiring problems is one of the most time consuming repairs, but the "Ah-ha!" moment when you find the problem makes the time worth while.
 
  #12  
Old 10-19-2010, 06:46 PM
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I saw one article in the RN magazine from their tech guy about a Defender that had an unusual problem, it turned out that one of the factory splices internal to the bundle was intermittently going open circuit when it would hit a big bump or vibrate on the highway. I forget what circuit it was, but root cause was one of the splices had gone bad. Hours of t/s to track it down.
 
  #13  
Old 10-24-2010, 03:29 PM
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Well, I took the lazy man's route & decided to wire up a remote battery cut off switch. No more draw while sitting!

These come with every new Jaguar from the factory. I wired it up with a small pig-tail harness I made.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37974521@N03/5111340921/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37974521@N03/5111340921/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/37974521@N03/, on Flickr

Flicking the switch grounds the relay, allowing current to flow. I'm going to mount the switch in the hole next to the mirror.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37974521@N03/5111344557/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37974521@N03/5111344557/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/37974521@N03/, on Flickr

 
  #14  
Old 10-24-2010, 04:03 PM
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This is a mistake as well as the lazy way out cause now you are going to be draining your ECU of it memory, every might and the truck, depending on the year and model, will need to do a lot of relearning and some adaptive memory work every time your start your engine. Also at some point your radio battery will then fail and your will need to recode the radio every morning.
 
  #15  
Old 10-24-2010, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
This is a mistake as well as the lazy way out cause now you are going to be draining your ECU of it memory, every might and the truck, depending on the year and model, will need to do a lot of relearning and some adaptive memory work every time your start your engine. Also at some point your radio battery will then fail and your will need to recode the radio every morning.
94 doesn't need too much adaptation when power is lost. Radio doesn't matter because all I have right now is a hole in the dash.

I believe I already said I took the lazy way out.

Right now I just need a vehicle that cranks every time. When I want to start tearing apart the engine wiring harness I'll find the true cause of the draw.
 
  #16  
Old 10-25-2010, 08:45 AM
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Haha I was having a similar issue, although I think it was related to my subwoofer install and some other electronics (the GPS charger, etc.. just little stuff) but this truck is my "utility" vehicle so I really need to rely on it! Nothing sucks more than running out to go to work and hearing "click-click-click"!

Sooo I hopped on google and bought a 12-watt weather-sealed solar panel and an auto 12v solar charge controller, never had another problem since (except when I went out of town for 2 weeks and parked it in my garage since I took the mustang, it was dead when I got back so that validated the solar panels functionality!)

Even with 20% tint (aka only 20% of available light is ever getting into the car/solar panel which just sits on the subs in the back) the thing STILL shows "sun" on the charge controller indicating it's charging.

I'm sure if I put the panel on the roof it would make for a killer tailgate car

Here you go..
http://www.buy.com/prod/hqrp-12-watt...213453935.html
http://www.buy.com/prod/hqrp-solar-p...217183627.html
$100 for both - can't beat that! It's always nice to open up the tailgate and see the battery and charging indicators green
 
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